| Author | Message | ||
     Smokinjryan |
ok Guys, I went in to take apart my intake manifold and replace the seals. The Mounting flange on my 99 M2 are made out of a hard rubber or plastic and I found no seals at all!! Hex bolts were all loose also.Think I had a leak??? lol!! Well anyhow are these flanges supposed to be metal? Are the wrong ones on? Anyone have a pic of one. Also just to note I have a Mukuni Carb on the bike it came installed.Thanks | ||
| Patrickh |
My 99 M2 has a CV carb. If we do in fact have the same carb, then you have described the seals well. They are stiff rubber rings which are pinched against the exhaust ports by flanges. If they are "hard" it is because they have not been replaced in a while. I replace mine every 2 or 3 years to avoid leaks. | ||
| Smokinjryan |
I have new seals and have seen the seals. What I dont know is if I have the same flanges. I have a stock manifold but dont know if my flanges are stock. | ||
| Jackbequick |
Here is a snip from the 2000 M2 parts book:  Parts 5 and 6 are metal (aluminum investment castings) and when they are tightened into place they force the rubber seals (part #2) in against the machined surfaces on the intake manifold. Jack | ||
| Smokinjryan |
Thanks Jack, I have hard rubber flanges that just seal up to the intake sort of like the ones mukini sells or drag specialities. They were very loose maybe if I had just tightened them they would have been fine. Has anyone had these aftermarket type intake flanges? like these http://www.dragspecialties.com/fatbook/1723/280/2384709 but one side is slotted and I don't have a clamp on them. Should I just go to the Harley dealership and buy the stock ones?? | ||
| Jackbequick |
I had the stock CV-40 and defer to to the guys that may have used the stuff you have or want to use. Going to a Mikuni 42 seems to be common and popular, there must be good ways to do it. Jack | ||
| Smokinjryan |
well I do have the stock intake..so really no change here. Just wondering if I should buy the stock flanges or just use the ones I had and just make sure they are tight this time. | ||
| Patrickh |
Does the Mikuni carb have a manifold availble for it that is larger than the CV carb manifold which comes stock? If it does I would buy a new manifold for increased air and fuel flow. | ||
| Jackbequick |
"Just wondering if I should buy the stock flanges..." When I pulled mine, the M2 it had 2,300 miles and was 5 years old. The metal plates press the rubber seals down into a recess and also in against the machined area around the manifold. It may have been a heat activated adhesive or just time but the rubber seals had adhered well to both surfaces it looked like a good sealing system. BadWeb consensus is that you should change the seals every three years or so to make sure they have not developed any leaks from heat hardening or cracks in the rubber. If the Mikuni 42 will fit the inlet side of the manifold I'd think the stock flanges and seals would be a good bet for the seals at the inlet ports on the heads. The seals are cheap enough and easy to replace them so I'd do it if the bike was running rough and/or if I was going to disturb them. You have to cut down or rebend a (3/16"?) Allen wrench a little to get at the bolts but that is easy enough to do. When I did mine I also pulled the carb to do the classic #45 low speed jet/un cap the adjusting screw mod. I don't know if my seals needed replacing or not but the bike ran so damn good after the carb mod I didn't care. I was very happy. Jack | ||
| Hodakaguy |
Get the James brand intake seals (blue). They will hold up a lot better than the stock seals. Just my 2 cents. Hodakaguy | ||
| Smokinjryan |
I have the seals already cause I didnt know I didnt have aftermarket flanges. So I guess I will head over to HD and pick up some stock flanges. Hopefully they will have them.I have it all apart waiting. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
The stock manifold work fine with the Mukini HSR42. HD has a bigger manifold available for the HSR44. | ||
| Smokinjryan |
OK WELL ALL WAS GOOD!! I got the intake seals done no problem.I cut down an allen wrench and all worked.I also replaced primary chain tensioner and made sure my front sprocket was torqed to spec. I did all this in hopes it was the knock sound I am hearing but looks like valve noise from front head. I hear everyone saying Buell valve train can be very load but I dont think this is the norm I am hearing. Anybody in NJ with a Buell I can compare noise with North NJ Parsippany? | ||
| Jackbequick |
