| Author | Message | ||
     Silas_clone |
When I set the rear belt to "scary loose" a while back, I carefully used the factory method to align the rear axle. I rode like that since til yesterday. I had always felt a light pull to the right and found myself putting a nagging little bit more pressure on the left bar, thought that the tire was wearing too fast, etc., so I decided to move the left axle adjuster forward. I moved it maybe a 1/16" and went out for an hour. Seems like the bike tracks better now. No more extra bit of pressure on the bar. Would that little bit of movement have much effect? [I rechecked the belt adjustment] In terms of tire pressure, I am a 300 pounder, should I run the tire pressure at factory spec? | ||
| Silas_clone |
It's actually .027" difference not that much, huh? Feels better. | ||
| Denfromphilly |
When I first bought my bike it was off by .020" and I thought it steered funny. I changed it and measured carefully with a calipers and got it to .003" it did steer better. The most precise measurement is the isolator center to the axle center but I have yet to figure out how to get a really accurate measure of that dimension. I stopped running my belt "scary loose" when I got new stainless belt guards. It was squeaking on deceleration. | ||
| Oldog |
to get a close measurement you may have to take some stuff apart or come up with a very accurate transfer method. the Swing arm relative to its self should be quite accurate ( bearing bore to adjuster pocket ) how do you pick up the mount block variation? relative to the desired axle position? buell FSM says that the adjuster blocks should be within .015" or 1/64" of the same distance to the wall of the mounting pocket I bet that there is at least .005" slop in the block for the axle variation could be .020" what to you use to check the alignment against that is EXACTLY 90deg and straight for the better part of 8 feet. all I have is the factory method... | ||
| Silas_clone |
I just tried to Adjust by "feel" I felt a "nagging" pull and moved the axle to where I thought it would be better. I can't say it was not some other factor, all I know is that the pull is not there. | ||
| Jackbequick |
I still think one of the best "sanity checks" for wheel alignment is to get two 5-6 foot long straight pieces (wood, electrical conduit, tubing, angle iron, etc.) in contact with the sides of the rear tire and look at the relationship/spacing of those same two pieces relative to the front tire. A little bit of error becomes pretty evident. I used to do that by laying the straight edges on 2x4 blocks at both ends to get them up off the floor where they could contact the sidewalls in two places on the back tire and I'd hold them in place with a bungee. You do have to be able to support the bike vertically though, being on a side stand won't work. Once you get it straight you can get some measurements or make some marks to get it back quickly. Jack | ||
| Silas_clone |
Jack, that is probably the best. I have to try it, I know I've used that somewhere in the distant past. | ||
| Henrik |
Hi-viz carpenter string (Home-D) works well too. Henrik | ||
| Buellfighter |
Never did trust the alignment marks on my motocross or street bikes and used the "string" method also! |
