| Author | Message | ||
     Natexlh1000 |
I just got through replacing the frint wheel bearings on my X1 and they were like $8 each. I asked for the price of rear bearings and they said that they were $45 each and there were three of them! My rear hasn't crapped out yet but I would like to know if there is a cheaper alternative? | ||
| Denfromphilly |
If you have the stock wheels they take two different sizes in the rear. You will need two sealed 6205's on the pulley side and one 62205 on the rotor side. The 62205 is an odd size, wider than a 6205 and expensive. If you have PM wheels you need three 6205's. I found NSK brand sealed 6205's on ebay for $5 on buy it now. The hardest thing was removing the old bearings. You will need a blind bearing puller that you can rent for free at AutoZone. My bearings felt lumpy but after I pulled them they felt normal. I had to slap the living crap out of my bearings to get them out. I froze the replacement ones and heated my wheels in the sun to install the new ones, contracting one and expanding the other. I then tapped the outer race with a tack hammer and steel dowel. I used the axle bolt to align the spacer when installing the two on the pulley side, don't tap too hard or the bearings will seize! It all went pretty smooth. Good Luck! Den (Message edited by denfromphilly on August 30, 2005) | ||
| Patrickh |
Den, You weren't worried about crossing up the bearings in the hole? I think I would only do this in a press. I got a bandit that needs new steering head bearings and I'm terrified to do it. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
yes. I had the dealership do the front, I will have them do the rear as soon as I find outif I can get bearings cheaper or not. I have the "normal" painted rims. Castalloy? | ||
| Firemanjim |
Local bearing supply houses or auto parts store will have them. | ||
| Denfromphilly |
Pat, I don't know what crossing up the bearings means....this was my first attempt at it. It didn't take a lot of force to get them in, they dropped in at least 3/4 of the way and a little tap around the edges seated them. I used a metal dowel and the old bearing to seat the new ones. Actually, when they warmed up they had a lot of friction, I put the old bearing over the new ones an tapped the inner race...a total no-no. Yes, use a press! | ||
| Patrickh |
I have heard a horror story about trying to "tap-in" steering head bearings and having the race deform the casting so the bearings were not true once seated, making it impossible to mount the triple clamps. To fix it he had to cut off the front of the frame and weld on a new piece. I guess this story is weighing heavily in my mind. It has been keeping me from upgrading the wheel bearings, since I don't have access to a press right now. | ||
| 1badx1 |
I HAVE BEEN HAVING SOME NOISE OUT OF MY FRONT END I HAVE A 00 X1 WITH PM WHEELS I THINK IT IS A FRONT WHEEL BEARING DOES ANYONE KNOW THE PART # FOR THE FRONT ?????? IF SO ON A SCALE TO 10 HOW HARD AM I GOING TO PUNCH MY SELF DOING IT MY SELF ... ANY HELP PLEASE  }}} | ||
| Firemanjim |
Matt,not hard to do.Be sure and check your brake rotor for noise also.Here are the part #'s straight from the knowledge vault--- Castalloy Wheels - NSK bearings Front wheel - 2 ea 6204-2RS Rear wheel/Right side - 2 ea. 6205-2RS/Left side - 1 ea. 62205-2RS PM (Chrome) Wheels - NSK bearings Front wheel - 2 ea 6204-2RS Rear Wheel - 3 ea 6205-2RS When you remove and replace the bearings be sure to they go in/out evenly.Stick the new bearings in the freezer for a couple of hours and leave the wheel in the sun to heat up.I use a big azz socket just a little smaller than the bearing outer diameter to assist them in. Any good auto parts place should have them at a better price--and often a better quality than the stockers. | ||
| Mmmi_grad |
and if you dont have big ••• sockets I like the set i got at harborfrieghttools.com . comes with ratchet and breaker bar and about 12 all 12 point sockets probley around 50 bucks these days. Made in china but they work great for me and the bikes I work on. |
