Well, I got the specs I need - 29r wheel, 700c. 135mm quick release hub, shimano 8/9/10 hub setup, 6 bolt disc.
The hunt begins.
Meantime, I'm picking up a coworkers 29r Mongoose with disc brakes, as a stop-gap. Ridden 3x...$100. He's my size so the frame should fit, but if it doesn't...I may swap its rear wheel onto my bike for the time being. All gonna depend on the gearset.
In a strange turn of events, I've been working from home since early March and got three hours a day back. I started out on my my old hybrid bike and bought a new Norco Torrent St1. I've been doing dedicated mountain bike trails on Sundays and riding four or five days on the road.
A few weeks ago I broke a couple of spokes on my road bike. A local shop had them in stock, so I was able to replace them and true the wheel pretty quickly. You're unlikely to break spokes except for weight, impact or just good old material failure.
Also, to search for a wheel, you just need to know the hub width, speed, wheel diameter and rotor mounting type.
You might be better served with getting a custom wheel laced up. If youre killing spokes, the freehub body is probably pretty closely following it. A better quality hub laced to a good run with quality spokes will not likely have problems.
Also, if you're not on Strava, it's great to track your rides and see where you are improving
My Garmin tracks it perfectly - and I can look at maps either with or without sat photos of the terrain.
And I can (and have) turned off "sharing".
I broke the spokes at the elbow, where they meet the hub. The shop sounded surprised when I told them "yeah, you guys replaced two spokes on the same wheel about 2 weeks ago..." - so they say they're going to look it over closely.
We shall see.
Spare bike coming this afternoon. If the wheel doesn't drop into my frame (it's a disc brake 29r but I don't know what gearset), I'll likely order a replacement rim to keep as a spare.
How do you like the 1x.. gearset on your Torrent? I'm used to 3x gearsets - my old GT was a 3x8, the current is a 3x9. I don't actually USE my lower two ranges...but its nice to know they're there if I need them. Does the 1x set have enough range and options for you, or have you found yourself looking for more gears?
The Torrent is a 1x12. The cassette is 10/50 and the chain ring is 30 tooth. I feel that the spread is pretty good for my terrain, though, once or twice Iíll feel like Iím spinning too fast or Ďluggingí it. I thought it was weird at first, but love it now. If they would make a lighter shifter action, I would be set. My right thumb hurts on longer rides.
The positives are that the teeth are better defined on the chainring and Iíve never had a dropped chain. It doesnít need to shift, so thatís a win. You lose about a pound of weight going to a 1x drivetrain. Even when working in a bike shop, I hated adjusting front deraillers with a passion. Another benefit is that the chains can be a more specific length and there is way less chain slap.
Sunrace makes a 12 speed cassette that is compatible with your hubs and is 11/50.
At 300 pounds and doing intervals, Iíve broken two spokes. If it be comes a common occurrence, Iíd skip machine built wheels all together. Universalcycles.com has a wheel builder tool. You pick your parts. They hand lace it, tension it, true it and ship it to you.
Court, I have the maps set to private within a mile of the house. I look at it as a trade off. Every free app is stealing your information. The only way would be to not use the apps. The hard part right now is getting the kids to not post everything piece of their lives online, especially as kids going through adoption...
I concur. I guess my objection is the constant tracking and that they "invaded" 4,900 of my contacts . . . I hate to be part of someone's advertising campaign. But, the app is fun. Does nothing my iWatch and Bontrager computer don't do . . but, I like the interface.
Court, a buddy and his wife just got matching Fatboys and I wasn't sure at first but really liked it. Its a little slow to take off with all that mass, but they are tubeless ready and that drops a ton of rotational mass off the outside of the wheel where it matters.
First, I went to another bike shop in town to get the wheel repaired. He's not going to "replace a spoke" - he's going to de-tension the entire wheel, check all the spokes, replace the broken one, and re-tension the whole wheel. And, instead of July 23rd...Tom will have it done tomorrow.
Second...at Tom's shop...I was looking around, and there was a Cannondale FatCAAD3. Used (barely - still had tits on the tires). Aftermarket upgraded hydraulics on the factory radial-mount disc brakes (factory was cable-operated discs). Upgraded (taller) front chainring - 36T instead of the stock 32. 10x2 SRAM gearset, shifts perfectly with no cable stretch. Brakes stop like a brick wall, but super easy to modulate. 26x4.50 tires that ride like a dream, even with rigid fork and hardtail rear.
It followed me home. Half the price of new, for about 5 miles of use. It had clip-on pedals, which I don't use, and it was about a half size too small for my reach (frame size is a L, I usually ride XL). There's plenty of seat post height so I can get full extension...so I traded Tom the clip-on pedals for a 1" extended steering stem and it fits perfectly. I swapped the brakes to "moto" style so the front brake is on the right hand (so I don't kill myself on either a motorcycle or the MTB when I switch back and forth and grab the "wrong" brake!). I put on some old flat-pedals I had in the garage and have ordered buckhorn bar-ends and grip tape, as well as a new presta-valve hand pump.
