| Author | Message | ||
     Silas_clone |
I can pretty much recite HD models and years until you get me into the 80's, when the factory began building FSLTFATMAMAROADSTERLOWS and similar models. I was wondering about exactly when the M2's were born, their demise and the characteristics of each model year. My friend Dan told me that my model year, '99, was a good one. I looked for a '98 or '99 Buell on purpose as a result of my research, so I was pleased with that tidbit of info. Yesterday's ride was the first time that I felt like, "...gee, I could use a bit more giddy-yup...". Anyway, I've been half-heartedly trying to sell my Sporty and spare parts. That would leave room in the garage for another M2... | ||
| Djkaplan |
Key in Buell.com at this site... http://web.archive.org/collections/web.html First year was 97. All M2's are beautiful, but the first one was the leanest and meanest looking. The 2001-2 models are probably the best, though. | ||
| Dave |
'99s as well. Basically the same engine as a '98S1W. They were not plagued with the FI "issues" of the X1 and S3. DAve | ||
| Rex |
Love my 97 model. rex | ||
| Silas_clone |
If I wanted to step up the power, yet retain the M2 character traits [fun, mid range power], what would I do? Start cheap and easy...go to point of diminishing returns. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
A loud pipe that saves lives combined with a jet kit would probably be the best place to start. My friend's M2 with V&H and forcewinder pulls almost as hard as my X1. | ||
| Cerbero |
I'd agree with Nate... I've never compared it to an X1, but I've ridden a few XBs, and my old 97 M2 (with a V&H and Forcewinder/carb rejet) feels much more aggressive! | ||
| Silas_clone |
forcewinder? just a re-jet kit or something more? | ||
| Cerbero |
the forcewinder is an air filter/intake unit... check out my profile photo... it replaces the "breadbox" and is more knee-friendly than the "ham can". | ||
| Djkaplan |
I have a Forcewinder in my profile photo as well. | ||
| Jackbequick |
The dyno notes in the KV indicate that you lose a little power with a Forcewinder, but the guys that have them feel like they are gaining power. Maybe it is psychosomatic? I put a AFT billet air cleaner on my M2, with a 1-1/2" wide K&N, and it looks goods, works good, and the carb jetting was still right on. I'm happy with that. I don't think the AFT's are made any more so it fits in perfect on a tuber. Jack | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Forcewinder is better for fuel injected bikes. It does odd things to the float bowl vent due to Bernuli's effect. I only got mine since my kneecap smacks into the ham can style. I think I saw someone here with a teardrop S&S style filter installed backwards. I thought that looked great! | ||
| Cerbero |
i have mine for the same reason... when i bought the bike it had a carbon fiber ham can, but my knee was up against it all the time (i'm six foot four!) so i bought the forcewinder... i've heard several times that they're not as good as the ham can, but i've never noticed a loss in power, and my right knee is happy! | ||
| Djkaplan |
I never said or thought the Forcewinder gave me any noticeable increase in power. The rejetting that was necessary after I put it on did give me a noticeable increase in midrange and driveability, though. | ||
| Bomber |
any combo of intake/exhaust mods will still have an equally modded X1 pulling you down the straight at Blackhawk (or anywhere else, for that matter) -- it's the cams race filter or forcewinder will both net ya a little power/torque (according to the late, much lamented Battle2win) -- they also help fill the midrange dip in power, which is likely more trackable by the famous Buttometer . . . aftermarket can will loose ya some weight, and also add, alightly, to the power/torque gain realized by the air cleaner mods -- rejetting is mandatory in any case (heck, even if ya leave the intake/exhaust paths stock, y'aught re-jet the poor dear) even without the X1 cams, which move the power more to the top of the rev range, you can make up the lost ground in the backfield, and, with judicious blocking/roadhogging, get to the finish line in front of the pesky X1 ;-} | ||
| Jackbequick |
Sorry Dan, I wasn't try to say you said that. But sometimes that is stated or implied. They appear to be good for some HP on the eBay descriptions for them and the bikes that have them. :>  I can touch the AFT (spam can style) with my knee if I bring my knees in against the tank, but it is not painful or annoying. In my normal relaxed riding position I'm not touching it, especially if I've gone to the "calf feeling warm, knee slightly out" mode. With the breadbox, I touched a smoothly curved surface, on the AFT that sticks out a little more squarely but is not a sharp corner. My riding impressions and visible plug checks are my only reference for jetting now, the plugs are still in the safe color range and the slightly sooty layer at the exhaust outlet has stayed the same. The next time I have the carb off I am going to go up one step on the main jet just to see what the difference is, I like the thought of a little too rich better than on the lean side. I do very little full throttle acceleration or high speed riding. Jack | ||
| Devdawg |
Silas, If you're looking for a high flow air cleaner that gives you plenty of knee clearance, take a look at the billet cleaner American Sport Bike carries. It's moved forward to give extra room and incorporates a huge 3" K&N filter. American Sport Bike also sells a velocity stack that fits inside the filter. I run it on my M2 and love it. | ||
| Silas_clone |
I'm running a carbon air cleaner shaped like the ols 70's sporty setup. It has a good size, visible air filter. Cams? Well, maybe... | ||
| Silas_clone |
