| Author | Message | ||
     Denfromphilly |
As long as we are on the subject of suspension set up does anyone have experience with the X1? Any process that I can follow to optimize suspension settings? Thanks Den | ||
| Mmmi_grad |
Not much here , however the previous owner of my bike gave praise to the owners manual instructions [he said he used to race bikes] and that kinda surprised me. If you got time to waste bother a dealer see if someone will talk to you, however thats a gamble too. This is something that requires time,study and patience plus note taking if you really want to get it right. Kinda like doing plug chops and such. Maybe in the spring ill get around to it  However its a must you at least set at generic setting per the owners manual ASAP. I can tell you that I heard that even a new Buell racer that was at road America during homecoming was having trouble giving feedback on handling, or dictating suspension adjustments.... so i heard, so i dont view this as anything easy either. (Message edited by mmmi_grad on September 15, 2005) | ||
| Bruce_bueller |
There isn't a weight setting like on the big twins. A) Unload shock by lifting up on the tail section. B) Take measurement from swingarm to tail lamp bracket and tail section. While lifting tail up. The book tells ya to use a welding rod 24" long. Position an o-ring as shown and, two more at measurement given. Could also use wooden dowel or any thing you can put a mark on.  C)Sit on bike. Bounce a few times to make sure its free and not binding. Bike should be balanced and under weight load. Not on stand. D)Intersection of tail lamp bracket and tail section should be between 2 lower o-rings/marks. If it isn't you will have to adjust preload.  Thats the rear. I will try to put front in as soon as I can. | ||
| Deltacruiser |
The manual directions are just plain confusing. I set mine up at a suspension seminar by Dave at CRS Tuning. It makes an unbelievable difference. Check this link to a bunch of how to documents you can download from his site. It is much easier (I think) from the manual directions. http://crstuning.com/tuning.htm | ||
| Denfromphilly |
I set my shock to the factory manual setting, 17.1 to 17.4 inch from the front shock eyelet bolt to the rear eyelet bolt on the old style shock. It handles much better BUT, my brother has an X1 and although mine will beat his in a race (he will deny this the liar), his clearly handles better. He has the new style shock and the suspension set up on his is better than mine. I could continue to grumble and wring my hands in a menacing fashion but feel that there could be another solution? Thanks Den | ||
| Crashm1 |
Den, It's now time to make an adjustment, record it and ride your favorite twisty road. Then make another adjustment, record it and ride your favorite twisty road. Compare. Repeat as neccessary until it behaves the way you desire. Also note that it is hard to tell if an adjustment has made a difference without being somewhere fairly close to the edge of traction unless you are just aiming for comfy, so it may be better to have a racetrack as your favorite twisty thus minimizing crash testing or ticket gathering. I personally like my bike set up with a little more shock travel than the factory setting with compression 1/2 turn stiffer and a 1/2 to 1 turn softer on rebound in back. In the front I've raised the forks in the trees 1/4" and have the dampening settings as stock. With my bike on my roads this gives me good feel for traction at the front tire and excellent forward bite out of the corner (at least it feels good to me). Unless you have access to a data recorder suspension setting are highly personal. If you do have a recorder, you test till you find the fastest set up and tell the rider to shut up and adjust to the bike. | ||
| Lemonchili_x1 |
I have a 2002 X1 and agree with above - the owners handbook settings are a good starting point. When I got my bike it was very twitchy/nervous and I found it had too much preload, maybe the previous owner was a bit heavier than me. I set the rear preload similar to the pics above - I use a stick to measure the height of the bike sitting under it's own weight, then set the preload so it drops around 30mm when I sit on it. (I think this gives a softer setting than the handbook.) From there I do like Crash says - take it to my favourite road and adjust to where I'm happy with balance between fast turning and stability. (I find the X1 is pretty sensitive here, I make changes in 1/2 or 1/4 turns of preload). I still have the forks at the standard height in the trees. For damping front and rear I've ended up in between the solo and fast solo settings in the handbook. I run 36psi front 40psi rear (cold). The other thing I did when I first got the bike was carefully set the wheel alignment. My bike has the newer shock too, so I don't know if any of that helps. How does your bike handle differently from your brothers? cheers, lemonchili | ||
| Denfromphilly |
Thanks all, I never considered raising the forks in the trees, I have been wondering if a stiffer spring helps or what the fork compression should be. Dan's bike just feels smoother and more natural than mine, you lean it over and it goes. Hard to describe, it's very natural the tires feel very grippy too. Mine does not handle bad, I was riding the twisties this morning and it felt great, but when I ride his I like it! I can still waste him in a race or coming out of the corners no matter what he says....  | ||
| Crashm1 |
Den I think if you measured static sag on both bikes you will find your brothers bike has a bit less preload (more sag). Since I adjusted my shock for the proper amount of sag it has gotten to feeling a little twitchier than it was. I'm a little uncomfortable but it goes around corners better so I'm trying to adjust my head. On a side note my girlfriend very soon to be wife (Saturday) has a 98 Ducati 900 SS F.E. and I finally got to ride it on some twisty roads last weekend. Every suspension engineer should have to ride a Duc before being allowed to fiddle. Very nice and communicative bike. The thing absolutely hates changing lines mid corner though, it requires a LOT of push to get it lean farther once it's taken a set. I think Ducs are growing on me, I may need one of my own. | ||
| Denfromphilly |
Thanks crash, before I bought my Buell I checked out Duc's as I always wanted one. I want a 996, 998, 999, but need a more robust wallet. They are so refined and natural and yet raw too. My bike does not like to change lines in the middle of the turn, it will do it when pushed but actually my Gold Wing is better at changes than my Buell. I plan my turns outside-in like they teach in motorcycle school and the bike will have plenty of margin around the turn. I get some criticism when riding in packs for taking up the entire lane but it's an ingrained habit anymore and hard to break. On left hand turns I'm kind of chicken to get too close to the apex of the turn. Too many morons cross the line and there is too little margin for error. On right hand turns the inside corner is the edge of the road so I have the entire lane for error. I will see if I can compare Dan's bike to mine and see the difference in set up. He also has a newer set of Metzler tires that feel softer and really grippy. They have a nice feel, ride and handling. Thanks, Den | ||
| Crashm1 |
"My bike does not like to change lines in the middle of the turn, it will do it when pushed but actually my Gold Wing is better at changes than my Buell. I plan my turns outside-in like they teach in motorcycle school and the bike will have plenty of margin around the turn. I get some criticism when riding in packs for taking up the entire lane but it's an ingrained habit anymore and hard to break. On left hand turns I'm kind of chicken to get too close to the apex of the turn. Too many morons cross the line and there is too little margin for error. On right hand turns the inside corner is the edge of the road so I have the entire lane for error." Hmmmm.... that's wierd, mine seems happy to change lines if I alter bar pressure. I also tend to late apex most corners and get it leaned as quick as I can because that allows me to start straightening the bike up faster which gets me away from the centerline and into the gas quicker. I'm going back to the Metzler sportecs after I kill the D205's I have on the bike now. The Dunlops are kind of numb feedback wise. If you still have the recall shock it might be an idea to get rid of it. |
