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Oldog
Posted on Sunday, November 27, 2016 - 04:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Trying to refill coolant in 4l v6 Soho can't seem to get air out, can't find a vent plug,
Haynes manual is useless again

Help
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Ratbuell
Posted on Sunday, November 27, 2016 - 05:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

When all else fails, physically crack open the thermostat housing.

Or...do what I always do. Drill a small hole in the thermostat. Sure, it'll drop your running temp by a degree or two...but it also eliminates any need to bleed air from the engine side of the thermostat.

Don't forget to crank the heat to 900 degrees, to get all the air out of the heater core as well.
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Oldog
Posted on Sunday, November 27, 2016 - 06:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Finally got a temp indication, and some warmth, it blew a pint of coolant from rad fill, then took a gallon of coolant , Rat I thought most -stats had bleed holes, no info in the Haynes manual on the fill and bleed
This stat housing is plastic, just under the throttle body reqs intake removal for access × says Haynes. ×
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Oldog
Posted on Sunday, November 27, 2016 - 06:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Btw thanks, I may have to do the housing some how. Top hose may act as air trap.
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Hootowl
Posted on Sunday, November 27, 2016 - 07:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If the cap is not the high point, look for the high point. You should find a bleed screw nearby.
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Sifo
Posted on Sunday, November 27, 2016 - 07:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Some cars you can jack up the front end to help burp the air out. Not sure about your ford.
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Red93stang
Posted on Sunday, November 27, 2016 - 08:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

4.0L SOHC in what vehicle and what year?

(Message edited by Red93stang on November 27, 2016)
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Badlionsfan
Posted on Sunday, November 27, 2016 - 09:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

What Sifo said. If the cap isn't the hight point in the system, jack up the front of the car so it is. That's how we used to do the race car and it always worked.
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Sunday, November 27, 2016 - 10:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My dad was an autobody guy in the 70's and early 80's. He said you had to jack up one of those renault Le Cars to get them to even pump the water.
Something like the water pump was airlocked in a high spot.

Moral of the story: Can't find a high spot? MAKE a high spot.
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1313
Posted on Sunday, November 27, 2016 - 10:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

4.0L SOHC in what vehicle and what year?

No idea on the year, but it's Moby (that's what Oldog calls it...) the white Exploder Sport Trac.
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Etennuly
Posted on Sunday, November 27, 2016 - 10:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

On most vehicles you can create an air bubble by putting too much in to start out.

I start with about half the system capacity in the radiator. Start the engine. Pour in coolant slowly as it warms up. Stop filling a few inches short of the radiator cap hole. Watch for fluid flow when thermostat opens then top it off as it is flowing. Install cap.

Some will need to be jacked up. Some will have vent screw at highest point. Make sure heater cut off valve in heater hose is open. Make sure heater is on.
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Etennuly
Posted on Sunday, November 27, 2016 - 11:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

my dad was an autobody guy in the 70's and 80's

So was I. Lol .....still at it. If I don't get it figured out soon I am gonna quit!!
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Oldog
Posted on Wednesday, November 30, 2016 - 07:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok an update, still seems to be some air in the system. Moby the great white Ford truck is an '01. I was smelling coolant [on exhaust ] and the hoses and serp belt
Were OE, so it seemed like a good idea to replace them, I need the truck to be dependable, the upper hose [dayco] is the new HIGH spot. : [ I had tried Vern's idea just too much in the radiator[made a huge mess] finally got a temp indication and heat, finished by filling the over flow tank way up,

I hear air in the heater core at shutdown,
Does it make sense to knead the top hose and try and work the air out?
In hind site shoulda replaced the thermostat..
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Hughlysses
Posted on Wednesday, November 30, 2016 - 08:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Does it make sense to knead the top hose and try and work the air out?

I've done that when refilling a cold engine to work the air out of the hoses; it seems to work pretty well.
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Ratbuell
Posted on Wednesday, November 30, 2016 - 08:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes, you should have done the thermostat.

Coolant in the exhaust is a sign of a blown head gasket. My 2.2 turbos used to go through them like crazy when I raced them (at 30+psi boost levels). If you have a blown head gasket, cylinder compression is going past the gasket into a coolant passage, forcing "air" into the system.
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Red93stang
Posted on Wednesday, November 30, 2016 - 08:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Filling and Bleeding Without RADKITPLUS

CAUTION: Engine coolant provides freeze protection, boil protection, cooling efficiency and corrosion protection to the engine and cooling components. In order to obtain these protections, the engine coolant must be maintained at the proper concentration and fluid level. When adding engine coolant, use a 50/50 mixture of engine coolant and clean drinkable water.

To maintain the integrity of the coolant and the cooling system:

Add Motorcraft Premium Engine Coolant VC-4-A (CXC-10 in Canada, VC-5 in Oregon) or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESE-M97B44-A.
Do not add orange-colored extended life coolant VC-2 or equivalent, meeting Ford specification WSS-M97B44-D. Mixing coolant may degrade the coolant's corrosion protection.
Do not add alcohol or methanol or any engine coolants mixed with alcohol or methanol antifreeze. These can cause engine damage from overheating or freezing.
Do not mix recycled coolant unless it meets the requirements of specification ESE-M97B44-A. Not all coolant recycling processes meet this specification; use of such a coolant may harm the engine and cooling system components.

