| Author | Message | ||
     Angushendrick |
I know this is a real common problem and I discovered that I have it when I went to change the oil in my primary. The mount is completely broken and the can is cantilevered from the front mount. 1. What are the consequences of ignoring this (living with it)? 2. What are my low cost options to repair this, if any? 3. What are my low cost options for replacing the can? Thanks, Angus | ||
| Oldog |
Angus: #1 may be, pole vault! don't ignore this brother , this is an ugly getoff, Wycked Flesh did this not too long ago. If you went down in heavy traffic .......... damage to other parts if you don't vault #2 pull the can and mount run them to your favorite welder, your an M.E. you probably know several good ones #3 Super Trapp, They definately stand behind the product, 1 year warranty on new system, its stainless, and tuneable. new ones are on e-bay from time to time, make sure that it's the "new one" and that its new in the box with papers. | ||
| Unibear12r |
The rear mount broke off my V&H muffler on my S3 and I refabed a new one and had a buddy at work weld it. That thing wouldn't ever break again! Of course now the bracket it mounts to is broke in half, the front mount on the pipe has cracked and started pulling out a chunk of the tube and the header pipes have a six inch crack in them. I now get to replace everything! Btw header pipes for a 99 S3 from Buell are about $450 alone. I believe my mistake was two fold. I needed to have some kind of rubber isolator/spacer between the muffler mount and the bracket (missing so I didn't know) and the front J bracket on my 99 needed to be upgraded to the newer inverted Y bracket. Al at American Sport Bike is one of the guys who can give you some helpful advice here. Just saw Wycked not long ago and what happened to him wasn't good at all and could have been much worse. Not bad mouthing the V&H muffler as I really liked it but you have this problem on tubers in general and have to be careful. | ||
| Koz5150 |
Buy a WileyCo. They stand behind their product 100% lifetime! | ||
| Angushendrick |
I have the front inverted "Y" bracket (good news). And a buddy of mine has a welder (more good news). But I'm gonna have to weld myself (recipe for disaster). Does anyone know what the right filler material is to use? Interestingly, the existing installation had a metal-to-metal installation, with no spacer. Looking at the joint right now, there's nearly 1/2" of space between the mount point on the frame and the (broken) mount point on the muffler. There must have been a lot of stress in the joint. A spacer is required just to make the joint. Some sort of rubber sounds like a good idea. Hopefully that will help save that joint and prevent problems at the other joints. As a more extreme measure, I'm also thinking of redesigning the mount so that instead of the highly constrained and fatigue prone configuration it was designed with, there's more inherent structural flexibility. Two vertical plates that weld to the can and then bolt to the sides of the existing frame mount provide more lateral flexibility, and I think be easier to install and remove, than the existing mount. | ||
| Angushendrick |
My new plan is to mechanically reattach the can to the frame with a few bolts, a couple pieces of sheet aluminum and some rubber spacers. However, when I got the can off, it noticed that it rattles. I presume this is not right. Is it time to give up and get a new can, or is it yet possible to repair a rattling muffler? Angus | ||
| Tripp |
this all happened because the baffles crapped the bed in your can causing excessive vibration! i spoke to V&H about this last year, apparently the packing in the muffler helps keep the can from damaging vibrations, when the baffles start rattling around in there it's time to get a new one! the baffles can be ordered out of any parts unlimited catalog from just about any multibrand bike dealer, i think american sportbike has them too. there were two available when i bought mine, a street baffle rated at 80 decibels and a race baffle rated at 105 decibels, they are about forty bucks. unfortunately by the time i replaced my baffle my exhaust was already close to beyond repair, i also had the old front mount which helped to kill the muffler, i just finished installing a force pipe today sounds great, i made sure i upgraded my front mount before putting the new pipe on. | ||
| Jlewis50 |
My mount failed also. I had it rewelded. The bolts that hold the mount to the undercarriage. They weren't tight enough. Make sure the mount doesn't move when attached to the undercarriage. Also make sure you have the Y mount for the upgrade. Since the weld and upgrades I made i haven't had any more problems. | ||
| Kccyclone |
I also changed my primary fluid today and discovered the same deal...Looks like my welder has another project. | ||
| Unibear12r |
My buddy used a TIG machine and aluminum rod is all I know. The new muffler mount I made out of 1/4 inch AL diamond plate. Sense there is no rubber spacer normally my problem may have been just that I didn't get the mount height right and created too much stress. A rubber spacer might help but if it puts the can at an angle that creates stress that would be bad. My can rattled too but just getting a repacking kit took care of it temp wise. The internal tack welds had all come loose but it all slipped together and was held by the packing. | ||
| Unibear12r |
The rivets at the back of the SSR can are actually screws and the repack kit is cheep while a new muffler is about 3 bills. It's not hard to do. | ||
| Lowelltroll |
My '00 M2 came with a V&H on it, replaced with a Supertrapp. You can have it for the cost of S&H, if I can find it 8)! | ||
| Doum2 |
Those of you that have the y bracket upgrade; was the install a big deal? I cant picture it right now but doesn't that muffler mount attach to the/or is the mount for the suspension? How much are those upgrades ? Think I remember checking when I first got my bike and the parts dealer told me $150.00 but he could give it to me for $100.00 . BTW mine has broke twice and I've had it welded, I had to fashion my own concoction for a front mount but seems to be doing well, going on 2500 mi. | ||
| Gundog |
Make the switch. Like you, I avoided changing over, thinking itwas a difficult chore. Installation took me about an hour. Before the switch, I went through stock bushings every 500 miles. Then I switched to the American Sport Bike urethane. They were better, but still required constant attention, and adjustment. After my third urethane bushing wore out, I gave up. Now, other than a pre-ride inspection, I haven't had to bother with the exhaust. I wish I had gotten it done when they were free at the dealer. | ||
| Al_lighton |
The y mount is a worthy upgrade. I removed attractive polished L mounts on both my S3 and S1W to make the upgrade and do not regret it. Not too difficult to install, but it does require suspending the bike in some way to unload the rear suspension since it uses the same bolts as the front shock bracket. See here. This is the Buell kit, and i include the service bulletin that went along with it (that Buell doesn't include in the box for some reason) If you install one, do NOT skip the step where the say to scrape a little bit of paint for grounding. Al | ||
| Daves |
Thanks for the business Angus, you're going to love your new D+D! | ||
| Denfromphilly |
I gotta busted rear mount on my V&H SSR2 again...Ok, who makes a muffler that will bolt up to my header, run like a banshee and not cost a fortune. If I don't need to remap the FI is a really big plus. Not loud enough to wake the dead is good but not an absolute requirement...Den 99X1 |
