| Author | Message | ||
     Bookyoh |
Hello: I just picked up a 2001 S3T today and have a few questions. Unfortunately, it did not come with an owners manual. The bike has very low miles and everything appears to work except for the clock. It has a gutted stock muffler which I plan to replace. 1. I cannot find the release cable for the seat. Where the heck is it? 2. When did HD/Buell upgrade the primary chain tensioner. My 2000 Cyclone had the old thin one and I cannot remember when they went to the beefier one. Thanks, Mark Cincinnati | ||
| Buellbozo |
mark,there's a "t" handle under the l.h. tail section about halfway down the curve.it got me too!i'm a new bueller.i stay amazed...bozo | ||
| Dfbutler |
Reach under the left side fender/fairing just behind the driver's foot peg and there is a t-handle, pull down (assuming it's not locked). Replace the primary chain tensioner, it's not worth the chance of failure! | ||
| Dana P. |
The 2001 had the upgraded tensioner on them. You should\ be good to go unless you have many miles on her then you may want to replace. | ||
| Whodom |
According to the X-1 files site (http://www.saintjohn.nbcc.nb.ca/Marriott/x1/) Buells made before June 1, 2000 have the old style tensioner. I'd imagine your 2001 was built long after that, but you can always check the VIN plate to make sure. | ||
| Le_salle |
CAN YOU PUT XB CG FORK SPRINGS ON A 01 S3? THANKS, CODY | ||
| Marks3tbillet |
Congrats on the S3T Mark. Mark Dayton, Ohio | ||
| Essthreetee |
Here is a link for a 2002 owners manual I found on ebay...I THINK that it should be the same. May be better than nothing??? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Buell-2002-Owners-Manual-M2-M2L-X1-S3T_W0QQcmdZVi ewItemQQcategoryZ35557QQitemZ4598431569QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW | ||
| Bookyoh |
Thanks for the quick answers and the link to the manual. The bike has under 2000 miles on it and needed some basic maintenance; lubricating cables and levers. The clock housing was separating for the lense so I took it out and epoxied it back together. Seems to be working fine now. It was about 40 degrees today so I took it out for a few minutes around the neighborhood (it's not titled or licensed yet). It was kicking and bucking like crazy around 3500 RPM. I pulled the plugs (Autolite 4164) and they were fouled. Changed them with a used set of Champion 8809's I had in my tool box and it runs fine now. I'll get a new set next time I go out. I've been running Champion 905 / RA4HC's in my Cyclone and will try the same in the S3T. I only had it up to 40MPH or so but everything feels good now. I guess I'll have to start reading up about fuel injection now. Mark Cincinnati | ||
| Niceharleystuff |
Congrats on the S3T.  Jeff | ||
| Iamike |
Mark, If yours is like my '99 it can run pretty rough after sitting around for a long time. I don't know if it has to do with the ECM loosing what it learned or what. Like today it reached 48 so I rode it for the first time in about two months. It started right off the bat and idled fine. But like usual it took about ten miles to smooth out. I have realized that I can live with this little issue since it is so much fun to ride otherwise. | ||
| Cmodtopgun |
Here is the trick with FI, get out on the highway, get into high gear, and run 1 mile keeping revs over 2500, and below 3000. This reprograms the FI, helps if bike has bee sitting, or you tow to a different elevation. | ||
| Bookyoh |
Thanks for the trick on the FI. I will give it a try when I get the bike out in the Spring. Mark | ||
| Easy_rider |
You'll also need to run it at 2500/3000 if you run it out of gas. | ||
| Florida_thunder |
I also own a 99 S3 Thunderbolt. On the 19th I'm going for a fresh Dyno and I have the Power Commander III by K&N. Do these tips after running out of gas or sitting for a little while or just being cold out apply to me as well? It's always been rough around 3000 RPM and I was told by the previous owner that she needed a touch of Dyno time. I had it this way for almost a year as I was told it is kinda normal just that the PC was just running a little rich in the Mids. It does smooth out with a longer ride to some minor extent and for me changing plugs did nothing. What should I expect from the Dyno considering she's otherwise stock plus a V&H slip-on. How important is it that the bike is fresh (one mile from here to the highway) and is High Gear important or only 2500-3000 for one mile. Will it reset every time you go one mile in High at said RPM. Thanks for the tips, Despite every thing (like bolts disappearing from the bike) or minor repairs. I love the bike... Best regards, DJ | ||
| Cmodtopgun |
Get some blue loctite, you will need it, but just once | ||
| Odinbueller |
