| Author | Message | ||
     Silas_clone |
Been "researching" for about a year. Decided to go Buell. What should I do next? Got the manual, will do basic maintenence...but what M2 shortcomings should I address? | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Ride the crap out of it. | ||
| Whodom |
Hey Silas, congratulations. My 2 cents on what to do to a 1999 M2 (in order of precedence): #1 Make sure all recalls are done- (free at the dealer). Dealer can run bike serial number and verify the status. Some dealers are better about this than others, but they're all obligated to do it. #2 If the bike has 10k or more miles on it, check the oil pump drive gear at your next oil change. See the KV for details. Buell just came out with an improved replacement gear for this. #3 Upgrade the front exhaust mount if not already done. You want the "Y" type mount. See the Knowledge Vault for more info. #4 Upgrade the primary chain adjustment shoe to the 2001/2002 type. Again, see the KV. #5 Consider updating to the 2001/2002 shifter, which is supposed to be a big improvement over the 2000 and earlier unit. Costs about $100 for the kit. Bank makes an even nicer one for about $200. As far as I know, that will more-or-less update your M2 to 2002 specs and it should just require basic maintenance after that. | ||
| M2nc |
Hey Silas, My Bike of choice. Welcome to the madness. We ride in your neck of the woods (More like Chapel Hill) and we talk to others in eastern NC on Storm Fronts; C3 Carolina Corner Carver page. The BRAG club is through Shelton's HD/Buell. We started out of the Goldsboro store, but we are going to be at the Smithfield Store this Sunday at 11am for a BRAG picture. If you can make that way, it would be great. Welcome again. | ||
| Tramp |
"#2 If the bike has 10k or more miles on it, check the oil pump drive gear at your next oil change. See the KV for details. Buell just came out with an improved replacement gear for this. " Mine's never given me a lick of she-at....still the factory you-knit. | ||
| Oldog |
congrats & welcome | ||
| Silas_clone |
thanks to all...where's the "KV" located? | ||
| Silas_clone |
...and Shelton's is a "good" Buell dealer? | ||
| Whodom |
Hit "back" twice, and then look for "Knowledge Vault" under the list of main topics, or click here: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/3842/3842.html?1122457046 Check the "technical bulletins" down near the bottom for info on recalls. Oil pump gear stuff is under "Engine- Mechanical (the BIG parts). Might be easiest to use the search feature to find what you need. (Message edited by whodom on July 27, 2005) | ||
| Reepicheep |
How many miles? The new rocker box and primary cover gaskets are a huge improvement. Run your belt "scary loose". I adjusted mine so that sitting on the bike while it supports my full weight, I could reach down and pull the bottom run of the belt up to where it would touch the swingarm with just the hints of tension beginning. If you follow the otherwise outstanding manual for setting belt tension, you will be rebuilding your 5th gear drive assembly in short order >  Inspect the oil pump drive gear at whatever oil change comes around 12k miles, sooner if you *really* flog the thing. Check the knowledge vault for the full writeup. The knowledge vault writeups for carb rejetting are great, your main is probably on the rich side already (better then err'ing on the lean side) but the low speed jet is way lean and replacing it will make the bike run much better. Combined with the forcewinder and the supertrapp IDS, you have a sweet spot for a well behaved tuber. If you do get a forcewinder, make sure the vent is big instead of a slot (in the knowledge vault). I rerouted breathers several times, and never found a good setup that would not make a mess. In hindsight, I should have just gotten the forcewinder that routes them back into the intake and been done with it. Definately do the front exhaust mount. It will save you great misery with broken exhaust studs at some future date. Mobil 1 gear oil in the tranny should make a huge improvement in shifting. | ||
| Oldog |
Reep: I would not run the crank vents into the filter (alla the xr2) its said to be way messy!, Silas, Bill (Reepicheep) has the inside track on all things related to the primary and tranny, There are as many ways to vent the crankcase its a personal thing, every thing from rearranging the plumbing to changing the rocker boxes and using pcv valves, most of it is in the KV. If you decide to use banjo bolts get gaskets for them you would need 6, If no one told you from above the "KV" is an area of this board where Most technical posts go, particulary stuff like opening up the internal breather passage in a force winder intake elbow. look under "topics" other wise what reep said! | ||
