| Author | Message | ||
     Silas_clone |
my clutch cable let go at the handle, what am I in for? | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
It's very much more easy than an ironhead. You'll have it done in less than an hour. | ||
| Chasespeed |
Yep, did mine, it took longer to order teh part, tahn it did to replace it.... T-27 bit for the derby cover, and do about a 1/4 to half turn on each screw until its off...and go from there..... No bad at all...took more time to get the clutch re-adjusted, than it did to replace it... Seriously, no stress...I have to printed instructions, I could email them to you...email me.. pixleyja at swift.navy.mil Chase | ||
| Jackbequick |
A piece of 2x4 under the stand will keep any fluid from running out when you pull the derby hat. Some (most?) of the lube will run out when you unscrew the cable fitting from the primary so you'll want a clean catch pan to put it back (or change it). That cable fitting to the primary is aluminum (should have an o-ring for sealing on it) so you don't want to over tighten it. Since you're going to have to adjust the cable, you might as well adjust the actuator screw to take up the wear in the clutch pack first (take it down to a touch, then back it off 1/8th to 1/4 turn and put the lock/spring on). The adjustment at the lever calls for 1/8" of free play where the lever contacts the mount. That is sort of hard to judge because the contact is sort of "soft". I set it to what I think is that and then adjust it a little longer if the clutch is dragging (bikes wants to move) or there is a lot of gear clash when I put it in gear. Jack | ||
| Silas_clone |
thanks fellas! | ||
| Silas_clone |
Barnett clutch cable...is it better than stock? this one has the teflon liner. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Dunno. My stock one lasted 50K. I figured why experiment? I just got another stocker. (they had it in stock anyways) | ||
| Chasespeed |
I went with stock...mine quit with something lieke 38k on it... The only otehr one I woudl consider is the Stainless Braided one from Drag Specialties Chase | ||
| Silas_clone |
Got one by accident! My local dealer ordered the wrong part # and comp-ed me the difference! Is my M2 now a chopper? | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Yes. You will have a TV show soon. | ||
| Oldog |
Wheres Nate?! Tell em to get to work!, gotta have this buell built before the commercial hahahahahahahahhahahahhahaha  | ||
| Silas_clone |
ok...so's i gets everything apart and install the cable. the braided cable is alot stiffer and i surmises that it ain't gonna make the bend to the clutch lever...so's i gets out the stock handlebars...so's the bar clamp [aka instrument panel mount] screws come out with thread...so's i gotta git out the taps an' chase 'em...so's i gets the bars off an' the neighbor whom i haven't seen in months 'cause i been workin' 7 days a week since August 12th hasta come over an' ask me whud i'm doin' so's i keep on working and explain that i hafta do this on my 1st day off in months but he don't take the hint so's he proceeds to tell me eveything i need to know about every subject but i keep on plugging and of course as i button up the derby the bottom torx pulls thread...so's i chase that one an' get a stud an' a acorn nut from the chopper stash an' use some loctite an' i hope it holds so he decides that he's told me enuff fer one day an' leaves...thank goodness 'cause it is now dark...but i git it all together an' fire up...shifts and finds neutral better with the proper clutch adjustment an' a lubed cable...who invented torx screws? BTW, i got a chance to see/sit on a ULY...looks a lot cooler in person than in pictures. Really high mount. almost made a down payment. (Message edited by silas_clone on November 12, 2005) | ||
| Silas_clone |
you guys have no sense of humor. I saw that wmv being sent around about about bat day...i was in character. what purpose do torx screws serve and ditto for threading steel into aluminum with loctite!  (Message edited by silas_clone on November 13, 2005) | ||
| Oldog |
easier to drive with air tools, Loctite the majic stuff that keeps buells' and their parts together, I prefer lard oil with a splash of sulpher and some tric 111 [ dark threading oil and the OLD version rapid tap ] with kerosene on the side for that tapping thing....... Things just work better when lubricated.  | ||
| Silas_clone |
i just use any old oil for tapping and drilling... I forgot about this stuff. I once used it to PATCH a leak where some sad fellow drilled the gear cover to try and install a repair stud for the oil pump in my flathead camcase and wound up nicking the gasket surface. it held up for years. Always used it to hold fastners to aluminum. 3M™ Super Weatherstrip Adhesive, 08001 I will apply this to those nasty little torx heads until i can find some time to work on it properly. I clean the surfaces with brake cleaner, let it dry, then smear a little on the fastner. Works over or under the bolt. 3M says that car pit crews use it to hold lug bolts on. The stuff stays flexible | ||
| Bluelightning |
Barnett clutch cable...is it better than stock? this one has the teflon liner. I got the Barnett cable. It didn't fit all that well. A bit with the tech support guys and they had me file the end down a bit that goes into the primary case. less than a hundred miles later the cable let go at that same end. seems that when I had to file the end down some to make it fit, I "heated the end causing it to come loose from the ferrul". Now Barnett says I need to pay to have it fixed or buy another braided cable. Needless to say, I put a new stock back on for much less and have no problems what so ever.. Heck with that Barnett junk!! | ||
| Silas_clone |
Blue, I didn't choose it and I think you are right about the stock cable. The braided steel looks ok, I guess. Never really understood the need for something like that, but I got it for the same price as stock. I wouldn't file the ferrule under any circumstance, but it fit fine down below and things were going nicely until I tried to bend it to the clutch lever. The whole thing reminded me of just how difficult it is to build "custom bikes" with "bolt on parts". | ||
| Bomber |
no such thing as "bolt-on," as Silas alluded we've got a rule of thumb in my house -- when some home-improvement product come back from Home Despot or the like, and the packaging has pictures of freshly manicured lady's hands on the front, I go out to the Entropy Lab, warm up the lathe and mill, and fill up the welding tanks, cuz it's gonna be a long day ;-} I've had no problem at all with the Barnett Braided Clutch cable I got 4 years ago -- but, clearly, other have -- | ||
| Silas_clone |
I don't know if it's my super duper braided cable, the fact that I re-routed it where the manual seemed to suggest, the fact that I lubed it before installation, or the fact that I adjusted it to manual spec, BUT GEEZ, the thing shifts a lot better! When I loosened the drive belt to "scary" , I noted a similar change, but this thing now "snicks" into gear! [2nd to 3rd is still more of a "clunk"] I really love this bike! Interesting sidebar...the stock handlebars are [or seem to be] more comfortable and seem to put me BELOW the windstream coming off that foo-foo fairing. PS- I lubed the cable by tying an oil-filled baggie to one end and hanging the cable from that end to allow the oil to drip down. Is there a less messy method? [this is how we did it back in the day] (Message edited by silas_clone on November 20, 2005) | ||
| Bomber |
silas -- check out: http://store.uncommonmotorcycles.com/cableluber.html or any one of a number of other offering (like from MotionPro) -- luckily for us, the "day" is long gone (though I wouldn't mind haviung my knees and high-freq hearing back ;-} |