It's a bit of a headache, but you can get the drain plug out for the primary without removing either stock or aftermarket exhausts. Hey FL Thunder! The DDFI system has what they call and Adaptive Fuel Value, or AFV. Bikes form the factory in East Troy are set at 100%, which is the baseline setting at 98 feet above sea level (not sure about elevation). Once at the dealership, the PDI (Pre Delivery Inspection) test ride should consist of a 15 mile test ride, with a considerable stretch ridden at highway speeds. The DDFI system kicks into closed loop operation above 2500 RPM at steady cruising, and the value is automatically adjusted based on O2 levels (lean or rich), in essence, the ECM is "learning", and setting the AFV based on current riding conditions. That's why if you run out of gas and get the bike back up to 2500 RPM, it runs poorly or just shuts down, because the AFV is set to maximum lean. Cold startup, idle, and WOT or below 2500 RPM or above, I think 4500 RPM, the bike runs off pre-programmed "maps" stored in the ECM, or open loop mode. WOT & Idle or cold startups are full pulse width on the injectors. This is why the bike will run once filled up after running out of gas, but run poorly or not at all once the AFV/Closed Loop mode kicks in. It is also why if you start the bike and don't ride it, you will foul the plugs. Now, I may get flamed for this, but I would recommend dumping the PCIII for a Buell race ECM & hi flow air cleaner element (you mention it being stock except for the muffler). One reason is unless you have changed your displacement or have any kind of serious engine mods, the PCIII will not really do much for you. Also, you essentially have a "Too many chefs" scenario, with 2 computers fighting to control combustion, especially with the AFV. Don't let anyone tell you the bike needs to be put on a Dyno, as Dyno tuning only squeezes out maximum power from the engine, and doesn't solve runnability problems. A dyno tuned bike may produce great power on the dyno, but on the street it may run like a 3 legged dog. My S3T has the same hesitation issue when it's cold, but warmed up has no problem. Do you notice this while cold? And I agree, blue loctite is always good to use. I try to not thread a fastener without loctite, liquid Teflon, or anti seize, depending on the fastener and application. Just my $0.02 Chris | ||
| Florida_thunder |
Thanks, I've been told that removing the battery cables and shorting the computer momentarily starts the reprogramming steps over again. Do you agree? DJ | ||
| Odinbueller |
I honestly don't know about shorting the computer, but would recommend that you have a Buell dealer check your AFV setting, if it's way out of whack (150% or 98%, something way off of 100%), then have them reset it using the proper tools. Sometimes the "short cut" things you hear about may cause more problems than fix  Any time you short something, you're risking some sort of potential damage, as you're bypassing all in line safeguards. Chris | ||
| Florida_thunder |
Thanks for the tips. My local Harley shop was carrying Buells last year when I bought my S3 with 7000 miles. Then they dropped the line. Now I only have Harley or ex-Harley techs around and I'm told that they should not work on Buells. The closest real Buell garage is about 60 miles away. I'm hoping to learn how to handle all the basic stuff myself. I joined BRAG and the local group has already been helpful with loads of advice. Sometimes the advice conflicts with each other or even reasonable logic. I ride a lot around town as a commuter and only use my car when needed. So, I need it to run right but I don't need to build a race bike. Since the dyno it is worse than ever. How do I reset the computer so it will reprogram and learn my style. And, yes, I did run it out of gas once but it started right back up and it was much later that I noticed it being so rough. Also I'm told that the throttle position sensor/valve might need adjustment but I don't know how. I'm tempted to remove the PC III and put the race ECM in. Then go for a ride. I have the race ignition and aftermarket exhaust but I think she is stock otherwise. I just don't know if there are other steps or adjustments that must be done. Does the ECM self program upon power up? Does it use three ranges of codes also? Can it be tweaked or adjusted? Thanks, soon I will try to disconnect the battery terminals in hopes that this will force the reset. Any ideas are appreciated. Best regards, DJ | ||
| Oldog |