lemme ask you [all of you] this...what cam set would give improved mid range grunt and what else would have to be done to get that performance? I understand that re-jetting would be required. How 'bout ignition upgrades etc.? | ||
| Silas_clone |
and what about a shield or a fairing for hi speed touring...quick detach, of course! | ||
| Tripp |
silas, what kind of exhaust do you have? maybe somebody can corroborate; it appears that some dealers offered a race kit which, included the carbon fiber race filter, rejet, race ignition module (this is easy to identify it says "for race use only" , and the buell race exhaust, i think some dealers may have offered the v&h as well. if you don't have those items (buell race kit or equivalent) get them, a much better ride all around and a great starting point for performance enhancement. | ||
| Silas_clone |
got a V&H, & a CF air cleaner, think it was re-jetted... I thought I was pinging, but it was me lugging it...use octane boost, but not sure it needs it now, race module? gotta check. What makes this better? | ||
| Cyclonemaniac |
Biggest thing the race module really does is kick the rev limiter from 6800 to 7200.  | ||
| Koz5150 |
I have the race ignition, I noticed no real difference on the bike. My engine is 100% stock. I have added a Forcewinder intake (ported the brather hole, see the KV for more info), a WileyCo Exhaust, and had the carb rejetted. After dyno tuning my bike registered 78hp and 71 ft lbs of torque. But mor importantly, the engine runs smooth at all RPMs. I did notice a small amount of pinging when it was hot out, but I think it was due to bad gas. | ||
| Cyclonemaniac |
Silas, Buell offered the race kit as an accessory. Contents were as follows, race header, race muffler, C/F race air cleaner assy, and ignition module. A carb re-jet is mandatory or you will melt things! As for most bang for your buck, the race kit has a much better header design than stock. The race muffler is something of a nuisance. The packing will burn out at less than 1K and the internal perf. tube WILL rattle. Voice of experience here! The C/F air cleaner has a large surface area so it flows well, but the crankcase breather design pretty much sucks, er uh actually blows! The air cleaner comes with new breather bolts, some rubber hose and a tee fitting. The intended routing for the breather tubing is from the bolts to the tee and from the tee you stuff another piece of tubing in a hole in the air cleaner backing plate.  I bought a race kit and after running it for awhile, pulled the muffler off and made my own. I also totally re-designed the breather set-up. It all works well now, and sounds great to boot. As for cams, go with the Screamin' Eagle "B" cams. Very streetable, nice lopey idle, really hit strong in low and mid-range and don't do too badly on hi end either. I would highly recommend also installing the Screamin' Eagle performance valve springs and keepers. While not required, they do make a significant difference in keeping everything in contact particularly at higher rpm. | ||
| Tripp |
silas, sounds like you probably have the race kit, here's where to find the ignition module: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/3842/10398.html?1059591514 i suppose the next step would be slapping a mikuni on it, and or going with the lightning cams(the b cams, andrews n4), some people are very happy with the andrews n6 as well, both of which are bolt on jobbies. there is a fella named capt. kirk that raves about his mikuni/n6 combo, maybe that's the way to go. i have taken the slow road to power with a long term goal, so i've left the cams alone until i can get some headwork done with some bigger valves! | ||
| Kevyn |
Silas ...the Mikuni carb is a big difference and could possibly help with any low-end grunt loss from a cam change. Dyno-time is a good investment once you make the changes. From what I've read here on this board, the bolt on XB heads are the way to go unless you have a T-Storm top end; the domed pistons present some 'squish' issues that are not insurmountable but need attention. '97 & '98 M2's will be a good choice for XB heads. Cam choice could depend on your individual riding style and intentions. Stock cams give the M2 it's character--abundant torque low in the RPM's. SE bolt-in's from the T-Storm era will shift the torque further up in the rev band and give you some extra top end. If I was thinking of touring with an M2, I might be inclined to leave the stockers in or maybe go with the SE set and a Mikuni... You have to have adequate air flow for the cams to do their best work...race kit or Force Winder with a rain sock. The race kit exhaust headers work. I never had a problem with the Buell designed race muffler; easy to remove, easy to remove the rivets and replace the packing material. American Sport Bike sells a good quality material that seems to last better than any others. Industrial quality. Stick with the proven stuff and your life with a Buell will be simpler and you'll get more miles and smiles. ...no one has mentioned it so I'll weigh in; suspension set-up is critical to safe and enjoyable riding, especially on the M2's. If you can't get the correct 'sag' or are near the limits of adjustment for the forks and shock...get the forks revalved/resprung for your weight and intended riding style and make sure you have either the latest upgraded Showa shock or an aftermarket unit that's corrected for you. Have fun, be safe and welcome to the Buell community. | ||
| Silas_clone |
I think you are right about leaving well enuff alone. I think I'll just try to maintain...with a few minor adjustments. Maybe the next one will be a hot-rod | ||
| Rex |
97 M2. thunderstorm head and pistons Mikuni carb Force aircleaner in the stock airbox. S1 cams Vance and Hines exhaust Jagg Oil Cooler Race Ignition Six Speed Tranny REX | ||
| Silas_clone |
the '99s have the T-Storm heads, correct? |
