| Author | Message | ||
     Tunes |
I own a '99 S3 with 20K miles on it. I was riding on the highway, on the way to work in the morning and the engine just dies. I stop, turn the key off, turn the key back on, engine starts and off I go. It did this several times before I finally got to work. It was warmer in the afternoon when I rode home. Bike did the same thing on the way home except more frequently. It seems to fail more frequently when it's warm vs. cold. Other than this weird on-again, off-again thing, everything works. So far, everyone is blaming the Side Stand Switch. Only one person has mentioned the Bank Angle Sensor. Any and all input is appreciated. | ||
| Koz5150 |
The side switch and the clutch switch can easily be removed. Cut and splice the wires then you will never have to worry about it again and can eliminate those as possibilities. | ||
| Wceviper |
Not sure about a 99 s3, But I had a similiar problem on my 01 X1, Turned out to some loose nuts holding the the positive wire from the battery to the main fuse box. Check those first. I will post a pic of the area. I haven't had the problem since. I hear its common. | ||
| Mmmi_grad |
exactly I found my wires to the main fuse very loose , i guess they only reason nut were still there cause they were nylon lockers. It was either those or kickstand swith that wants to kill engine hitting a big hole. | ||
| Bruce_bueller |
Are your lights are going off before the bike dies, if not it could be an engine temp sensor. | ||
| Spiderman |
If it was a engine temp sensor you would be havin a lot more problems than off and on. Do what Koz said and get rid or replace your saftey switches. Make sure all your electrical is tight on the bat like stated above. If it was your ET sensor you would be having major stuttering, stauling and hesitation issues... | ||
| Tunes |
I've had the engine temp. sensor fail on both my S3 and XB... so I know how they affect the bike... and I'm very aware of battery terminal fasteners becoming loose. I check them all the time. As I stated, I've got 20K miles on a '99 that I bought new, so we've been togther awhile. I will first attempt to short the Side Stand Switch, since this seems to be the most likely culprit. Failing that, I will address the Clutch Switch. Thanks for your input! | ||
| Robr |
My '99 X1 had the ignition relay go with similiar symptoms. It plugs in at the fuse box so it's easy to swap out to see if that is the problem. It is a cheap part and is interchangeable with the starter relay, so it might be worth buying one and keeping it as a spare anyway. | ||
| Blackbelt |
Trust tony on the ET sensor.. we have 1st hand fun filled miles knowledge of this; i.e. my X1's ET sensor failed.. that was a fun 90 miles home. | ||
| Iamike |
Wouldn't the head temp sensor turn on the check engine light? Mine did when I broke the lead off and it was intermittent. If it was a power problem it would probably reset your trip meter. | ||
| Oldog |
Mike: not always mine shorted to ground mixture went waco no light ( that I saw ) did get a code when I knew that the prob was bad. the trip meter will prob keep readings to nearly zero pwr, and it is fed (x1) from instrument fuse (don't ask )  | ||
| Fatpony |
Will a bad sensor always make a code show up? I ask because my 02 X1 runs rich, coughs, seems to run on one cyl after the engine warms up. Plugs look black. No flashing of engine light, no codes come up after shorting diagnostic plug. TIA | ||
| Oldog |
Pony: Not allways, factory calls this a shifted sensor It sounds like the E.T. sensor.. | ||
| Fatpony |
Thanks for the fast help. I'll swap it out tonight. Thanks again! | ||
| Fatpony |
Swapped out the sensor, put hotter plugs in. Cranked right up, idled great, let it warm up for a few min. Rode 20 miles (very little stop and go, mostly 70-100 mph) NO PROBLEMS. Second run of day, cranked fine, warmed engine , rode 5 miles, engine started skipping and "cutting out" at low rpm's. Once above 4500 ran fine. Next stoplight idle up to 2000 slow to return to 1000. Stumbling and studdering until upper revs again. Pulled plugs and they're black and sootie. No trouble codes. Any ideas? TIA | ||
| Dustykat |
Look for your O2 Sensor wire to be chafing on anything. If it goes to ground it will dump fuel into the cylinders thinking it it overheating. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Yeah, My Oxygen senor wire wore through the black case paint in spots. I had to tie it up to some hoses to keep it out of the way. | ||
| Chasespeed |
Hey at least the battery didnt die on you during a trip.....an a X1 or S3(fi), that isnt fun... at least I want alone...lol..Right Nate... Chase | ||
| Fatpony |
New O2 sensor with good wire. Plugs and new sensor black with soot. Temp sensors? | ||
| Oldog |
Pony: do you have the FSM?  If I am following whats happening bike runs good cool, after motor reaches OT mixture goes rich, plugs sooty, bike bucks and stumbles at times? replaced ET?, Replaced O2?  check the engine temp sensor, chimney rear head, I had similar problem, IF mis handled it could be damaged, the item is fragile (lead wires), it can not be read by any ohms meter that I have the socket can be made for about 5$ if you have a vice and a hack saw (1/2" deep socket,cut a slot thru it full length for lead wire) just changed the O2, were the afv's cleared? what condition is the header mouniting hardware, the O2 sensor gets ground from the header, also a problem, there are a number of possibles et,&o2 are the most common, as Bomber would say look for the simple stuff first. | ||
| Fatpony |
Thanks for the fast reply. I've got the FSM, been following it, checking and looking before replacing. The more I read, the more it sounds like the "open and closed loop efi" system has something to do with my problem. Cranks great, runs great at higher rpm and speed, but slow down in traffic or from lights after a good warm up and it sounds like a bad 2-stroke. Always has run great until this problem started. Has a race ecm, gutted airbox with a inplace intake temp sensor, and D&D pipe. I bought the bike new and mods have been on for 2+ years and 6-8k miles. Thanks you again for your attention. | ||
| Oldog |
pony: you replaced the ET sensor? it stands to reason, In my pin head any way, that if it is not registering correctly then the mixture will be wrong at higher speeds (not WOT) the o2 sensor keeps things in order, when not on the o2 then cht (ET) throt posit, speed, and intake air temp are what are used with the map in the EFI. if the ET is known good, then look the harness over too, look at it this way the bike ran good for a fair amount of time, did the change creep up or did it happen one day BANG! MY ET went to ground and whacked the system runs fine one minute stumbles the next. chafed wiring will do this (explained above) the one thing that amazes me with the ECM is when the unit its self goes south how it could code, of course when its catastrophic then the code is nothing works. | ||
| Fatpony |
Haven't found any bad wires. Always ran great, except when kept 2000 rpm idle on occasion.Trouble did start all of a sudden. I'll order an et sensor and give a try. Thanks | ||
| Rammons |
Fatpony, Let me know how that works out for you because my '02 X1 is doing the EXACT same thing. I still have the stock ECM, but have the K&N air filter kit and as you know the D&D.  Give me a call sometime and lets go for a ride. I'm thinking another BBQ tour perhaps? Bob | ||
| Oldog |
Pony / Rammons let us know, Mine is just out of major maintenance, and has taken to back fire and stall, or back fire on throttle "jiggles" most likely a wiring issue or possible TP issue. These will be checked after the 3 year old battery is replaced. ride safe. | ||
| Fatpony |
Ordered an ET so it'll be awhile before next road test. Thanks for all the help. Bob, give me a buzz "to da office" sometime. |
