| Author | Message | ||
     Chevysolid |
Well, I did it.... Even after my friend told me not to tighten the header to tight. I really didn't think I tightened it that tight but.... The vibration caused it to snap.... It is the top bolt on the rear cylinder of my X1.... What would be the best way to fix it. I do have a direct line of vision to it.. so could I extract it and then put a new bolt in as it sits..( Is the hole threaded??) Or do I have to pull the head?? Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.... Thanks Adam | ||
| Bomber |
you CAN drill em out, tap the hole, and install a new one (that's a tough position to get o, but it's doable) Jim's has a drilling guide to make sure your drill doesn't go astray, and I would highly recomment using it use new, SHARP drills, go slow, go up 1/32 at a time -- easyouts usually don't | ||
| Bluem2 |
Chevy, I just did this on a 2000 M2, and I think it is the same bolt (rear, top). I used Jim's guide (from American Sport Bike), a helicoil kit, and a long drill bit from McMaster-Carr in a weird diameter for the helicoil. The drill bit length (12" I think) was necessary for the working position of the head on the bike. It seems to be working well. There are lots of posts around here on this subject, but they all say not to try the easy out. Good luck, Jack | ||
| Sloppy |
The problem with the easy out is that they are brittle and if they snap, you'll have a hardened tool steel (not drillable) to remove. Use the Jim's guide. Your local shop may have one you can rent. Get a Heli-Coil kit as well. | ||
| Oldog |
if you drill up to tap size re taping the hole to original size will be ok, I would hesitate to helicoil unless you miss center and ruin the threaded hole in the head. definately use the jims guide if available | ||
| Aaomy |
if possible use a left hand drill.. some times a left hand drill will "bite" in the metal and twist the stud right out for you.. better to try to drill and tap and then go to heli coil if some thing goes wrong, rather than starting with heli coil and having no place to go.. dont like easy outs either.. just my 2 cents.. aaron | ||
| Chevysolid |
Aaron, That was my thought too... My father in law mentioned that he always wanted a set of left hand bits... Maybe I'll buy him some.. but use them first... Do I need to get like 12 in. ones to line up right?? Second... A Jim's Guide... I am assuming is a tube that helps keep the bit in the middle??? | ||
| Bomber |
Chevy -- zactly -- it's big enough so that it bolts to the remaining stud (which assumes ther is one remaining ;-} ) as for left hand bits, they are great -- no need to scrounge for 12" long ones, though -- a good hardware store will have drill bit extenders you can use -- | ||
| Chevysolid |
The bolt broke off inside the head... So will a Jim's guide still work??? It's about an 1/16 - 1/8 in the head... Good idea on the bit extender... Thanks | ||
| Bomber |
Chevy -- you bet it will -- the guide bolts to the OTHER stud (ther one that's not broke) get lots of drill bits -- go slow -- chew gum -- curse often and creatively | ||
| Bluem2 |
Lots of good advice here. Especially on the cursing. Next time I will definitely try the left hand bits. Hopefully that's never since I upgraded to the newer exhaust mount - another thing you might want to consider while you're doing this job. The newer mount is supposed to prevent the problem. | ||
| Aaomy |
another great prevention tool is a product called stage 8. after you tighten you header bolts to the recommended amount. you install a special retainer and e clip over the nut so it cant move,, more importantly... it keeps you from re tightening the bolts.. aaron | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Just don't go over 8 ft lbs torque and you won't have a problem. Do not use your internally calibrated wrist torque wrench. It's almost always wrong. | ||
| Crashm1 |
Don't use a screw extractor. When it breaks it all becomes a horrible pain in the keister, ask me how I know. I am taking the front head off my bike tomorrow to see if a machine shop can fix my mistake cause I can't instead of beating up bad riders on fast Japanese bikes at a trackday. *@^&&#$%*!!! On the plus side the broken isolator mount bolt came right out of the head, someone appeared to have skipped the red locktite once upon a time. By the way it looks like both failures were caused by the LSL frame sliders. I found some wear marks on the header and slider when I took things apart last night. | ||
| Oldog |
Hey Aaron where do you get "Stage 8" clips I have been fortunate so far, just a thought here but whilst doing a PM perhaps replace the studs every so often as they take lotsa heat and vibes .... | ||
| Chevysolid |
I am still working on this project... haven't had alot of time. Does any one know what the thread is for the part that goes into the head... It is the course thread..... Thanks Adam | ||
| Jackbequick |
5/16" NC or 5/16"-18 TPI. The fine thread would be 5/16"-24 TPI. If there is enough length on the stud, you might try torqueing a nut to specs and then locking that with a second nut. That has worked for me in the past on self loosening exhaust manifold nuts. Jack (Message edited by jackbequick on September 05, 2006) (Message edited by jackbequick on September 05, 2006) | ||
| Chevysolid |
Thanks for the info... I think I've come to the realization that this is a PAIN IN THE ASS!!!! I think a Jim's guide would be handy but I CANNOT afford to spend 80-90 dollars on one. Would anyone be willing to rent me one or want to sell theirs cheap??? Thanks Adam | ||
| Ceejay |
Chev-some have used the flange from the header instead of the jims tool... | ||
| Crashm1 |
Don't use a screw extractor. When it breaks it all becomes a horrible pain in the keister, ask me how I know. I am taking the front head off my bike tomorrow to see if a machine shop can fix my mistake cause I can't instead of beating up bad riders on fast Japanese bikes at a trackday. *@^&&#$%*!!! On the plus side the broken isolator mount bolt came right out of the head, someone appeared to have skipped the red locktite once upon a time. By the way it looks like both failures were caused by the LSL frame sliders. I found some wear marks on the header and slider when I took things apart last night. Update I decided to use this opportunity to update my bike with the full race header and a set of Revolution Performance Stage two heads. I was hoping the race header would get here before Saturday but it don't look like it. The heads are on and the Power Commander I've had lying around for over a year is in and I finally got it to talk to a computer (boy is lugging my desktop out to the garage every couple days for the next week gonna be a drag) It's definitly more better. | ||
| Slinghead |
I have seen this before. If you have access to a tig welder you can burn the easyout out buy turning the tig way up and bring the tungsten out far so you can reach the easyout. Touch the easyout but be warned this is going to burn the easyout fast so watch your eyes. This has worked for me with the head still on the bike. Hope this helps. | ||
| Chevysolid |
So I pulled the head and gave it to my buddy, b/c it was shaping up to be a pain while on the bike.... I told him that we needed to drill and tap. He took it to the Harley shop he works at and the mechanic tried to heat the head and extract the bolt.....and of course he broke of the extractor.... NOW it is sitting at the machine shop... .hopefully they will get it right.... $100.00 for th Jim's guide doesn't sound so bad now, when the shop will probably charge me that... Thanks to everyone for thier input I just hope I don't go through this again..... | ||
| Reepicheep |
On my Cyclone, I spent about $40 on several diamond tipped dremel bits to get the broken screw extractor out of there, then just carefully drilled and retapped the damn thing. It held, but I don't know that I would recommend it, especially as you already have the head off the bike. I did mine all in place. Add me to the "shoulda just bought the Jims Tool" list. Make sure you have the upgraded front exhaust mount, otherwise it will happen again (IMHO). |
