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Buell Motorcycle Forum » Old School Buell » Archives OSB 001 » Archive through November 29, 2005 » I Killed my Ironhead! « Previous Next »

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Natexlh1000
Posted on Tuesday, November 15, 2005 - 12:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I was blasting along on the highway at a "healthy" amount of speed and then it seemed to go into neutral. I thought that the chain popped but the chain was fine.
The tranny has crapped out in a bad way.
It made a bunch of scry heavy clunking noises and then I killed the engine.
I see no damage from the outside. You think the cases will be ok in there?
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Tsispyder
Posted on Tuesday, November 15, 2005 - 12:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Only one way to find out
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Chasespeed
Posted on Tuesday, November 15, 2005 - 01:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The tranny should be a "casette", like our Buells cases..right? I would think the cases are okay...UNLESS, you snapped you primary chain, or a sprocket came off...

Other than that, you have me...

Chase
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Tuesday, November 15, 2005 - 01:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I guess that I'll yank it out of the bike and bring it down to the basement for a teardown.
I was going to do a top end gasket deal on it anyways.
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Rocketman
Posted on Tuesday, November 15, 2005 - 09:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ironheads suffer from gearbox failure sometimes. Worse case scenario, and I forget which is common, but a gear breaks into pieces, often punching a hole or cracking the crankcase when it does. The broken gear falls to the bottom and the rotating masses force it to try and break through the case before you get chance to stop it.

Cases can be welded and individual gears can be bought cheap enough or deer enough if for instance you go Andrews.

Incidentally, the first 4 speed Evo Sportster, circa 1988, use to do this too.

I know. I was 'lucky' enough for this to happened first to my '73 Ironhead then later to my '88 1220 Evo.

It's not such a bad thing to fix to be honest but like I said, it's one of those jobs where you can make it more expensive if you so desire.

Rocket
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S2pengy
Posted on Wednesday, November 16, 2005 - 08:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My 67 has the repair section welded in the bottom where the speedo drive was... Common enough problem that a repair section is/was available...
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Wednesday, November 16, 2005 - 10:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

At least mine has a front wheel speedo.

Any ideas of how to get the sprocket nut off?
Am I going to have to cut it?

DaveS estimated that my X1 belt will be coming in tonight at least.
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Bigblock
Posted on Wednesday, November 16, 2005 - 06:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sounds like ya busted the tranny good, but might not be too bad.

My old iron sporty started jumping out of third. Tore it down, put it all back together, new geAR, STILL JUMPING OUT. Figured out the clearances were wrong, fixed it put back together. Test fired on the floor strapped up. It was stuck in a false nuettral, and poped into 3rd(!) and blew out the gear. Oh well. 3rd time was the charm, put a new gear and a new kevlar clutch fer good measure. never worked better...

When ya test fire, consider having the rear wheel suspended, and be REAL SURE you are in real nuetral! Don't be in a hurry like I was.

Drive sprocket?
Bend the locking tab washer out of the way, and use a good impact wrench. Probably whilst clamping the rear wheel. Make sure the bike is well supported, this has a tendency to turn the back tire if not secured properly. Alot easier with a good impact wrench.
Then you'll have fun getting the primary drive apart. Hope you have a good shop manual, it really helps.

There's a special tool that fits between the crank sprocket and clutch hub to lock it for removal, or you can fab something up like I did. Again, a good impact wrench is essential.

All the best, hope the damage was minimal.
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Bigblock
Posted on Thursday, November 17, 2005 - 11:34 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Left hand threads on the sprocket, if I remember right, it is for sure on evo, and that's what I remember on my iron sporty. It's only been arond 6 years since I did any major work to the ol sporty, and 5 years since I owned it!
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Denfromphilly
Posted on Friday, November 18, 2005 - 04:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You can buy the 38mm socket and a 3/4" to 1/2" drive at Sears Hardware stores for about $25.00. I used my impact wrench to loosen the nut, otherwise it would be very hard to loosen. Let me know if I can ship you the tools. Den
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Friday, November 18, 2005 - 07:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

38mm?! there's metric in that bike?!
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