| Rick_a |
You need a "lightning" cam. The XB breathers have worked great for me...I think the best breather advice is to use to separate hoses instead of T'd together...but that's a whole issue in itself. Screaming Eagle SYN3 is real smooth for the tranny, too. There's a ton of updates you can take from later models...the most important are listed above. That's one thing I love about these machines. | ||
| Kevyn |
Personally, I'd go for a Mikuni carb set up before re-camming. The M2 is allabout torque in spades. A well sorted Mikuni will yield a greater 'fun' quotient than cams. The M2 is plenty fast without camming up. IHMO... | ||
| Kevyn |
Oh yeah, there are no shortcomings on the M2 series. IF you have to address anything, search around for a way to re-valve the front end to suit your weight and riding style and get the latest and greatest Buell Showa shock for underneath or talk to one or more of the BWB sponsors for a shock to match your $$ needs. In many ways, the M2 is to the 'tube' series what the Ulysses will be for the X series; incredibly durable, competent at many tasks. Just keep the M2 on the pavement... | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
The forcewinder breather is worthless. It will spray your right leg and side of the bike. Route it to the street. | ||
| Bomber |
the forks were sprung perfectly for me, at 160/170 pounds. Course, that was during the Johnson administration (no prizes for guessing which one), and the interening years have resulted in my plimsol line getting closer ot the water -- (translated into street talk, I'm about 195 w/out gear now) heavier springs (1 or 1.1 kg) from Traxion or any one of a number of other vendors and the stock amount of 7.5 forl oil transformed the front end for me . . . again, the Knolwedge Vault is a great source of data for ya -- there is little you'll encounter that someone else ain't run point for ya . . . oil pump gears -- some wear quickly, some wear quickly and grenade the engine, some don't seem to wear at all -- they all bear inspection, and it's relatively easy (like tramp, I've got the stocker in my Y2K engine, with nothing other than normal wear visable) congrats on teh new scoot, and welcome to the silliness | ||
| Ceejay |
the first response you got is the best one, maybe some new footpegs(Aluminum will give better feel) and handgrips/gloves | ||
| Silas_clone |
at first glance... the stock over the top shift linkage seems to be a little "busy"...loose nylon bushing. Iwould like to update to new style and will... finding neutral seems to depend on simply blipping the throttle with the clutch engaged...my old ironhead has a "clutch tamer" installed, anything similar for 5 speeds? when returning from a run, the primary "area" seems to get noisy with the tranny in neutral and the clutch ENGAGED...no noise when cold?? do these things really go 5k between oil changes? at first it seemed like there was a need to downshift more often than with my venerable ironhead...i see now that you can "open 'er up", the added power replaces flywheel effect. It will ping, but the power! can you lug these things like a Sportster? the engine harmonics seem to favor a certain rpm...can you tool around in lower gears for extended periods? I always felt that my Sporty needed to be in 4th as often as possible. the oil pump gear thing...no gear timing involved? the belt drive...i like it but now i mistrust it...i don't want a tight belt to smoke my tranny!!! I will run it loose, but will it come off? I am an old guy...51, so no wheelies, etc., but this thing is like viagra!!! | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Silas, The M2 with the stock Keihn carb should not ping! Make sure the carb mods are done and jetting is correct. I run Mobil 1 V-Twin in my S2 and M2. My change interval is about 3K miles. If your having problems finding neutral, check your primary chain tension and clutch adjustment. Noise when warm is probably the primary adjuster or the chain is loose. A cracked adjuster can cause shifting problems and noise. You will find the 2001 shifter upgrade is a big improvment. Who's first post is a VERY good place to start. Brad | ||
| Denfromphilly |
