| Author | Message | ||
     Buellfighter |
My 96 S1 has recently started vibrating as soon as I start to accelerate but once going it smooths out and runs fine, no vibration. Does it in every gear right of the bottom. Feels like a broken motor mount but I checked them and even replaced the front isolater knowing it was bad but no luck. There is no knocking sound. I removed the primary cover thinking maybe the flywheel nut needed torqing or the shoe was broken but they both seem fine. Have not changed the rear isolaters and was wondering if there was a way to check there condition. I figured they would go bad gradually and this vibration was sudden. I still have the primary cover off till I pick up a gasket and wondered if there is something else I should check in there. Thanks in advance for help! Keith | ||
| Patrickh |
a 96 S1 with 20K on the clocks may need new rear isolators. Mine died at 10K on my 99 M2. I could not see the tears in them until I removed the iso's because the damage faced the "magic part", the swing arm mounting block. If you lay on the ground with a flashlight and inspect the iso's you may find some tearing. | ||
| Buellfighter |
Patrickh, just curious, did your isolaters die suddenly and did it give the same vibration that I described! Thanks, Keith | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
I recently replaced my rear isolators. Mine pretty much crapped out on the way to work so that by the time I was riding back, my throttle handgrip was vibrating off of the bars. My damage was not visible until it was removed from the bike. They looked saggy  and there were tiny cracks in the rubber.  I can't complain since I got 60,000 miles out of the stockers! | ||
| 89rs1200 |
Get the new version of isolators with the "Wings". They are larger, can handle about 40Lbs. more weight, and the "Wings" stop the rear tire from hitting the frame if both isolators happen to fail together. (These isolators can be used on S2s and RS/RSS1200s with some grinding of the isolators metal.) Also please order and use the new Torx bolt. The old allen touched the rubber and ACCELERATED failures. The Torx is too short to cause a problem. If you are mechanically inclined, this job is easy. I have replaced these on all 3 of my S3's. * Just take care and DO NOT cross thread the Torx Bolts! * Roll Pin length is CRITICAL!! If too long, it will cause premature failure by forcing the rubber to separate from the metal. [0.080-0.120 in. (2.032-3.048 mm)] * Please use the Torx Bolts! They stay out of the way better than the allens. * For '97 & '98 I recommend you take off the exhaust first. This allows for more lifting clearance. * Remove the isolator bolts and raise the frame slowly only enough to remove the isolators. Any more and you may stress the other engine mounts. * To install use a long bolt, nut and washer to compress the first isolator, a little, to the frame. This gives enough clearance to install the second isolator past the roll pin. * Use the original allen bolt to get the isolators set in place. * Use anti-seize compound under the Torx face so that when you tighten, to torq specifications [63-70 ft-lbs (85-95Nm)], you do not turn the isolator. Left Isolator: L0504.9 $13.50 Right Isolator: L0505.9 $13.50 2-Torx Screws 5/8x16x3/4: AA1006.10FKZB $4.13 each There was an isolator kit that included the above and a new style belt/pully guard. May no longer be available. Isolator Kit: Z0010.CB $70.00 As a guide only: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/bulletins/Isolators96-00.pdf | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
I had to chop my belt guard a but to make room for the ears. (but of course I have an X1) | ||
| Buellfighter |
Thanks for the info guys, I'm all ears  !!! I'll change the rear isolaters, Any other suggestions! | ||
| Bookyoh |
Buellfighter: There is a write up at americanthunderbike.org on isolator replacement. I followed that method on my M2. A couple of things I learned for the next time: 1. If you decide to grease your swingarm bearings, buy an extra grease seal. They are easy to bend. 2. You may want to buy a tap in case you start to cross thread the isolator bolt. It is a fine thread and the torx head is against the rubber of the isolator so it is easy to cross thread. Good luck. Mark | ||
| 89rs1200 |
Isolator compression tool: http://www.americanthunderbike.org/techtips/isotool.php | ||
| Djkaplan |
Just printed that for my personal archives... thanks! |
