| Author | Message | ||
     5liter |
Over the last couple of days Ive noticed the bike wanting to cut out at speed. It was just annoying at first, but now it got to me. Coming home today it was really cutting out. I was'nt too far from home when it started going bad and I made it back. The first thing I did was remove the side stand switch and wire nut the wires together. It seems to run fine now. Is there anything else I should be checking? The bike has 20,000 miles on it. | ||
| Dave |
Sidestand is a good start. Mine's gone out 2 times before I just bypassed it. DAve | ||
| Chopperboy |
I would suggest a TPS reset. My '02 was acting kind of funny and a reset cleared it up. Good luck. Todd | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
My sidestand switch lasted to about 30K. It is now a blob of solder. | ||
| 5liter |
Some follow up. I just got back from a test ride and it's still doing the same thing. I guess I've got more than a side stand switch issue. | ||
| 5liter |
Battery cables are clean and tight. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
I had an injector wire rub through under the tank but it was giving me an error code. Perhaps your header could be a bit loose? The Oxygen sensor needs a good ground in order to work right. Check for chafed wires leading to any of your sensors. | ||
| Raceautobody |
check your ground wires. sounds like what my X1 was doing. I had a broken ground in the bundle next to the circuit breaker Al | ||
| 5liter |
Runs fine for the first 2 or 3 miles then starts to stutter a little, then a little more in all gears. I'm leaning toward a loose wire somewhere. That should be fun to find! Enough for today. Going to have a "zesty" cola or two and take a break  | ||
| Dave |
Tank vent--open gas cap when it acts up Plugs & plug wires Intake seal O2 sensor head temp (?) sensor DAve | ||
| Oldog |
definately sounds like a temp sensor gets worse on warm up, but any of the above can effect it too | ||
| 5liter |
I've gotta get the trouble codes to see what's going on. Thanks for all the answers so far. | ||
| Tyronewildman |
Same here on my ’02 S3T (Engine lite was coming on & off & I was getting both error codes) till I replaced both O2 & Engine Temp sensor correctly. 3rd time for this same thing & 1st 2 were fixed under warranty. I know they didn’t torque the engine temp sensor correctly as I was able to remove it with long nose pliers. As Natexlh1000 said above, both sensors have to be tight enough to conduct the 5V current so they depend on a tite connection. The Engine temp sensor is same as a Chevy truck sensor (this was posted on another post) Bosch #12014 or A C Delco #AFS-20 & Advance Auto Parts had the Bosch sensor hanging up behind their counter along with a set of Metric Crowfoot wrenches-22mm needed. Neither sensor was expensive & I got the Engine Temp sensor from H-D. This sensor (in the top of the rear head) takes a 1/2 inch deep socket with a slot cut in the side of it for the wire so it can be tightened correctly (10-14 ft-lbs). I believe that an improperly tightened (probably with long nose pliers) Engine Temp sensor was the problem but it has run so good the following year I ain’t gonna install the old sensors to find out. Good luck to you…Later,,,De | ||
| Sleez |
also consider the voltage regulator, my wire frayed and did a similar thing as well, but most likely the temp sensors. | ||
| 5liter |
I got code 11 from the ecm. 11 is the tps code. All the connections are tight. I don't have the tool to read the tps output through its range so I cant tell if the voltage is going up and down smoothly. I did snap the throttle open 4 or 5 times then took it out for a test ride. No problems. I wonder if I have a corroded tps???? Oh well, looks like it's time to get a new one. | ||
| Oldog |
yep i would say so and you will have to get it zeroed, before you do that check the connectors and the PC splice thingy ( if installed ) go to wallmart get a volt meter (Message edited by oldog on August 12, 2005) | ||
| 5liter |
Oldog: No Power Commander installed. I'm going to get the Technoresearch program and do all the resetting myself. You had a good write up about it in another thread. My laptop has no serial ports so a PCMCIA card is in order, correct? | ||
| Oldog |
yes sir! I have never used the usb to serial, the feed back that I have gotten is kind of hit or miss and as long as the PCMCIA slot stays on note books the card & port move, If you have issues please let me know, I tout that setup, and I have used it with good results on other software in that you have the goodies commimg skip the volt meter the computer will tell you what the ecm is seeing( that is what is important ) you allready know that the throttle pot is iffy there is a trending function that you can play back a signal to look at so you could log the signal and with out trying to watch the computer watch the grip for a smooth turn instead.. on the cht probe mine went south, and only at the end did it code, also had the side stand switch go south, i had all kinds of mysterious symptoms these are my opinions, when you ask the "box" you will have a better idea one last thing 5L,a methodical approach is best some times WE in an effotr to help will list all symptoms and fixes (guilty here)sounds like you have it narrowed down,( you knew that ) good luck  (Message edited by oldog on August 13, 2005) | ||
| Jackbequick |
"I have never used the usb to serial, the feed back that I have gotten is kind of hit or miss..." I've had good luck with the USB to serial adapters that are based on the widely used Prologic 2303 chip. I have three of them (1 Belkin F5U109, 2 generic) and they all work on Win 98SE, XP, and 2000. I also have PCMCIA serial cards (RS-232 and RS-422) so I can usually get something to work. I occasionally mess around with marine GPS installs and have accidentally learned more than I thought I needed to know about those kind of things. Jack | ||
| 5liter |
Thanks everyone for all the helpful answers. I'm waiting for the software so Mr. Laptop & Mr. S3 can talk to each other  |
