| Author | Message | ||
     Blackbelt |
Any help/pics would be AWESOME. Difficulty level. I am trying the cheap route before i get a new drive gear.. and if it is the drive gear then Hay i have a new sensor incase the old one does go bad. | ||
| Whodom |
Blackbelt- Are you talking about your oil pressure switch? AFAIK, there is no such thing as an oil level sensor on any Buell. I'd guess from your post that the oil light came on and you suspect the oil pump drive gear is toast, but you're hoping maybe you just have a bad pressure switch (which is a possibility). You could also have a short in the wire to the oil pressure switch, which would cause the light to come on. If you suspect your oil pump drive gear is fragged, man, do not even crank that thing over once. Take ~15 minutes, drop the oil pump and LOOK INSIDE. If your oil pump drive gear has fragmented, you will have ZERO oil pressure plus you will have a bunch of shrapnel floating around in the cases, which will likely (and quickly) chew up all your cam drive gears and cause all sorts of havoc in there if you crank the engine. Drop the oil pump (cut one tie wrap, loosen one oil hose fitting, remove two bolts) and either look inside with a flashlight or take some digital photos, download them to your computer and study them at your leisure. Be sure and turn the engine over a few degrees at a time and take photos so you see all sides of the gear. If I have missed the point of your post, I apologize; I'd just hate to see you hose up by trying to crank an already ailing engine. More info on oil pump drive gears: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/3842/129393.html?1120117743 | ||
| Bomber |
if you mean the oil pressure switch, you can generally find a big socket to fit -- lacking that, you can persuade em to come of without damage with a pair of waterpump pliers (I know, the tools-educated are cringing) if, while the engine is running, you can see oil returning to the oil bag, and the pressure light is on, I'd suspect the switch or it's wiring. My M2 spits the connector of the switch semi-often -- ya might wanna check that it's really making contact | ||
| Oldog |
BB dont try to check oil flow with the lid off,the bag- major mess, I think the guys are right on this I would check the signal line first then the switch. IF you think the pump drive gear is bad do the suggested above, replacing the gear is a significant job, i thought that you had sold yer sled to Daves for a new xb, I did the gear not too bad a good mechanic an afternoon, me all day I had it all apart for a look and new seals. other than the grenading oil pump gear no problem as an aside have you heard from Aaomy lately? | ||
| Ceejay |
you're light will not come on if it is loose or off of the sending unit. sending units do go bad, and if you want to check your pressure all you need is an 1/8"MPT to 1/8" tube fitting some 1/8" line and a 0-20 PSI guage. the light I believe comes on if the pressure goes below 7 psi, so any reading above that should be good. I have a phantom on mine cause it looks cool but also becuase I don't like dummy lights. | ||
| Ceejay |
oh yea to get the old electronic sending unit out I just used some channel locks, but I wasn't keeping it so thus didn't care what it looked like once removed.... | ||
| Blackbelt |
Thanks for all the help guys.. I am planning on selling the X1, but i am selling locally. I want to make sure i sell a bike w/o problems... i will see if spidy can help me w/ the oil pump drive gear check, so i don't f-it up.. adam | ||
| Oldog |
BB on the pump Drive gear inspection is easy, replacement is not difficult but more is involved I did it and will be checking the engine next fall for gear condition. you will need. rocker box gasket set gear chest gasket gear chest oil seal ( timing shaft ) rivits for outer cover oil / filter gear locking tool red lock tite a couple of hours spidy.... | ||
| Reepicheep |
And just for clarification, to *check* the gear, all you need is teflon tape, a few black cable ties, an oil pump gasket, and maybe a small mirror (in addition to your normal oil change kit). You cut two or three cable ties to get oil lines out of the way, then remove 3 (?) allen head bolts to drop the pump. You can then look right up into the cam cavity and inspect the gear, rotating the engine to see both sides. Do check both, wear is generally highly asymetrical. If you then find it alarmingly worn, you need all the stuff nicely detailed by Olddog to actually replace it. Though he forgets to mention one important part... the new (improved) gear  I got away without the locking tool as well, though it would have helped. | ||
| Oldog |
I believe that requires 2 allen socket heads, Looong ones. Hey Reepi where you bin? |
