| Author | Message | ||
     Ratbuell |
OK. Business is growing for my sound company. I've gone from a 4000W powered system that fits in the bed of my truck (under the tonneau cover)...to a 24' cargo trailer with just under 50,000 watts of digital amps, subs, tops, scaffold, truss, lights, cables, and controllers. My truck is the same ol' 2001 Cummins Ram 2500. 24v turbodiesel, six speed stick, 3.55 gears, 4x4. Mods thus far: - Banks turbo-back exhaust with muffler, including turbo housing elbow/downpipe -BHAF (Big Honkin Air Filter) open element filter - boost, EGT, and fuel pressure gauges - FASS DRP-02 factory replacement lift pump, 70gph@18psi ...and apparently someone before I bought the truck tweaked the wastegate arm (shortened it), because I can see 25psi under load (factory is 20). My driveway is at 1500' elevation. Most of my work...is at 300'. I'm working the truck HARD coming home (the trailer is rated for 10k lbs and loaded has a 1425# hitch weight). Pulling grades coming home, I see 1100 EGT, 25psi boost, and fuel pressure drops to about 10psi (sometimes 9). Anyone familiar with the VP44 injection pump knows that's right on the hairy edge of "not enough" (and a VP44 reman is about a grand). I try not to blow that particular component. Now...with 24psi, I'm throwing an overboost code, which forces the computer into limp/defuel mode, which means I go up the mountain even SLOWER....at 3am after a gig. There are options. a boost-fooler, which will keep the computer from seeing anything over 20psi...but the fuel curve is still going to go flat at 20 an adjustable fuel pressure return valve, keeping more pressure in the VP44 (fuel is the cooling agent for the Bosch VP44 injection pump; run it dry and it eats itself). A bigger fuel lift pump that flows more than 70gph, and/or larger fuel lines. An Edge Comp tuner, which will allow more boost, send fuel for more boost (as long as I'm feeding it to the pump properly), and make up to an additional 120hp / 350 lb/ft. Larger injectors. It's a diesel - more fuel = more power (to a point) and the Rams were lean from the factory. RV275s are popular, as are many custom 100hp/150hp oversize units. IF I go injectors, they will be factory/matched/tested units, not "Bob's reman" units. But...more injector flow equals less VP44 pressure...so that choice is lower down the list. My truck is in the garage tonight at 235k miles...and I don't know what clutch is in it (stock/aftermarket), or how old it is. It does not slip, and I would like to keep it that way for as long as possible. Anybody with a Cummins have any input? Right now I'm leaning towards the adjustable return fitting to get fuel pressures up, then possibly the Edge box on a low setting, watching gauges, to see how it does. Thoughts? | ||
| Etennuly |
Dude(yeah I called you dude)I had a brand new '98 version of your Dodge diesel dually truck for three years. You are so much further into your hot rodding it than I ever saw, there is no way I can help. Mine was the earlier twelve valve. Had a five speed. I pulled a 31 foot fifth wheel camper from Florida to California to Tennessee and back to Florida, weighing in at nearly 13,000 pounds of towed load. I put 43,000 miles on it in three years. I changed oil myself exactly three times, the first one was on the dealer. The guy at the Banks Engineering Booth told me running Mobile 1 oil would be good for 10,000 mile change intervals. Oh and I washed it frequently. Why you wanna go so fast?  I still have big trucks, I just run a little slower when it is heavy and be glad that it makes it home. Sheeese! everyone wants to drive eighty miles per hour loaded heavy as if they were empty! Physics have laws, and with mechanical devices you bend those laws when you push the envelope of load vs speed. Best of luck with that. | ||
| Etennuly |
Oh yeah, your cheapest up hill defeating method, considering the modifications done to your engine, go with the 411 gears. It will make high speed cruising a bit higher than you like in the RPM range, but it will get you up those hills faster. It will take some of the load from the engine that is making the EGTs go so high. | ||
| Ratbuell |