FT: to reset the AFV or the TPS you need a computer and a little "Kit" DaveS or American Sport Bike can hook you up shorting Will only damage stuff! battery disconnect does not help. Tps is seting the zero for the "throttle position sensor" I read in a thread a response about don't un hook the wires but you can take the sensor off - 1 word here BUNK the idea is to physicaly establish the full closed throttle position or ZERO the ECM takes the signal at that point as fully closed, this value is "saved" into the ecm and only changes if the tps pot moves or changes electricaly, there is no short cut here I have to agree with chris I have the pc3, just to add a little fuel ( prevent knocks ) lots of extra stuff, get the race ecm, and the "fi" software to allow you to reset these values and test the system. then living with an Fi bike will be easy mine (x1) also runs rough whan cold. | ||
| Formerslimjim |
I have the stock ECM with a pcIII. Don't waste alot of time messing with it. For whatever reason, dynojet has intentionally made it very user unfriendly. If you have a setup that EXACTLY fits one of their maps, you will be pretty close to a good setup. If not, you'll have to go to a professional or it will drive you crazy trying to get it mapped right. The simplest fix is to eBay your pcIII and buy the race ECM. Have a TPS reset, AFV reset, and timing done at the dealer. You can also do these yourself with the service manual (not owners manual) and the software that you can buy from American Sport Bike. | ||
| Bad_karma |
Bookyoh I have a 1999 S3. My release was on the left side down by the battery. I have a two brother can and love the power and sound. | ||
| Odinbueller |
You can replace the stock ECM with the race ECM, remove the PCIII, but you will need to zero your TPS. The setup that DaveS can get you is pretty slick, but will work on your bike only, so don't try it out on a friends bike first Yeah, when you ran out of gas, the ECM kept bumping up the AFV, because it was getting a false lean condition. It will start up no problem, as the injectors are at full pulse width, but cruising will be pretty bad, or even downright horrible. Plugs will most surely foul too. An AFV reset & new plugs will take care of that. Sorry to hear that there are no dealers close by. It was a kind of thinning of the heard that was probably necessary for the long run, but dealer locations should be on the rise soon. Better days for Buelligans are just over the horizon, so hang in there. Chris | ||
| Florida_thunder |
Hey Thanks for the PC III and ECM advice. I have to admit I went away on a business trip and did not check in here for a while. Now this is for real. The local guy who was telling me to do a simple battery cable short was LaFayette who is the BRAG leader for the Lakeland FL group. They are my closest BRAG group, about 60 miles away and they're featured in the back of the current Fuell Magazine for the BRAG members out there. We've never met face to face but he has spent hours with me on the phone and email. He has a carbureted S3 so he did some research and said I should try the Battery thing. His S3 has 70K+ miles, and I figured that he knows a lot of stuff, maybe I'll try it. But I was afraid so I left town on business before messing with it. To be honest, after that Dyno attempt, it was so bad, I was questioning riding or trailering the bike to get professional help. I got a reference for a guy in St. Pete FL (not dealer but very good about 40 miles). Oddly enough, I met the owner of Jim's Harley in St. Petersburg this week while we waited for our luggage on my return flight. It's the oldest Buell Dealer in Florida, and in St. Pete, I guess I should check them out? He seemed nice for the three minutes I knew him. But I digress. Once I returned (five days later) I jumped back on the bike. It ran so bad. Even warm, so I figured I would trailer the bike somewhere South in St. Pete. Out of desperation and with much hesitation I gently removed the battery cables. Now I have planned a ride of at least 15 miles as the Dealer would do on a set up ride. I was scared to touch the cables together, so I waited a few minutes, figuring any stored energy in capacitors would dissipate. Then I touched them together (I was told "like striking a match" but really any touch will do the same thing). After connecting + and - I put my helmet on and hit the start button... Now, when I bought it, it would start like that but the way it had been lately, I had to add gas for it to start and it would turn a few times when cold before catching, OK warm right away with gas though. ...So this day, no gas, let's see... First turn, Bumple, bumple, bumple.. like magic. A little throttle, like magic... First gear to the end of the driveway, and beyond... like magic. I went to the highway 0.7 miles away cold at 2000 to 3300 rpm 2nd gear. I was already smiling so hard my cheeks were pushing up my sunglasses. I think my eyes were watering just a little. I got on it a bit through 2K to 5K range popping up gears onto the highway, just like magic. I've had the bike for about one year, ran it out of gas, just once, many months ago. It has never run so well. :-) I rode the whole trip and did not want to stop. I was so shocked that this