| Author | Message | ||
     Bookyoh |
I've always used a technique to fully drain the primary and transmission where I repeatedly go back and forth from upright to leaning on the side stand. I do this about 10 times until the oil finally stops dribbling out. I never understood why this works but speculated that some oil must be pooling in the transmission "sump". Well, today I pulled off my primary and found a nice little cavity of oil pooled along the bottom of the engine cases. The bead of silicone that seals the case halves acted like a nice little dam. Leaning the bike on the stands allows some of the oil to leave the pool and drain. Standing it upright and waiting a minute or two lets more drops fill the pool. At least now I know why my draining technique has worked. Mark Cincinnati | ||
| Seth |
Nah... I'm gonna stick with my pullin' the friggin' muffler off, huge mess, eight rolls of paper towel method the manual suggests   | ||
| Bookyoh |
I don't like the extra work to pull the muffler. I had hammered the dimple in the muffler a while ago so there is more room under the drain plug. I then cover the muffler under the drain hole with a sheet of aluminum foil. The foil keeps the mess off of the muffler and an old paint tray underneath catches the oil as it drains and drips. Move the bike from sidestand to standing upright about 10 times until it's all drained out. On reassembly, even with the deeper dimple I still need a putty knife to hold the oil bolt as I screw it back into the engine case. Mark | ||
| Bomber |
you can siphon off almost all of the fluid with one of those dealios that boat people use to transfer gas from a tank to the , er, tank, if ya know what I mean length of hose with a lil bulb in the middle -- it does leave a few ounces in there, but I'm thinkin if you change it semi regularly, it ain't no big deal -- I save my 8 rolls of paper towels for when I tip over the container after draining the fluid | ||
| Bluelightning |
I took the stock drain plug, went to a local hardware store and found a suitable stainless steel bolt and o ring, replaced it in the stock location and drilled and tapped a new hole next to the primary chain adjuster (some milling is required to get the new drain area flat). I leave the bike on the side stand and remove the drain plug. With the bike leaning on the stand, I am able to get most of the oil out. | ||
| Ryker77 |
pela 6000.. oil suction pump its what I use to change my car oil. | ||
| Ftd |
Boat people use electric pumps to change their oil. I have one that has a 5 gal. paint bucket attached to it. You suck out the old oil, then reverse pump to transfer oil to a container to be taken to disposal center. Works very well on the boat and Buell. http://shop.easternmarine.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=64 33&categoryID=278 | ||
| Chasespeed |
I took the stock drain plug, went to a local hardware store and found a suitable stainless steel bolt and o ring, replaced it in the stock location and drilled and tapped a new hole next to the primary chain adjuster (some milling is required to get the new drain area flat). I leave the bike on the side stand and remove the drain plug. With the bike leaning on the stand, I am able to get most of the oil out. I like that idea...hmmmmmm Chase} | ||
| Bluelightning |
Chase, Whenever you return home and can meet up, I'll show you my seat cowl and my drain plug trick. If you have about 2 hours, I might be persuaded to fix you up with a new plug location. Any word on your carb conversion yet? Karl | ||
| Silas_clone |
Old timey oil tanks on Knucks and Flatties used Banjo fittings to feed, return and breather lines. Not knowing, I wonder if there are still banjo fittings to be had? I've been thinking of drilling out a drain plug and then drilling it at a right angle near the head so that a person could loosen the plug and drain the primary...need a good O-ring or teflon washer, I guess, but the banjo fitting would be neat! Anyone know about banjo fittings? | ||
| Jackbequick |
John - They have some right angle banjo fittings used in the oil breather conversions on the rocker box vents. You can see them in this thing on breathers I posted here earlier. Those have a 1/2"-13 thread on them. Jack | ||
| Silas_clone |
Just looked at my muffler setup, V&H, not much room there...gotta take the high road and try to remove the muffler to see how bad it is. | ||
| Silas_clone |
it's a PITA | ||
| Samc |
I drilled and tapped a 3/8" hole for a stock HD big twin drain plug (it looks like a pipe plug with a magnet) just aft and outboard of the primary adjuster, in the thick part of the casting. Didn't even have to take the primary off, used a right angle drill covered with a plastic bag to drill the hole. Oil flowing out washed out the chips, I hope (and it really doesn't matter that much anyway). No fuss changes, drains well on the sidestand too. | ||
| Newfie_buell |
No need to remove the muffler at all on the tubers. Put the bike on a sportbike stand or axel stands. Take a piece of Cardboard, Plastic about 4-5inches wide and 12-18inches long and bend it down the middle (on the long) to make it look like a V. Loosen the drain plug, put the Implement (cardboard) under the drain hole and let it run out the primary to some kind of container. I've done this since the bike was new and have never had to remove the pipe for changing. As for leaving a little bit of the old stuff in, it won't hurt as you are putting so much new in there. | ||
| Samc |
"No need to remove the muffler at all on the tubers." With a stock muffler, sure. There isn't room between the V&H and primary to pull the drain plug, and it'd take more than a little dent to make clearance. | ||
| Newfie_buell |
I can remove the drain plug with my V&H Pipe on there. Not much room now but its possible. | ||
| Skulley |
Cool, drill a new drain hole on the side of the case. Any chance of drilling a fill hole in the top of the case??? it would just be easier to set the funnel in. | ||
| Samc |
You could drill the hole, but the casting's kind of thin, not much room for threads. Of course, there's no load on it either. You'd want a bigg-ish hole, too. On balance, I'd say bad idea. What we need here is a funnel with a right-angle spout. Or, make the hole big, and fab a cover plate held on with a couple of smaller screws. The part between the two bigger bolts, where the primary adjuster is, is much stouter than the rest of the outer primary and can take a good thread. The big twin primary drain plug is a pipe thread, not much longer than the thickness of the casting at that point. | ||
| Wardan123 |
I wonder if one of these thinga would work? I have one on my '97 Dodge Ram 1500 and it is great.  | ||
| Odinbueller |
I'd recommend keeping the stock magnetic drain plug, and to not just siphon the fluid out. You want to check the drain plug for debris that might be an indicator of a bigger problem. You want to always check that as part of your service routine without exception. And there is a two word solution for the 8 rolls of paper towels: tin foil  It may be tougher, but it is the proper way to service the primary. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Turkey baster, plastic tubing, and derby cover baby! | ||
| Ara |
Newfie, I do the same kind of thing with a half-gallon milk container. It's reusable, too. | ||
| Newfie_buell |
I can see that working, I bet a paper towell tube, christmas paper tube with a cut out ont he end would work well. |