John, Have you tried localizing the noise with a stethoscope? A 18" or so piece of 1/2" or so wooden dowel will work too. Put the dowel so that it closes the flap on your ear and touch the end to various spots on the heads and cam/lifter chest. With two cylinders, you have a good basis for comparison. My M2 had a little lifter noise but it was very similar on both jugs. When I did the rocker box gaskets I turned the engine over by hand a couple of time with the pushrods out/unloaded. At startup, there was some light clatter for about almost a minute or so before the lifters got themselves all normalled up again. Jack | ||
| Djkaplan |
Is the 'knock' there when you start the bike, or does it have to warm up first? | ||
| Smokinjryan |
knock is there from start on the front jug on the primary side..The pushrods or on the otherside right..the long tubes right...So would it be a lifter or valve? Is either a hard thing or costly... Is this a winter project. It is on the primary side though. | ||
| Jackbequick |
If its on the primary side that would be the side where the rocker arms contact the valve ends. To the front would be the exhaust valve and to the rear the intake. You might be able to localize more it by listening to the exhaust flange or intake manifold. If it is up at the top it could be the rocker arm slapping a valve end because the lifter is not fully pumped up to take all the play out. Or a peened valve end? Or maybe even a bent push rod? The lifters are at the bottom ends of the push rod tubes. If you pull the rocker covers you can check for excessive play on the rods by bring the cylinder to TDC and trying to turn the push rod (should be tight). And you should be able see if the valve end look okay too. If you remove the rocker boxes you can lift the push rods out. They are color coded for placement with paint, the details are in the SM. Thats as far as I've been, I think you have to pull the heads to get at the lifters. Jack | ||
| Oldog |
Thats as far as I've been, I think you have to pull the heads to get at the lifters. No that is not the case, to get the lifters. do this..  Put the bike on stands, rear wheel in the air, and put it in 5th gear, clean the heads, remove the plugs. Unload the valves for the cylinder in question, (tdc compression stroke. )the pushrods will turn with the fingers when unloaded. Remove the rocker box for that cylinder set it aside, remove the pushrods make note of location, [ a piece of cardboard cut 2x in and push em trough ] Remove the aluminum clamp at the base of the PR tubes, slip them out of the way. Remove the guide pins and keepers, lifters slip out verticaly, 99 I believe had a "retainer" plate and screw set up later bikes have a single screw/pin re assemble in reverse order after inspection. other details get gaskets and seals before starting. the lifters have a correct orientation front/back AND HOLE of origin place the lifter back in the bore that it came out of (FSM recomended here) I think that it was mentioned earlier but. the lifters require a minute or 2 to pump up normaly, also you changed some other parts recheck your work. If you have not done this inspect the oil pump driving gear on the crank if worn consider replacing with the upgraded Bronze item. ( check the other lifters and then the gear chest in the process ) read the breakdown process for the chest BEFORE starting, Not complicated a couple of important details though, you will want the gear tool if you do it. knock is there from start on the front jug on the primary side Primary chain or shoe? From the porch Oldog (Message edited by oldog on July 21, 2006) | ||
| Lurchandy |
There is always the neanderthal method. Get a new set of adjustable push rod, removable pushrod covers(like the old sporties had) and a pair of bolt cutters. Remove the pushrod covers u have any way u like and cut out the old pushrods with bolt cutters. You now have access to your lifter blocks and lifters and dont need head gaskets ect. Youll also be able to get at your cams if u want. When youve finished inspection or whatever just put in your new adjustable pushrods and your removable pushrod covers and your done. Mind U will still have to make sure when doing this that you valves are all in the fully closed position and U give your lifters proper bleed down time. Anyway its what I did and it is quick and doesnt need as many gasket changes. | ||
| Patrickh |
LOL...Jason, that's too funny! | ||
| Jackbequick |
Oldog, Thanks for the info! And Lurch, that info is simply priceless! Using a bolt cutter to remove pushrods, who'd of think it? But success is a strong argument for your method! Jack | ||
| Oldog |
lurch, Saw that done on one of the "bike builder" shows, and in a mag some where. I cringed as I took it in. Jack your most welcome. |
