| Author | Message | ||
     Buellgler |
long a successful mtn. bike fork formula, anyone ever thought about drilling/tapping the top-end of the non-preload adjustable forks and adding a schrader valve? thoughts? All my freeride/downhill mtn. bikes use air to aid coils in preload, works excellent. Given the fact that my bikes routinely see 8-17 ft. drops and such, I don't see how it could hurt a streetbike... | ||
| Bomber |
couple of issues on this one (as you'll note, most MC makers had air-assisted forks at one time, but no longer do) having pressurized air in the fork, I'm told, adds to the problem of air mixing with the oil, confusing the daylights outa the dampening circuits excessive pressure (and if there is a control, some user will mis-use it ;-} ) will cause seals to fail lastly -- it's likely just not needed -- simpler is better, and a properly adjusted set of hydr forks works fine (although easy adjustment, especially to the rear suspension, would be aces for those that pack 2 up semi-regularly) | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Yup! I popped my KLR250's forks with too much pressure. | ||
| Djkaplan |
Also, regular air doesn't make a good medium for pressurization if there is heat involved (back in the day when we all had air assisted forks, nitrogen was the medium of choice for pressurization). It'll start expanding and increase the effective spring rate of the forks. This, compounded by aeration and heat of the the damping (I left the 'en' off dampen for Blake) oil will throw all your cold settings down the tubes (so to speak). Better to use the proper rate spring and fine tune the initial action with preload. | ||
| Buellgler |
just seemed to me like it would work given the common characteristics of the fork internals. With the particularly high loads long travel mtn. bike suspension is subjected to, thought it would work plenty being that m/c front ends rarely leave the ground and come down after a 10ft. freefall. oh well. |
