| Author | Message | ||
     Buellx1w |
that doggone thing is a royal pain. They should have used a spline or hex key instead of a slotted screw cap. Or better yet a 5/16 bolt head.. Or at least make it a HARD metal! I bought replacements for it but I could not get it off today and its all buggered up now. BUMMER! http://www.spydertrips.com/pix/x1/s1.jpg http://www.spydertrips.com/pix/x1/s3.jpg http://www.spydertrips.com/pix/x1/s4.jpg | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
That blows bad. The only trick I can think of is heat. The caliper is made of aluminum and the plug is steel. If you heat them both up, the aluminum will expand more than the steel. It looks greasy already so I guess you already tried some sort of penetrating oil? | ||
| Chasespeed |
PB Blaster... A couple gentle whacks with a brass punch...and it should work out...I brok e2 carftsman, and one snap-on screw drivers trying to get mine apart... Ued the PB again, let it sit overnight and first thing in the morning, befor work, used the brass punch, with a LITE tapping... viola... Funny thing is, first time I did the breaks...it was easy....twist..and it came right out... Chase F*ck'em if they can't take a joke. | ||
| Buellx1w |
I tried to tap it out- no luck.. I'm in the process of trying to drill it out now.  I'm also looking on EBAY for a replacement caliper. The weird part is- last time I had a hard time getting it out, I BARELY tightened it in anticipation it would be hard to get out. I can get a hex wrench now on the pin.. I'm thinking if I can get the pin to start coming out it will back out the cap too. Thing is- I tried both English and Metric hex keys- none seem to get a good tite fit? S | ||
| Buellzebub |
subtle warming worked for me use anti-sieze on the screw when you replace it, especially if you ride anywhere where they may use salt on the roads. | ||
| Sloppy |
An impact driver will do the trick. Also put a hair dryer on the caliper to have it expand. Oxidation of the aluminum gets "caught" in the threads which makes it very difficult to remove. Anti-sieze will prevent this from ocurring again. I would also suggest the purchase of a thread cleaner kit -- it will make sure your threads are clean and neat. | ||
| Freeflyer |
Thats funny you say neither metric or standard fit the hex snug, I had the same thing a month ago and ended up messin it all up, and I assure you nothing standard or metric fit tightly before I buggered it up, I thought it was maybe a 5.5mm talked to hd mechanic who said nope its definately a 5mm so I striped it out trying to use the 5mm then had to pound a T40 bit into it and it came out, the funny thing is the new pin I ordered fit a 5mm hex perfectly, I think the had a bad batch of pins mine was on a 20O2 M2 | ||
| Bomber |
they are all kinda soft -- combined with the aluminum oxidation mentioned above, and you are certain to have trouble at some point -- antiseize if just hte ticket! It is better to be shot from a gun than squeezed from a tube -- HSThompson | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
My pin is 5.5mm on the nose. | ||
| Patrickh |
Impact driver with heat will remove it, I used a hand impact tool the first time. Now I always use anti-sieze on many of the bolts in the calipers. I also use anti-sieze on the pieces of my floating discs. Now everything comes apart without problems everytime. | ||
| Tsispyder |
what kinda camera did you take that with? | ||
| Buellx1w |
> what kinda camera did you take that with? A Nikon coolpix (in MACRO MODE) | ||
| Buellx1w |
Thats funny you say neither metric or standard fit the hex snug, I had the same thing a month ago and ended up messin it all up, and I assure you nothing standard or metric fit tightly before I buggered it up, I thought it was maybe a 5.5mm talked to hd mechanic who said nope its definately a 5mm so I striped it out trying to use the 5mm then had to pound a T40 bit into it and it came out, the funny thing is the new pin I ordered fit a 5mm hex perfectly, I think the had a bad batch of pins mine was on a 20O2 M2 ***************************** Isn't that weird- my experience was similar. I took it to a machanic friend who saved my ass. First off- getting out the rest of the partially drilled out cap.. He used a punch and hammer, and a miner's cap with a magnifier, and methodlically removed the rest of the cap. He remarked that the caliper is SOFT, and the cap was also SOFT, and that is a lethal combination. As far as the pin- he said to check my allen wrench to see if its worn. It didn't seem to be. But to avoid buggering up the hex head, he had me put small pliers on the pin and turn there while he eased it out with the hex wrench. This area has a lot of potential for problems. I bought 2 sets of pins and caps (only like $3 each set), and plan to replace them at every pad change. BTW, the REAR pin/cap is a different part number. Also, I plan to take the cap to ACE, and get a small BOLT (same threads) to use instead of the cap. Im also chekcing the pin for fit with my hex wrench- if its loose I'm taking it to HD to ask WTF !! This is a major potential problem area. Surprising as these are OEM calipers from another manufacturer who specialize in brakes!? - Spyder, Malabar FL | ||
| Buellx1w |
> My pin is 5.5mm on the nose. DO they MAKE a 5.5mm hex wrench ? | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Yes. I have a foldy thing with metric hex from Sears and it has a 5.5mm in it. I know... What's the point of going into metric if you have to deal with fractions again? | ||
| Freeflyer |
Ive only heard of BMW's having the 5.5mm but there could be others. Mine was just a little smaller than the 5.5 so I was screwed, nothing fit, well the t40 did after customization. What a halfass company that made those bolts, I can see having a bad batch of metal but to have the heads not only that far off but not even consistently off come on |