All I have to do for the grades is downshift. Bonehead, have to remember there's a 5....I don't have to stay in 6...lol. Like I said, this all came about from the overboost/limp issue I'm finding with the load on it. I don't wanna go fast in the truck...that's what the 1125 is for  The stuff I've done - BHAF, exhaust, pump, gauges - are in the name of maintenance (rusted exhaust) and longevity (exhaust happens to be stainless; BHAF is the size of a trash can and NEVER gets dirty; lift pump keeps injection pump happy; gauges let me keep an eye on the old bastard). I just started looking for an overboost solution. Found the boost fooler. Then found the Comp box that has a built-in fooler...and another 120hp depending on which level I use (1-5). Which brought up the "how low is too low" question for fuel pressure..."how much is too much HP" question for the whatever-it-is, however-old-it-is clutch... And really? I want a little extra for the grades, for when I can't hold speed, have to slow down for something (••••••• in a car, deer in the woods, whatever), and need to get the whole heavy-ass contraption back up to speed going uphill. Believe me, I have no illusions of turning a 3/4 ton diesel into a sports car. Nor do I want to. No stacks. No black smoke. No bullshit. I just want to pull my load...and have some in reserve in case I need it. Right now, I can pull the load...but that's about it. | ||
| Etennuly |
Well mister twenty four valve six speed diesel driver - dude! Ya doesn't has ta call me a bonehead.....you're not my dad! Every factor you mentioned makes it leaner. I am surprised a tuner was not in the mix for when you installed the pipe and air box alone. I don't know about the fuel pump or injectors of that particular unit, but you are right, you will have to find a way to get more fuel in it before you have a melt down. If the tuners change the pulse width to increase flow it seems like a better idea than larger injectors. The large injectors probably would kill your fuel mileage when running empty, and you cannot adjust them on the fly. Having driven a few of them with tuners, and been amazed by what a tuner can do for a diesel just with a flick of a switch, I would lean that direction. Besides it is a lot easier and it is totally adjustable and reverse-able. The trucks that I drove had the stock pumps and injectors and could nearly double stock power numbers. I demo-ed a used 100,000 mile 2006 GM Diesel Automatic Posi Dually that would simply smoke the tires from a rolling start. Flip the switch and it went right back to 20+ mpg stock truck. I bought a big flow air box, removed the muffler, and put stacks on my Ford 6.0 a couple of years ago. I bought a tuner and was about to install it when the truck had a group of problems all at one time(think perpetual POS), so I returned the tuner and replaced a bunch of crap to make it run normal again, then sold it to a Ford lover. I'm sorry. Most of the folks I see are doing the performance mods to get a truck running with 20,000 pounds of mass like it does at 7,000. You did not mention the speeds you were trying to run, so naturally I assumed you had become an idiot. Again I am sorry, I know better of you. | ||
| Stevel |
I currently own a 2004 3500 dually. I bought it new. It is full Banks end to end and makes just under 500 hp. Best truck I have ever owned. I do all my own work, so I'm familiar with the truck. If I recall, your truck is Gen 2 and not common rail. Yet you speak about a common rail pump (VP44), so what's up with that? As I understand this, the VP44 was introduced in Gen 3 and the first year for that was 2003. Lastly, when you talk about fuel pressure at 10 PSI, you must be talking about fuel feed pressure. Assuming you are sampling this at the input banjo of the VP44, 10 PSI is more than most and is very good. You need to be concerned when the feed pressure is less than 5 PSI. If you doubt you have adequate rail pressure and I don't know why you think that is so, you need to be monitoring the common rail pressure. Without a tuner your rail will cycle between 7,000 psi and 17,000 psi depending on your right foot. The solution to your issue depends on clearing up just what you have. | ||
| Stevel |
I did check and your engine does have the VP44. You are also correct that the VP44 does like a bit more supply pressure than the CP3. Also I checked on the fuel feed pressure drop with a FASS and it is too much at WOT. I would first change the fuel filter as it is easy to do. If that doesn't resolve the issue, place another fuel pressure gauge right after the FASS pump and before the filter. If you are still experiencing high pressure drop there, your FASS is going out. However, I doubt that this is causing your power drop. Remember your engine is drive by wire. There is no direct connection between your pedal and the engine. I suspect you may have a faulty APPS. | ||
| Malott442 |