has amazingly fixed all of my issues. That was Monday, I ride it everyday and have put about 100 miles on the bike so far since I did this. The bike starts right away, without assistance at any Florida temperature this week. OK, while I'm micro-analyzing the bike, dead cold she might have a stutter at 3K but hardly and only for three minutes or so. I called Lafayette within seconds of arriving at the first destination. I had changed the plugs last month as it was getting funky, nothing happened (but the others were rich-a-fried. But, this has fixed everything about the bike except the broken front exhaust clamp (that I wish I could run without but I'm told that's a bad idea). Now, I am the GM of an electronics manufacturing plant here in Florida. I agreed with the risk factor that was outlined, but things eventually got so bad, I went for it (maybe having a brand new race ECM in a box about four feet away gave me courage). If I understand the basic gist of what you folks are saying, the ecm and ignition train as they go along based on readings from sensors. We made a product years ago that had similar issues with the chip inside, to be honest, in 33+ years, it's the only product my company ever black listed and traded in against my new products after I took over the company. The point was, "garbage in garbage out" and once a sensor went out of whack in the product for any reason, that was learned and then acted upon by the rest of the circuit. The product was great for those who used it correctly, but if any little thing happened, suddenly there were lots of bad readings, poor performance and other issues. We eventually would just tell customers who wouldn't trade me for a new model, just to short one of the output pins to ground with a paper clip. The units self protection was never an issue and the chip would reset and all of the problems would go away, temporarily at least until more bad data got into the records. My new product did not use a chip, I went back to the old fashioned way and never had any more issues. With this life experience and nothing to lose, I tried what seemed a little risky but plausible. It worked great! I don't know which of the ingredients were most valuable and I'm sorry for being long winded. But I'm truly satisfied with the bike like never before, as I bought it with 7K miles (now 12+) and did only standard maintenance (oil, tires and brakes) other than the gear shifter cog thingy slipping up on me at about 11K. Having never ridden another Buell Tuber, I did not really know how bad she was. I had asked LaFayette if he would ride it for me and tell me how bad it was. Now I'll be proud to let him take her for a spin. She's cranking like I had never known she could and she's as smooth as I would expect from any two banger. Wish me luck that she continues like this for a while. I will be sure to NEVER run out of gas again. Now, I know, she was never completely right since I had her. But got worse with running out of gas, and then with the bad Dyno adjust. I had to share my good fortune with those of you who cared enough to advise me. I'm trying to go on my first BRAG ride on Saturday. I've only seen two other Buells on the road this year. It would be great to check out the bunch of them. Good Luck Out There, watch for cars... DJ | ||
| Cactusjack578 |
Hi Guys, I have a used 99 S3T with 30,000 miles.It's box stock. Is there anyway to make this thing run cooler? When the air temp reaches 85 or above this thing begins to knock and ping and it eats oil. I'm going to put an oil cooler on it but is there anything else I can do? After market pistons and cylinders? Heads? Need help! | ||
| Buellistic |
Cactusjack578: Put a SPORTSTER oil cooler/BIG TWIN themrostat on it and it will run cooler !!! In BUELLing LaFayette | ||
| Josh_ |
Race ECM, new plugs, new plug wires. I ran my 99 S3T at Sturgis in 104deg heat w/o pinging or an oil cooler. keep the oil at just above the low line on the dip stick and it should stay there. if everything is ok (rings, valve seals, no leaks) the bike will "self-regulate" the oil and spit out what it doesn't want. | ||
| Buellistic |
CHECK YOUR OIL 101: After a ride, on the sidestand with the engine running !!! REMBER THIS: The stock oil capicity of a "TUBE FRANE" is 2 1/2 quarts ... If you put more than 2 1/2 quarts in it will cause problems ... The excess oil will PUKE out the breathers, can over flow into the TRANMISSION, make the base gaskets weep ... THE ENGINE WILL REACH A "OIL LEVEL" THAT IT LIKES !!! | ||
| Oldog |
OK so the AFV is not written into a nv memory, strange, That is a supprise, I did not consider the "shorting" routine that you mentioned I thought while live on the battery good on you, Had I known that Lafayette gave you the advice I would not have questioned it He is the G.O.M. in FL as far as buells go. |
