| Author | Message | ||
     Ztferrari |
 when i went to take the stator off of my 95 s2, i found the 4 bolts that hold the rotor on the front sproket assembly were sheared off and just hanging out on the rotor magnets. Along with the sheared bolts, the 4 allen screws holding the stator to the crankcase were badly bent.  Upon removal of the stator, i found much more worse news that just a messed up rotor and stator. The front sprocket assembly seems to have cut grooves in the crankshaft rod splines of about 3/16" and is extremely loose, along with having the 4 bolts sheared off flush with the backside of the sprocket. Now i don't know what to do. I've already bought a new stator, and realize i can buy a new sprocket and rotor but I am worried about the splines on the crankshaft and looseness of the sprocket on it. I do not believe that the nut can provide sufficent clamping force to prevent the splines from becoming even more galled up. Has anyone heard of this happening before? I just recently got the bike together after fixing a bent valve and am afraid I can not fix this without tearing the engine apart with a new crankshaft, and on that note, i would still not feel comfortable with the reliabilty of this engine even after that. Is my only option a new engine? and if so, does anyone want to buy a very nice 95 S2 thunderbolt with a blown engine? thanks guys, you were right on the money about my stator being blown, but this blew my mind when i tore it apart tonight. thanks guys, you've been a lot of help already and im down in the dumps about the buell because its given me nothing but pleasure and pain. | ||
| Reepicheep |
That sucks that the sprocket held up better then the crank. A new stator and sprocket housing could easily go another 20k miles, I wonder if you could bond the new parts on the crank somehow (weld, pin, jbweld, whatever) and just stick it all together, then just pray the stator holds out as long as possible. I know it sounds crazy, but I wonder if you got good enough epoxy to fill in the damaged splines, then torqued the hell out of the nut on reassembling, if it would hold together? The epoxy would not really be bonding anything or be structural, it would just be serving as a wedge to replace part of the missing splines. For that matter, I wonder if you could assemble, then pound in metal wedges to replace the damaged part of the splines, then torque the hell out of the nut then. Or some combination of those two approaches. I'd probably try it before I just pitched the engine. (note this is just speculation... I know nothing of what I speak) | ||
| Buelliedan |
My best suggestion is to call Aaron at NRHS and see what he thinks. If anybody knows what to do he would. He might even have some used parts or know where to get some. | ||
| 1313 |
I had similar (although nowhere near that bad) chewed up splines when my crank nut decided it didn't want to be tight any longer. The advice Gary Stippich gave me was that if the splines are chewed up, the flywheel assembly should be replaced. He said that if the damage wasn't too bad I could nurse it for the rest of the season and then replace them over the winter (I hardly remember those days...). That is how I ended up with the original lightened flywheels (from the S1) in my S2 (S1 parts were cheaper). If you are concerned about the reliability after replacing the flywheels, I have over 59,000 miles on my S2 since I replaced the flywheels. Also, at the same time I added the T'Storm heads and pistons, high flow oil pump, windage tray, race air filter and exhaust to further increase the power output of the engine. My advice - I would not trust just the clamp load produced by the nut, so I would replace the flywheels (and the other damaged parts) and enjoy the hell out of it. I've done it and I am still doing it! 95,000 miles and still going strong! 1313 | ||
| Firemanjim |
Check these parts out on eBay-- http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=35572&item=453 2807197&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW You just missed some M-2 flywheels fairly cheap. | ||
| Madduck |
The parts you are repalcing are not made of gold. Find someone who rebuilds bottom ends on sportsters, there are a lot more of them than you think. Aaron Wilson would be my first choice, but most of us don't live next door the the "best choice". At this point I would decide what sort of power you want. Light crank equals quicker throttle response, heavy gets you engine braking. For sure talk to Aaron or any of our sponsors, The other I personally know would be Pammy/Wes Brown at Cycle-Rama. Good advice from someone who has been in your spot is what you need now. | ||
| Chris_mackay |
Why not just replace the shaft? It's not really all that bad a job to take on in a garage. The hardest part is pressing the crank out of the left-hand side of the case. There's no reason to go with a whole new crank assembly unless you're after the lighter flywheels. And reliability afterwards will be as good as the care taken in reassembly. Otherwise I'm ALWAYS looking for bikes with "blown" motors like that! | ||
| Ztferrari |
Yo guys....I've decided to bite the bullet and take on the task myself. I am in the process of dropping the engine but I am not quite sure what route I am going to take yet. I figure that following the FSM procedure, Getting the flywheel out isn't that big of a deal (just splitting the case and press out the flywheel), but I am a little uneasy about what all to repair and or fix while i have the case split Most likely, I am goin to buy a new flywheel assembly from HD (unless I win that ebay auction for 50$). If i wanted to get a lighter flywheel assembly, which one would I go with? Im looking to drop 760$ through harley for a new flywheel assembly(for a 95 sportster), do any of the newer models have a better or lighter flywheel assembly? Also, while im getting down and dirty, what else should I replace? races/bearings/ect or anything important in the tranny? Thanks guys, and i apologize for my bad attitude in my original post...I was just upset with my girl and speaking out of my arse. | ||
| Firemanjim |
Check with Aaron at NRHS for flywheels if you don't win that one.Or bite the bullet and get S&S set,it will certainly depend on how much you have to spend.1250 kit is a bolt on.XB rocker covers and breathers is about 100.00,updated oil pump,new seals for crank,output shaft,make sure you have new style primary shoe,new intake seals.Good luck. | ||
| Ztferrari |
well, it took me about 5 hours to completely strip the bike and im definately realizing that it isn't that bad of a job at all, the FSM just makes it out to be much worse than it is. After talking with a few of the harley shops in town, i have come to the conclusion that there are not many people involved with corporate HD that know much more about these bikes than bolting on chrome and bullshitting with old rich guys. and worst of all, it is even harder to find someone knowledgable about buells, sadly.   | ||
| Firemanjim |
Hey,Scott.I have an S-2 looks pretty much like that in my barn.Though this time I left the swingarm on it.I'm getting pretty good a stripping these things down now as I have done mine 3 times and the race bike once. | ||
| Road_thing |
Nice parts chaser... I thought all Aggies drove pickups? rt My son is an '00 grad... | ||
| Bomber |
ZT --- the good news is that many of the motor parts are common to sporties -- of course, the best thing is to get the data from a knowledgable source (like, oh, say, here {grin}) and use the dealership as a parts depot there are, rumor has it, some indie shops that speak buellish, as well -- locations vary from day to day, as these things will, but they can be a good source of infor/parts |
