| Author | Message | ||
     Silas_clone |
Not that it's cold, but itsa bout mid 50's around here. Anyway, the last two times I cold started my M2, it kinda farts thru the carb [typical sportster behavior], making a "geez I hurt the electric starter noise". I am not used to button starts. After it does this once, it immediately starts on the next push of "the button". I always start on full choke. My questions: 1. am I hurting the starter? 2. is there a "cold starting" drill? 3. Happy Thanksgiving! [not really a question] | ||
| Bake |
Starters are not made for 100% duty cycle!! Just use the start button for a few seconds (like 3) then let it cool a bit before giving it another jab. You starter will last a lot longer. | ||
| Silas_clone |
I don't grind it. When I first push the button on a COLD start, the engine kicks back with a cough thru the carb. [my kicker sporty does this when the prime isn't quite right] I let it rest, then it starts easily on the next push of the button. I am concerned that the cough is damaging the gear that engages the starter. But thanks. | ||
| Firemanjim |
Silas,has the carb been re-jetted?If not it's the lean slow speed jetting that is doing it.Ideally,your bike should be jetted so you don't really need a "choke". My S-2 starts right up with a couple squirts from the accelerator pump and I set the idle up with my throttle lock. | ||
| Silas_clone |
I dunno. Time to look. V&H muff and racy looking carbon AC would suggest yes, but I guess I gotta dig...? | ||
| Jackbequick |
The drill on the M2's (per the manual) is to use full enrichener and not touch the throttle at all. After mine starts I leave the enrichener full out for 15 seconds or so. Then I push it in and hold a fast idle by hand. It will usually pop back through the carb if I blip the throttle so I just hold a 1,500-2,000 RPM idle until it is warmed up. I like to do a full (2-3 minute) warm up and not ride until I have a stable idle. I changed to a #48 low speed jet and uncapped the mixture screw and set it at 2-1/2 turns. It made big difference in low RPM smoothness. Pick up a set of manifold seals and replace those while you have the carb off, it sorts of looks like those should be replaced every 2-3 years or so. Jack | ||
| Silas_clone |
That's how I start it. I did not have any trouble in warm weather, just recently. After it coughs and sits, maybe 2-3 seconds, it starts right away on the second shot of button. I don't mind the cough, I'm concerned about the starter mechanism. (Message edited by silas_clone on November 24, 2005) | ||
| Jackbequick |
I've never had mine do anything like that. It sounds like a backfire, the engine fires just before TDC and the piston reverses itself and goes back down, the inlet valve opens and that lights the atomized fuel in the inlet tract. As I understand it the tubers are pretty foolproof on ignition timing but maybe accumulated wear has your's firing too close to TDC. It could also be a starter or battery that is a little weak on cranking power so it is losing the cranking speed just before TDC. Mine occasionally sounds like I have a weak battery on warm restarts. It will be just a little slow on getting the piston through the first compression stroke and then sound normal. I've been told that that is not at all uncommon when the engine is warmed up and the compression is higher. Some of the high performance engine builders use compression reliefs to let the starter get the engine spinning better under less load. Jack | ||
| Silas_clone |
No problem with restarts or hotstarts. My parts guy says that there is little danger of hurting the starter. That's what I'm worrying about. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
What happens if you give it a squirt before you pull the choke and starter? | ||
| Silas_clone |
I will try it today...you mean give it a squirt from the accelerator pump? | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Yeah. My friend has an M2 and he seldom uses the choke. As a fellow refugee from ironheads, I only generally use the pump except for when it's been sitting for longer than a month. | ||
| Silas_clone |
That worked! I gave it two squirts, but still used the choke. Cold down here today. No burps, farts or other unpleasant misbehaviors! | ||
| Jackbequick |
Accelerator pump? Where is that at? I don't think I've noticed on on mine. Jack | ||
| Silas_clone |
no pump? went to look in the manual...there IS an accelerator pump... (Message edited by silas_clone on November 26, 2005) | ||
| Jackbequick |
Thanks John, I see it now. So if the float bowl has gas in it and you roll the throttle open a couple of times, I guess that will spritz a priming charge into the airway. I was thinking in terms of the manually operated tickler buttons that were on the carb body on the older Amal, Mikuni, etc., carbs. That pushed the float down and let the float bowl overfill. And if it stuck down, you could have gas steadily leaking out and dripping all over the place. Jack | ||
| Silas_clone |
Heck, I wasn't sure myself. Never did look at the manual for carb stuff. Nate, the prime trick seems to support the Ironhead behavior. Warm starts are the worst with my ironhead. I will try to prime with a squirt of the Bendix, if I ever ride the thing! | ||
| Blake |
I always give my Cyclone a couple squirts before a cold start after the bike has sat for a day or more. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
I love it when a plan comes together  |
