| Author | Message | ||
     Wolfridgerider |
it was a little dry and not as pliable as it should have been. I'm kinda surprised it was leaking... I also pulled the cam cover off to check the wear on the shoe. It had a little groove cut into it but not bad. But a set of gear drive cams and a self adjusting primary chain tensioner have moved up the list | ||
| Tootal |
Harley's self adjusting tensioner, which I have, has been causing some issues with ratcheting under heavy decell causing the chain to be too tight which is wearing bearings in the clutch and crank. I'm going to change mine out to the Hayden M6 since I already have one. There's also a nicer one that's more expensive but has a hydraulic shock absorber built in that looks really nice. It's here: http://sohotbikes.com/hb125.html The Hayden can be had here: https://www.amazon.com/Hayden-Enterprises-Inc-Prim ary-Tensioner/dp/B000GRTFF8/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&hv adid=77996660390512&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvqmt=e&keywo rds=hayden+m6&qid=1608480981&sr=8-2&tag=mh0b-20 | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
I think I would go for the Hayden. Looks a lot less complex... a shoe and a spring. Can't get much more simpler than that. | ||
| Aesquire |
The stock Buell petcock on my Cyclone goes to reserve with about 2 gallons remaining. I rather like having nearly a hundred miles to go so refuse to change that, but I do have to remember I'm on reserve. My Yamaha 750 had a vacuum petcock, and when the gasket/diaphragm failed, filled the crankcase with gas. I start up, bike's running rich & stumbling, so I figure it needs to "warm up & clear out". 50 feet down the road it pukes oily gasoline all over my legs and still cool headers. That took multiple oil changes & Marvel Mystery ( for insurance ) plus a petcock rebuild to fix, & no obvious damage. Oh, and a few bucks at the spray gun car wash to degrease with brake cleaner. Those pants? You want to not just throw them in the washing machine. DAMHIK. | ||
| Tootal |
I had the Hayden on my old 91 FLHS and that bike shifted better than any other Harley I've ridden. Then again, the trans had over 100,000 miles on it. I guess it finally broke in! I'm missing my petcock. Since I went to fuel injection I'm supposed to have a low fuel light. I ran out of gas pulling into a station the first time. The next I was on the off ramp of the interstate. It died and I leaned it to the left to get more fuel near the pick up. It fired and I had to ride almost a mile to a station. I'd ride up the hills and coast down the hills but I made it. I tested the light and it's good, just not getting a signal. That means taking the pump out of the tank and replacing the sending unit. Well it is the never ending saga! | ||
| Greg_e |
I've had my 05 pump out, one of those things where you pull it apart and replace filters and in tank line while you are doing stuff. I think I changed my pump while I was in there too. Make sure to buy the new screws and screw seals, those are supposed to be a one time use thing to prevent leaks. And yes pulling that unit out was a pain! | ||
| Buellish |
Greg,I've run Hayden in 7 different Buells and always had good luck with them.Some people don't like them, notably Aaron Wilson used to rail against them,he even had a rant about Haydens on his website. | ||
| Tootal |
Do they make one for the Uly? I'd love to add one to it. Never had any problem with them. Greg, when I converted to fuel injection the tank and fuel pump were bought separately. I had to install it and it was used so I cleaned the filter and replaced the hoses and installed. I didn't check the low fuel sensor. Didn't even think about it at the time. Oh well. | ||
| Greg_e |
How long ago was the conversion? You'll at least want to change the o rings where the high pressure tank fitting connects to the line going to fuel rail. I didn't and had to pull things apart again. Couldn't get the rings out and finally went for new hose/fitting. But it had pen in there for 10 years and 58000 miles, assuming the jerks didn't change the speedo when they butcher repaired the front fairing. | ||
| Screamer |
I tried one of the Hayden units several years ago and it was way too noisy for me. There was so much hype about them that I tried one again (about a year later) on one of the fleet bikes - same result, too noisy. This was over twenty years ago, so they’ve likely changed since then. | ||
| Ducbsa |
OT, but here is my old BMW's cam chain tensioner at ~92k miles; I got my money's worth out of it!  | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