Fill the radiator through the radiator cap opening. Close the cap when full.
Fill the radiator coolant recovery reservoir to the cold fill line.
Select the maximum heater temperature and blower motor speed settings. Position the control to discharge air from the A/C vents to the instrument panel.
CAUTION: If the air discharge remains cool and the engine coolant temperature gauge does not move, the engine coolant level is low in the engine and must be filled. Stop the engine, allow it to cool and fill the cooling system.

Run the engine until it reaches operating temperature.
WARNING: To avoid personal injury, do not unscrew the coolant pressure relief cap while the engine is operating or hot. The cooling system is under pressure; steam and hot liquid can come out forcefully when the cap is loosened slightly.

Turn off the engine and allow the cooling system to cool. When the pressure has been released, remove the radiator cap. Add more coolant mixture to the radiator until full.
Add more coolant mixture to the radiator coolant recovery reservoir until the level reaches the cold fill line.
Start the engine and allow it to idle. While the engine is idling, feel for hot air from the A/C vents.
Hot air should discharge from the A/C vents. The engine coolant temperature gauge should maintain a stabilized reading in the middle of the NORMAL range and the upper radiator hose should feel hot to the touch
Check the engine coolant level in the radiator coolant recovery reservoir and fill it as necessary.
Repeat Steps 5 through 8 as necessary.

This is straight out of the WSM without the special tool.
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Thumper74
Posted on Wednesday, November 30, 2016 - 11:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ratbuell, 2.2 Chryslers? I had one in a Plymouth Duster, that thing was riot. I had it when the FnF crowd were ricing out the Civics.

Too bad about TurboGus...
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Ltbuell
Posted on Wednesday, November 30, 2016 - 12:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

..the proper way is to hook up a vacuum source setup to the radiator cap opening with the correct fitting and draw all the air out of the system.(There is a setup out there that i used years ago while i was a tech....cant think of the name.Works great every time.Need to get one for here at the house for both our vehicles as they both have low mount t-stats.)Once the vacuum is pulled down enough- -25 to -30 below the zero mark on the gauge,close the vacuum line to the vacuum source and switch hoses to one that connects to the rad cap attachment and the other end into a full coolant and slowly open the valve and the vacuum will pull the coolant into the cooling system. Once the vacuum gauge reads "0" and you've pulled all of the coolant out....sometimes you may have to use more than 1 container of coolant,depending on the capacity of the cooling system, release the cap attachment, top off the cooling system and the overflow bottle,put on radiator cap....start up engine and set your heater settings for hot and floor and run till it cycles through(temp stabilizes after t-stat opens and stays where it should be)...shut off and wait till cooling system cools down....carefully crack open rad cap and top off, if necessary, cooling system and overflow tank,put back on rad cap....good to go.Got to tell you,that little setup is a time saver and is worth its weight in gold for anyone...wish i bought one while i was in the automotive field.....still i'm going to look for one.All you need is a good air compressor to hook it up to as it uses a good air source to use as a way to draw a vacuum into the system(has a air tee fitting with the setup).Hope this helps.This will pretty much get all of the coolant back into the cooling system in the best time and relieve all those "headaches" of the trial/error methods of burping/purging and possibly having heating issues after that way...beside the old ways takes way too long and can create unwanted problems,messes,etc.LT
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Azxb9r
Posted on Thursday, December 01, 2016 - 02:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Pull one of the heater hoses, they are usually the high point in the system, and fill until coolant comes out of the heater hose. This will usually get enough of the air out of the system that that running it through a couple heat cycles will purge the rest. The 4.0l is not an engine that normally has problems purging the air out of the cooling system, so you may have another problem. Also, hearing a gurgling in the heater core does not mean air in the system.
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Oldog
Posted on Friday, December 02, 2016 - 08:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok an update, still seems to be some air in the system. Moby the great white Ford truck is an '01. I was smelling coolant [on exhaust ] and the hoses and serp belt
Were OE, so it seemed like a good idea to replace them, I need the truck to be dependable, the upper hose [dayco] is the new HIGH spot. : [ I had tried Vern's idea just too much in the radiator[made a huge mess] finally got a temp indication and heat, finished by filling the over flow tank way up,

I hear air in the heater core at shutdown,
Does it make sense to knead the top hose and try and work the air out?
In hind site shoulda replaced the thermostat..
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Oldog
Posted on Friday, December 02, 2016 - 08:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks red stang,, I kinda stumbled thru that, procedure, wound up running the engine, with low coolant managed to add more[got heat]re filled the radiator, then
Filled the. o f tank. No temp spikes, not smelling coolant anymore,

THANKS EVERY ONE RIGHT NOW I DONT NEED TO REPLACE A CAR, the Haynes manual is useless on this subject ...
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Red93stang
Posted on Friday, December 02, 2016 - 09:08 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

AWESOME! Glad it all worked out!
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