Neutral can be hard to find if the little pins slip out of the shift drum, kind of a common problem (feels crunchy too) or if there is too much fluid in the primary. Use 24-28 ozs and not the recommended quart. People here like synthetic like Mobil 1 and another called Red Line from Summit. Good Ole HD synthetic is probably a good choice too. The engine can also leak into the primary causing the same condition of too much fluid but usually comes out the overflow onto the muffler/tire. The primary on my bike is always very quiet. Change the fluid! I change my oil every 2k or so, 5K with 2.5 quart of oil and high perf..crazy or what? My belt drive is set to be lose with me sitting on it, I can reach down and lift it to the swing arm with minimal resistance. No slipping at all and I am 46 and pull the occasional wheelie. You can lug it but I keep my bike about 3,000rpm. It seems to be happy. You should try to avoid pinging, my pinging went away when I did a TPS reset that made it richer, (mine is fuel injected). There are factory fan kits but I also like cheapie 12v computer fans for $10. Don't understand the oil pump gear timing question. Some of the pinion gears go bad very fast. It is strongly advised to check at about 10,000 miles, problems like a stripped gear, metal in the oil and starvation/trashed motor have occurred. Good Luck, Den | ||
| Tramp |
OK- first, sounds like you need to adjust your primary, although you may also need somje clutch work. pi9nging can (and will) occur with any carb, if the gas is bad or, at least, substandard. denfromphilly says people here like synthetic trans oil, which most do and should- this here people does great with the factory recommended sport-trans organic. oddly, I've have had NO problems with my trans for the past 214,000 miles. I have only run organic oil in my engine, who's innards (top included) have not seen daylight since '95 at the factory. I'm not ripping on synthetic, by any means, I'm simply sharing my experience. as to the oil pump gear...maybe S2s didn't have that issue, mine is original, as obviated by the preceding sentence. Run your belt loose, mine has been wonderful, the factory unit went over 200,000 due to a nice, loose fit. The Tube-frame Buell is a very able and adept beast. my S2 has proven to be the most reliable cycle I've ever owned, and I come from a strong BMW background. I love it when these tourhead BMW guys look at my bike and tell me I should have gotten a BMW, as "it looks like that buell is falling apart" (see profile pic of 3 years ago). when I explain the mileage, both in engine terms and statute, and tell 'em how little I've spentb in maintenance, and ask them how much each of their service intervals cost (I fortunately know the BMW models' service intervals and requirements..can you say "yikes!"?) , they become either more polite or more p*ssed off. believe me, you just bought a thoughtfully designed motorcycle with an unparalelled grin coefficient. congratulate yourself congratulate yourself with extreme prejudice  (Message edited by tramp on July 27, 2005) | ||
| Silas_clone |
oldtimey HD's had to have the oil pump timed 'cause it also housed a breather... neutral is easy to find...just a blip of the gas and she clicks. But I need to get into the clutch/primary, etc. one ping from very low rpm to "getting it on"...but you say no pings, huh? V&H exhaust and K&N filter the belt seems to be tighter than described here | ||
| Tramp |
...er... okay ...so loosen it um...I didn't say'no pings'...actually in hot weather and/or with low-grade gas, they'll ping. mine pings in california in hot weather(can you say "california gas"?) and it never ever pings here in ny (can you say "good gas"?). drain your gas into a can for mower use, go to a gas station, drop a bottle of octane boost in, then fuel up with the good stuff. beat on that puppy and call me in the morning. the bike is SO simple, it confounds the internet experts. | ||
| M2nc |
Silas, Shelton's is a good dealership period. I believe they have a store in Durham now and a salesman by the name of Dave works there. I do not know how the service department is there, but Goldsboro has always done a great job. Ask Dave's opinion of the service department, I believe they are up to the task. | ||
| Kcmojo |
Hello board, I just got one too, a 96 S2. Real nice, dark red with PMs. It's my second Buell (first was a 98 S1W) See ya around! | ||
| Silas_clone |