Is it possible to make a little more power without making a bunch of noise? I taught Riders Edge/Riding Academy for several years and to be honest, I'm pretty tired of all the racket. What I was rolling around in my brain housing group: Andrews 21G gear driven cam Aftermarket air cleaner (Something Round, I hate the Ham Can) Stock pipes. Andrews makes a stock grind, BUT! Because I plan to go to the gear driven cams, may as well try to pick up a little more grunt. | ||
| Tootal |
Mark, I've been running the 21G for quite a while and it's no louder than stock. On the Evo engines the EV13 cam is basically the same as the 21G. Now the EV27 Evo cam had steep ramps and was a little noisier but I loved it's broad torque curve and was good on lighter bikes. On Twin Cam dressers though the 21G is quiet and torquey. If you change cams be sure and get new inner needle bearings. Get the full compliment Torrington bearings. Also include new lifters. In fact, I have a good set of Hylift Johnson lifters I used a short time. I was fighting what I thought was lifter noise and changed lifters twice but it was still noisy. Finally I found there was a hole in the weld on a rocker arm that was dropping my oil pressure to the rocker. I had it welded up and noise was gone! I'll ship them to you if you want, their just sitting in a coffee can covered in oil. As far as the Hayden being noisy, I never noticed any noise out of my old 91 FLHS. I was running Supertrapp mufflers but it wasn't that loud. The engine seemed pretty quiet, for a Harley! Greg e, I did the conversion this last Summer. I bought the o-ring/seal kit from Harley and rebuilt the throttlebody and the fuel pump assembly. So it has very few miles on it. I didn't get new screws or seal for the pump assembly. I used Dow Corning 111, a silicone grease, on all the parts and I didn't over tighten the screws. I've never experienced a leak. In fact, I use this stuff on gaskets too. Makes them stay in place during assembly and peel right off the next time I take it apart. (Message edited by tootal on December 22, 2020) (Message edited by tootal on December 22, 2020) | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
I need to stay OFF of the T-Man Performance website! Way to much candy to be had... | ||
| Tootal |
 It can be a sickness! | ||
| Ourdee |
Way to much candy to be had...Sticky Sweet! | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
I went to a Wallneck's Swap meet in Springfield, Ohio on January 3rd. Its been a long time since I have went to a swap meet and actually came home with some parts. I found a stock set of floor board mats and brake lever cover for pretty cheap. I also snagged a set of inner faring mounted mirrors. It took all of 5 minutes to swap out the mats and brake lever cover. The mirrors were a different story. I didn't have the template they cam with so it took a time figure out where to drill the holes. Got them all mounted up and promptly took them off. I had a great view of my hands.... that was a BUMMER Fast forward to this past Saturday... I ordered a Arlen Ness Big Sucker stage 1 air cleaner off Amazon and it was delivered on Sunday. I hate the football aircleaner and want to swap it out for a stockish round one. I'm on the hunt for a late 70's to 80's G-Tech air cleaner cover. They are made of aluminum and should match the aluminum on the engine once I bead blast it. BUT!, I was farting around last night watching the Browns game in the garage and found a old stainless dog bowl that is just the right size. I had to cut it down a little with the grinder and it fit perfectly. Scuffed it up a little with some 1000 grit sand paper and it matches the engine pretty well. It will do the job until I find the Willy G-Tech cover. There is one on Ebay but that guy is asking 200 bucks for it. I have a line on another one but it has yet to be found for sure.... Can't wait til warmer weather and sunny days return! | ||
| Tootal |
Check that Arlen Ness backing plate. I had one and after fighting intake leaks I finally saw that the center intake hole was off center from the mounting holes which cocked my carburetor causing the intake leaks. I emailed them and got no response. I put a classic S&S air cleaner on it and no more problems. | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
the Arlen Ness Big Sucker Air Cleaner was a pretty easy install but I was worried I would get poor throttle response. I still have the stock pipes but I thought the added air might make it burp or fart or something.... Today was warm and dry enough to take it for a little ride. Happy to say it ran perfectly. I really enjoy having something in the garage to play with. | ||