Rode it Sunday for the first time and loved the fit, but HATED the rolling resistance. My elapsed time for my 5.5 mile ride was up from 25:15...to 30:10. But, it was great for my calorie burn (430 calories) so I figured I'd keep at it.
Picked up a presta-to-schraeder adaptor so I could check tire pressures yesterday (everything I have has always been schraeder), and ... well, I fixed the rolling resistance problem. The rims have a max rating of 15 PSI. The tires...were at FOUR. Aired up to 15 and it made ALL the difference! Shaved 3.5 minutes off my Sunday time (30 min down to 26:30) and it felt GREAT!
I might (haven't decided yet) convert the front chainring up from 36 to 42, just to get some more top end for the 2 big downhills on the route, but the 10 cog rear is SUPER nice - close ratios, easy shifting, more "usable" gears than my GT with the 9x3 because I can do it all with just the rear gearset.
I also might switch to some tires that have a continuous center rib, just to smooth out the ride on pavement - these knobbies are a bit like Super Swampers, but now that they have air in them I think I can get by with them for at least a season...
Nope, it's a beefy Aluminum fork. Cannondale did a great job on this thing - it LOOKS huge and chunky and heavy, but picking it up to hang it on the hook, or to hoist it over a couple cable-gates on my ride...it's LIGHT. Maybe not "race-bike" light...but not nearly as hefty as I expected from looking at its massive tubing and tires.
Court, test ride them back to back if possible. Carbon fiber is sexy. I'm thinking about handlebars out of it due to the damping effect. That being said, some carbon frames feel 'dead' to me. They sound hollow and 'crunchy' off road.
I rode a few bikes before deciding on this one. I had a Salsa Timberjack and had no complaints. It was aluminum and sweet. I started looking for something a little more high end and test rode some carbon bikes, but they didn't feel great to me. The most expensive one I rode was a Diamonback Sync'r. A benefit to carbon, aside from the lightness, is that the material can be oriented to affect the liveliness of the ride. The DB was rough. I also rode an aluminum bike and had no complaints. Then I test rode steel. The Kona Honza ST was first on my list, but it rode rough as well. Plus there were lots of reviews about geometry not being very modern. I read about this Norco and it's made for abusive riders in the northwest and is stout, but rides well.
The takeaway is to ride a bunch. Buy the best one you can afford so you don't need to upgrade quickly. Breakages should be under warranty unless it's crash related and at that point, it's a great time to upgrade.
We tried a new trail this weekend and it quickly got out of hand. One rider endo'd and hurt his shoulder less than 100 yards into the trail. The next guy made it around a mile before taco'ing a wheel. Two out of five riders didn't make it. The Norco makes me look like a better rider than I am. There were multiple drops that come out of nowhere. It's very much a 'flow' trail that needs momentum. And a dropper post.
Those fat tire bikes are TOO slow for my liking. I bike several miles TO the trailheads (plural). I get bonus points for getting lost in a forest and blazing my own trail towards a nearby road. Bicycles are so much fun, my current ride is a 2015 Specialized Camber. You can't get a good bike today for less than $2500. Bicycling is natural for bikers
3 days on the cannondale and I'm within :55 of my best time ever on the GT. That's on my 5.5 mile cardio loop, and I don't even have bar ends on the cannondale yet for leverage when I'm grinding up the hills. Best aversge mph on the GT is 13.0; I just logged a 12.4 on the cannondale in 91 degree, humid weather. The fatty is plenty fast, and amazingly nimble. And a bonus - my lower back doesn't hurt like it has after riding the GT all season! Not sure why, but there must be a subtle (and important) geometry change in there somewhere...
Fast is not on my dance card ... if I average 15 mph Iíve had a great day. I have 2 loops a 33 mile and a 50 mile. Iím doing it pretty much just for the cardio and getting my heart rate up for 3 to 4 hours of solid pedaling works great.
I agree that bicycling is a natural for motorcyclists.
I disagree about not being able to get a good bike under 2500. There are plenty sub-1500 bikes that are extremely capable. Its just like anything else, the more you spend the more features and lightness you get. Most people would have a hard time telling the difference in performance between an entry level rockshox Recon and the Lyric that retails for 1k.
Honestly though, you do need to ride a bunch. Just like a motorcycle - see what FITS. Make sure you have the gearing you need - just like channels on an audio mixer, spares are a good thing. "Just in case you need them". You don't do many hills in FL, so you'd likely be fine with a 1x12 gearset as opposed to a 2x10...but try 'em all out if you can. If it's going to do double duty in FL and NY....get a 2x10. The extra few grams and slightly more complexity of a second shifter, will be worth it on the northern hills. Disc brakes rock...but make sure you get hydraulics. Squeeze harder and you STOP. Cable operated discs, you squeeze harder...and you can feel the cables stretch. As you don't stop as fast as you want.