I just went for a 40 mile cool down [100' here today] to try and "notice" things. Came back and checked belt...very tight with me on the bike...will loosen it asap that plastic doo-dad covering the tranny spocket..umm...tranny pulley, is that necessary? 1 ping lugging the engine in 5th, then rolling on hard...just need to downshift...running 93 octane. Will add some booster. upshift into 3rd is a clunk... clutch rattles in neutral with clutch released and hot at idle. will check the clutch adj. V&H muffler is hung from L-shaped hanger...will upgrade This thing is a Sportster on Steroids! I love it. thanks to all 4 advice...feel free to keep it coming | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Dammit! I thought I was Captain Hero for having 56000 miles. For some reason, my isolators are still ok. I also came from having an ironhead. Certain aspects of these aluminum bastards are actually much more easy than the old iron. Like I just replaced my clutch cable and I didn't have to take off the primary cover. Also, not having to adjust the valves EVER is nice. | ||
| Silas_clone |
Ironheads are the most under-rated bikes ever. 30 years ago it seemed like everyone wanted one. Very misunderstood and maligned. Kick starting is not too bad either. I like my iron. I have not ridden an EVO Sportster. I looked at several Sport models but it did not make sense to go evo Sportster when considering the advantages that a Buell offers. I looked at bikes and spoke with mechanics from Maine to NC. The mechanics seemed to like the Buells... | ||
| Tramp |
Nate- my isos didn't go bad until the past 10-15K miles. You should be fine for some time. Silas: here goes: (what you said is in quotes) "Came back and checked belt...very tight with me on the bike...will loosen it asap" A: Do That. "that plastic doo-dad covering the tranny spocket..umm...tranny pulley, is that necessary?" A: Absolutely not. I lost mine somewhere in wyoming in '99 and never looked back 1 ping lugging the engine in 5th, then rolling on hard...just need to downshift...running 93 octane. Will add some booster. A: The booster will definitely help, it should also scavenge any water which might be in thar'. Also, the past owner may not have twisted that puppy's tail enough, doing so could decarbonize things and reduce ping, as well. upshift into 3rd is a clunk... clutch rattles in neutral with clutch released and hot at idle. will check the clutch adj. A: I sincerely hope it's simply an adjustment issue, although it Sounds slightly spooky. Don't rule out a clutch replacement. Sounds like one in your near-future. Drop the fluid and replace a the quart. I dig sport-tran, I actually use a spectro knock-off of the Harley stuff. Just use a nice, narrow trans funnel and fill through the little 2-screw hole above the primary inspection cover that the book says to remove. ignore that. Put a quart in, no need to check the level. It takes a quart. If, for some reason, putting one quart in after draining the whole thing, you have bigger troubles that a slight level issue, and said level issue won't matter much.  Sound slike you're on the road to running a wonderful machine, man! | ||
| Bomber |
silas -- re: pinging -- also check yer carb (as there's no reason for the timing to have shifted -- once properly set, it should stay there unless there's been some operator induced error) -- if you've got an aftermarket can/aircleaner, most folks find a 185 to 200 main jet, 45 (in rare cases, 48) pilot jet, and turning the low speed screw out approx 2.5 turns from seated will getcha in a good place -- as with any engine/carb, further fiddling may increase the joy, but this'll getcha in the neighborhood even if the exhaust and intake are stock, it's still worth it to adjust the screw -- mine was WAY lean from the factory (thanks to emissions standards), and the little dear woke right up after I adjusted the low speed screw -- mine will ping in stoopid hot weather (round 100), specially if I'm luggin it, as you've noticed on yours -- ocatne booster will help thatm as will not luggin it {insert smiley here) as Tramp sez, the little plastic pulley guard thing going away won't hurt a thing, unless you, from time to time, get all spiffed up in your niuce elephant bell bottoms, in which case, I'm thinkin ya got some more issues to work through trans fluid -- some folks add a quart and smile all the way home -- others (like me frinstance), if a full quart is added to the primary, shifting gets a little wonky, and neutral gets tough to find when stopped -- me, I pour it in til it just touches the gear teeth (visible with the derby cover removed), and shiting/neutral finding is fine, and the primary shows no ill-effects fron not having the extra 3/4 oz of fluid -- just make sure the scoot is level before popping the derby (piece a round stock through the rear axle and a couple of suide-special jackstand work great for this) adjust yer clutch soonest - should be makin any noises at all -- the good news is that it's ez to replace, yes? enjoy |