| Tootal |
 If you only change the air cleaner or the exhaust you can leave it stock. As long as you're choking it on one end or the other you're good!  I replaced my Idle air controller yesterday but it's still idling a little high. It's looking more and more like an intake leak but I can't seem to find it. The bike runs fantastic but at low speed with the throttle barley open it surges and misses ever so lightly. Just enough to bother me!  Sometimes being an anal bastard is frustrating! It was in the 50's yesterday so I too took a ride. It felt so good to get out!  | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
Spent the morning looking at cams... oil pumps... blah blah blah blah. T-Man offers a 124" Cubic inch kit for a twin cam. That would be like adding another 600 CC engine to the motor. 124" CI. = 2032 CC's. also know as bigger than most 4 banger car motors these days. | ||
| Greg_e |
Is that 124 a stroker kit, or does it need to have the cases bored out? Never mind, looked it up and it is both. How much would a big bore with cases machined, new cams, plate, pump come to compared to something like an S&S bolt in motor? I'd assume that the 124 kit would also need heads. | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
They have a link to the spec sheet. Cases bored... looks like lots of machine work and almost $4200 bucks. The reason I like T-Man is his dad is Tom Reiser. He built and rode a bunch of championship winning nitro burning hill climb and drag bikes back in the day. He did a bunch of work on my Ironhead Sportster way back when. TR is his son. When I had my 2000 Roadking I purchased the top end off of TR and his dad put it all together for me. Do you know how much fun a Roadking that can pull the front will off the ground is?! | ||
| Shoggin |
"Do you know how much fun a Roadking that can pull the front will off the ground is?!" Almost as fun as my stock Buell! LOL, sorry man I had too  | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
Why do you think I traded that Roadking for a Uly  Then this happened a BUNCH!  | ||
| Greg_e |
At $4200, how close is that to a complete motor? About the only thing you aren't getting is the cases. | ||
| Tootal |
"Do you know how much fun a Roadking that can pull the front will off the ground is?!" Yes I do! My old 91 FLHS would pull wheelies in 2 gears. At 100,000 miles the studs pulled out of the original cases so I bought S&S cases and crank. Put the original cylinders on it with RevTech 10:1 dual plugged heads and a modified CV carb. That bike ran so well but my secret, which drove my friends crazy, is that I had put a JIMS front pulley with 2 less teeth than stock. If you don't have enough torque then use your gearing! Easy first gear wheelies and decent second gear ones if your timing was right. My friends spent a whole lot of money trying to beat me and years later the dealer asked me how that 80 inch motor ran so well and I told him about the gearing change. He laughed, shook my hand and thanked me for all the money I made him! | ||
| 86129squids |
I remember you telling that story at TWoS a while back... awesome sauce!  | ||
| Tootal |
Well upon further inspection, basically going through the wiring diagrams, I have found the reason my low fuel light doesn't work. My assumption was there was a switch in the fuel pump/level sending unit but actually it works off the same sending unit that's for the fuel gauge. I traced the wires to a "low fuel module". Well since my bike was originally a carbed bike I don't have a "low fuel module". They don't make new ones anymore so fleabay to the rescue. Problem should be fixed by February 1st. I have to pull the front fairing off...again! | ||
| Tootal |
Well my Fleabay part showed up yesterday so I pulled off the front fairing:  I checked out the wiring diagram so I could locate the proper connector:  Oh look what I found!  Now I need to figure out where this mounts. According to my book it should mount somewhere around the side of the radio support. Here's the module:  You can see the two mounting holes. I wonder if there's holes there already? Oh look!  A couple of stainless sheet metal screws later and done!  I won't know if it works till I get to ride again and run the tank down, but that might be a while. My plans to ride South hit a speed bump with some of my friends in Florida who are still dealing with home repairs and Covid. Looks like my next planned ride might be May Badness at TWoS. |
