It's important concealed, too, that your gat doesn't bounce on the ground as you get out of the car, or you trip over a pebble, etc.
But for open carry, you need to prevent snatching. There's a non trivial number of people shot with their own guns, and it's not that hard to learn the "secret handshake".
After all, snub revolver guys who pocket carry learn to put the thumb over the hammer to facilitate a smooth draw, ( depending on gun & pockets... there's a reason hammerless is popular ) so learning to push the button to draw is not really a speed loss, and not hard to program.
Unfortunately, They don't go for open carry in NY , and so I don't have a good recommendation for you.
But for open carry, you need to prevent snatching.
I agree with the premise, but disagree that it has to be a physical attribute of the holster. More to the point, a mindset based on situational awareness and wisdom is required to maintain possession of your firearm.
As I said, zero open carry experience but police have serious issues with gun control, and while civilians are not as likely to wrestle with a drug crazed monster... some lunatic in a crowd might notice you are distracted and go for it.
At a minimum you want to prevent accidental discharge & loss, so trigger covered. Kydex isn't pretty, but it works.
I love my hybrid - thin stainless backing covered in neoprene (wetsuit stuff) against my hip, with a kydex outer shell against my belt (IWB). I also have one that I use when cycling, same kydex but with a leather backer instead of the stainless/neoprene. Softer backing for range of motion, but squeaks a bit with motion so I try not to wear it much working or when I want to be "covert" about it...
My ex is keeping my sons Ruger MKIV for no purpose but that she can...so I'm buying him another .22. She so has a bunch of his ammo and a vintage pancake holster for a 4" K frame that she refuses to return as well.
Anyway, I was thinking a MKIII 22/45 or a Browning Buckmark Micro.
The Browning requires fiddling with screws to field strip. The Ruger requires fiddling with a hammer strut to do the same. They're both nice.
I can get either one as new old stock for about $300.
I told my MkIII target because of the damn strut. The newer ones have a single button take down. I have a .22 suppressor and no host currently. As soon as things get back to normalish, ill be grabbing a new Ruger Mk4 with the 1911 style grip, single button take down and threaded barrel
A buddy told me you just have to hold it upside down & sorta sideways and it all falls together perfectly. Plus a rabbit's foot, incense, a dispensation from Pope Urban and the right barometric pressure.
While I was at it I got a hammer bushing that gets rid of the magazine safety (otherwise magazines don't drop free), a Volquartsen target sear, and a filler piece for the loaded chamber indicator from Tandemkross. I'm also going to set the trigger up with over travel and pre travel adjustments. In hindsight I could've just got another MKIV, which needs nothing and would've cost the same. That said, only the Tactical and Lite models come in a 4" barrel. The alloy receiver Lite models are a challenge to clean as one needs to be careful not to damage the anodizing, and the Tactical models are kinda silly with rails all over. They're both more expensive as well. The MKIV's are also sold out nationwide at this time. I like the 4" bull barrels due to the balance and that they mimic the sight radius of a full size centerfire pistol.
I wanted a fancy extractor, as well...but they were sold out. I'll try to make one out of a spare one I've got.
The kid made the final decision. I respect his choice.
I should receive it sometime tomorrow...then get to spend half a day modding it out. I am less and less inclined to modify perfectly serviceable firearms these days...but this one has some minor annoyances out of the box.
Yeah, 8 million new customers (new gun owners)...decreased raw material supplies due to virus mitigation causing production decreases...decreased staffing at production plants (in ANY industry right now)...hoarding...riots...fear...election...upcomi ng holidays....yeah.
Joe take up re-loading I "roll my own" and its enjoyable and interesting. a Dillon reloader ( progressive ) the 650, (newish) or a new 700 series machine ( I have a 650 ) I build .45acp at about 600 per hour, a little slower for 9 mm. .223 is slow 200 per hour all on the 650.
its good for practice and plinking.
If your interested look at Dillon Precision's site, for rifle and small batch precision Hornady or RCBS single stage tools, }
RE-loading can give you some savings per box, 45 acp is about 30$ for reasonable quality ( not steel cased junk )
I load it with plated 230 grain ball for about 11~12$ a box ( I have the brass ) Plus I can build and taylor my ammo to my desires. My 45 practice ammo is 830 FPS with a 230 grain ball, The self defense Ammo in 45 will likely be leah self defense solid copper projectiles 200 ish Grain pushing 900+ FPS ( depending on how the gun works with it )