| Author | Message | ||
     Aaomy |
ive heard some people talking about and complaining about shops not being able to balance their tires. i like old bikes and on more that one occasion have been told oh we can't balance that,, or it dosent matter if the rear is balanced.. and take the rotor and pulley off and we can balance it.. in my mind all the rotating mass should be balanced.. its not like the rotor or pulley dont rotate with the rest of the assembly..even some tire i had balanced had less that diserable results,, and yes when checked later did turn out to be poor balancing jobs.. personally i mount my own tires and balance them now. at this point i dont have the money to give away, or the time to wait for the local shops. so with out further a-due to start you will need two good bearings and a straight shaft.. i had the two bearings seen and the shaft was ordered from msc or mcmaster carr.. the shaft is a thomson hardened and ground bearing shaft. its 15mm x about 15" long, i think it cost around $14 when i got it..  i clean the bearings out of all the grease and just use an ultra light oil so they rotate super easily. the bearing are setting in my v-blocks, it just keeps them from rolling on the uneven seat. the v blocks are not needed but if you have a set you may as well use them..  here you can see the reason i choose a longer shaft.. you want the shaft pretty level..  (Message edited by aaomy on March 27, 2006) | ||
| Aaomy |
after you remove all the old weights form the rim place the rim on the shafts as seen and let gravity take over.. you dont have to spin the tire, usually their is enough difference at one point to cause it to rotate in one direction or the other. when the tire comes to rest place a small piece of masking tape at the top inside of the rim. rotate the rim 1/3 turn and release. see if the point returns to the top. if it dose you know you heavy point.. it is now at the bottom. so now weight must be added to the top. you always want to add as little weight as possible.. start with your smallest weight and masking tape it to the top inside of the rim. i add mine closest to center. these are a couple examples of weights,, i usually a 1/4 oz at a time.  after you tape on the weights rotate the wheel part of a turn and release. see if the weight returns to the top. if it dose add another weight and continue. what you are trying to obtain is the littles amount added and have the rim end up at random locations each time it is gently spun. this would be ideal, most of the time you will all weight and then it will switch and that point will become the heavy point.. then you remove the last 1/4oz you added. remember, add as little as possible.  | ||
| Aaomy |
now you rim is balanced, carefully place the weights on the rim in the location you had them taped. recheck the balance to make sure you have them in the right place. better rims and tires require less weight. this particular tire took a lot.. most i have dont " buell rims that is" only took about 1/4oz to 3/4oz .  and yes this works for all kinds of motorcycle tires.. i do every thing from my enduro tires to my 62' xlch ,, my friends 85 flh to my 71 suzuki t-500 rims.. they all work fine..  hope this helps,, this way you can balance you rims with everything on them. and save a little money in the process. the local shop was charging $15 buck a pop several years ago to balance rims.. | ||
| Ceejay |
Good stuff! My problem has always been getting the damn front tire on, got any good tips for that? | ||
| Oldog |
Well done my friend, I learned something. | ||
| Raceautobody |
One trick is to set up your rim assy. on the balancer without the tire installed to check where the heavy spot is on the rim. It may not be the valve stem. Mark the heavy spot on the rim install your tire and line up the dot on the tire to your mark instead of the valve stem and balance. Using less weight the better the balance. Aaomy Great post and pixs. Al (Message edited by raceautobody on March 28, 2006) (Message edited by raceautobody on March 28, 2006) | ||
| Cmhxb9 |
Outstanding! I just ordered the bearings and shaft from McMaster-Carr. Many Thanks, Cmhxb9 | ||
| Henrik |
Great write-up Aaron. Thanks. Now, how about a tire R&R tutorial w/ choice of tools, technique etc.  Henrik | ||
| Aaomy |
Al,, great tip,, forgot to post that one.. thanks.. ceejay,, hummm --- grunt grunt growl ,, curse curse walk around the shop twice,, grab the windex and grunt and growl some more... henrik,, you really want a good laugh dont you? i weigh in at about 140,, lets just say it takes all of me,, including my size 13's , seriously that one will have to wait for my next tire change,, probably around mid summer.. ive got other projects in picture form waiting to be posted.. and about 6 other ones im currently working on... the tire r&r will have to wait im just happy if this helps some one.. P.S. stay away from the lick and stick wheel weights, they taste like paint chips.. | ||
| Ceejay |
Aomy-yea, kinda what I thought, after getting the rear on with little trouble, I'm smiling at the twenty bucks I saved, after the front I'm usually spending that twenty on a good bottle of bourbon and some band-aids...Soapy water, some levers, work boots, and a lot of cursing. My puppy's are usually looking at me, head cocked worried look on thier faces...will probably do the front first from now on. | ||
| Jamesearthdrum |
Bore a hole the diameter of the bearings in a block of 2x4. Cut in half, instant V blocks. james (Message edited by jamesearthdrum on March 31, 2006) | ||
| Packnrat |
has any out there got any real world use and exp of using the beads inside of the tire? . |