Get a good "guy" in a shop to go over fit, posture, extension, adjustments, etc. My fatCAAD is only a L frame (at 6'4" with 34" inseam and 37" arms, I normally ride an XL), but the addition of a 1" extension on the steering stem to give more reach to the bars, and a seat post that has a s#!t-ton of height adjustment so I get full knee extension...and it works amazingly well. Just like motorcycles - fractions of an inch make a huge difference. But, I still can't wait for my bar-ends to arrive.
I can literally toss this thing into a turn like my Uly, in the middle of a 39mph downhill, across a gravel patch in the road, as I make a left-right dogleg off the road, through an entry gate, and onto a service road that parallels the main road I just left. On my GT, I always hauled down the speed so the tires didn't knife through the gravel and wash out, or glance off the occasional large stone. But the 26x4.50s simply float over all the imperfections, they don't glance off larger rocks or divots...they just GO. I also carry a lot more lean angle on paved downhill turns, as opposed to steering through the turns...it's becoming very natural to me, after only running my daily cardio course four times so far. I work a little harder on the flats and uphills, but there's enough gearing that my legs aren't hurting, my times are staying consistent...and my calorie burn is kicking ass. Click up 2 gears, stand, and crank. Click down a gear, stay seated, crank faster but with less resistance for some "relaxation" without losing too much speed. Click up 1 gear, let go of the bars and sit straight up with my hands on my hips, to open my diaphragm and take big, gulping breaths of air. There's a gear for everything...
Youíve whet my appetite ... current Treks are about to go to NY. Dealer here is going to order a Fat and configure it. . .electronic and so forth. . . Identical to the Trek. If there is a hill Iin Florida itís well hidden. Closest curve is in Georgia.
Once upon a time, bicycles came in sizes that were the length of the seat tube. You know, a number. Like 48 cm. ( actually, they still do, but marketing to ignorance... )
I had a lady friend's Cannondale time trial/triathlon bike in my basement until this week. It's at the shop so they can try to sell it. ( she's crippled now and can't ride ) Road only bike sized for LADIES, which typically have long legs and short torsos. If you want a practically new ( a few dozen miles ) super fast 26" skinny tire bike for your better half, or you are say, a 32" or more leg pants size, ( I'm a 30, and my testicles just drape the top tube when I'm in loose shorts & slippers..... Just a touch talk for me ) Let me know, I'll post pics. It's got those elbow rest hands together punching a hole in the wind triathlon aero bars.
I strongly recommend spinning over hammering. True, I didn't get the titanium knees because I crumbled the OEM ones on a bike, that's on work. But I'm in serious hills country and run 3x7 gearing on my 700C off road bike, the ancient Suntour Microdrive with small front rings ( better clearance on rocks and logs ) with a tiny rear cluster. I can run out of leg speed at top end, but it's still faster than my road race bike on the flats because of the Aero rims.
A long gone friend got me into high end bicycles with the observation that the 95+% machines are beyond most folk's reach, financially, in cars. Few can afford to buy a Ferrari, etc. But he, on food stamps, could save up enough for a bicycle in the same narrow quality band, where there are few equals and anything better kicks into serious money with Ti or Carbon frames.
And the price gap between steel and Ti & Carbon has narrowed, as American Aerospace tech trickled down... After all the Wright Brothers built bikes. They don't buy many new fighters and bombers today, so companies and craftsmen that learned to weld titanium and build infusion molds, turned to consumer products... where lightness earns a premium price.
A couple of years ago I purchased a Spot Brand Acme bike. It's an aluminum frame with carbon fiber front fork, hydraulic disk brakes, 11 speed shimano hub and belt drive. I have ridden past dogs and they don't even raise their heads it's so quiet. It's a hybrid so not a fatty tired bike however they make some really high tech stuff too. So if you like "Made in the USA" and have the cash you should check these guys out. They're out of Golden Colorado.
I broke three spokes last week. All drive side and none were the replacement spokes. I broke one on a ride Monday, I replaced it. Broke another on ride Wednesday, so I replaced that one and another let go on the test ride. I replaced it and ordered a set of hand built wheels with sealed hub bearings. They are 29er mountain bike rims on Speedtuned Super 6 hubs and held together with DT Swiss spokes and brass nipples. They aren't bottom barrel, but they aren't super expensive, either. I couldn't buy the raw materials for what they are selling them assembled to me for. Not to mention the fact that the parts are back-ordered on most sites, so they must be hoarding them for complete builds...
Everything is backordered because bicycling is the only way you can exercise these days. Bike shops around here, for major components and bicycles, are all empty. One shop was telling me four WEEKS to lace a wheel, until I found my small-shop guy who laced it while I stood there and we chatted, and I bought the fat bike from him (used). He also had zero new inventory for bikes. Walmart bike area look like the toilet paper aisle.
There's a shortage of inner tubes. Months of shutdown at the Chinese factory and higher demand have emptied the supply chain.
The bike shops are busy, and would be making good money, except they have a hard time getting new bikes from China to sell.
Both the above statements are from the local great small bike shop. He was going to go out of business, ( they planned on repaving the street in front of his shop and those dozen blocks of small shops were going to be more than decimated ) and now is busy with repairs.
The decent Japanese components are still in stock, for now, lower demand than tubes, which are a consumable.