Just as with any repair, upgrade, etc. start cheap. Aren't the boost foolers just a few bucks? I would start cheap and work my way down the list. And when it comes time to get a clutch, don't be cheap. Lift pump return flow is adjustable by pressure, but your pump is on the small side for towing, imo. A raptor is pretty cheap. 1100 may sound like a lot to purchase a south bend dual disc, but it slips and pedals like stock. Add a 250 dollar valair hydraulics pack, and you will never think of your clutch again. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Vern - I was calling myself a bonehead. I literally do it - out loud - when I realize I forgot to downshift BEFORE the grade (because a mid-hill downshift just kills all boost and progress). Perhaps I have become an idiot...just not the kind you were speaking of  And to answer your fueling questions, yes, the Edge Comp taps the pump wire and sends signal to the injectors to pulse longer. It also DEfuels at lower boost levels for fuel economy, so it swings both ways - more fuel under boost for more power, less fuel when cruising for economy. Steve - yes, you are correct, I'm checking fuel pressure at the VP44 inlet banjo. I'll check my filter but would be surprised if it's ganked up - the pump doesn't even have 10k miles on it, and I change the filter every oil change to be safe so it only has 5k on it (I'm about 500 miles overdue for an oil change). And I did just order the Tork Teknologies adjustable return valve (http://www.torkteknology.com/products/CUMMINS-24V- VP%252d44-INJECTION-PUMP-ADJUSTABLE-OVERFLOW-VALVE --OFV080.html) so we'll see how well I can tailor the pressures with that. Admittedly I got the DRP - which is clearly advertised for a stock truck - because a) I didn't want to go retrofitting lines and fittings and wiring for a stock truck and b) at the time, this was going to remain a stock truck because I had no need to modify it. The breathing mods were simply for efficiency - and to keep EGTs as low as possible - and at 19mpg at 70mph (empty or light hauling)...I'd say it's working And I know enough not to cheap out on the clutch....which is part of the reason I don't want to smoke it, because I know it'll cost a pretty penny. But when I do it, I'm definitely going to do it right. I'll make the U-joints the weak link...they're easier to replace than the clutch! (somewhere I have an old driveshaft hoop from my drag racing days...maybe I'll toss that in just to be safe...). | ||
| Etennuly |
Joe you can call me bonehead, idiot, or what ever you might, as long as you call me! Lol ! I like the idea of a software tune in an ECM controlled engine before changing hardware, just like in our Buells. | ||
| Ratbuell |
I've finally chased/fixed the fuel pressure issues on my Cummins and have ordered an old-school Edge Comp box for it. 5 levels, each with 5 sub-levels of low-boost fueling. 40/60/80/100/120 hp for the main levels; 150/200/250/300/350 lb-ft. Fuel pressure was a combo - bad check valve on the VP44 allowing too much fuel to flow back, basically making it a "throughput" instead of building pressure (fixed with a tork teknologies adjustable return valve)...and boogered up filters. Even with the screwy check valve, the new filters net me 17psi fuel at idle and 12psi WFO pulling the trailer up the mountain. SO...I figure adding the valve, bumping the pressure...then adding the Edge...I should do just fine I figure level 1 will do just fine - a 20/150 bump? Should do me just fine for getting up the hills. Now to see how long the clutch lasts...any Southbend dealers on badweb? | ||
| Mr_grumpy |
After my long haul on the Guzzi down to GA the other week, I'm considering a truck again, so I could haul bike(s), gear and gf. I've long had a fancy for a 90-93 model D250LE extended cab with a Cummins. I like the idea of limited electronic problems and classic insurance. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Hopefully you either have deep pockets...or a deep appreciation for rust. Solid 1st gen trucks are pricey...and affordable ones are cancer victims. | ||
| Mr_grumpy |
True, in that case, I'd want a quad cab Ram. I'm looking for reliability rather than performance, bearing in mind Quebec winters. 4x4 would probably be handy for the same reason, but I've no idea how much difference that makes to the fuel figures. Likewise manual or auto I'm happy driving either but want bulletproofedness. I've got a large garage and plenty of tools so it'll be me doing the fettling not a dealer. What should I be looking at? | ||
| Ratbuell |
Mines 4x4 quad cab with the suicide rear doors. 8' bed. Six speed manual with 3.55 gears and I have no problem towing, I just use first gear to get moving (empty I start in second). The autos get eaten by the Cummins torque so unless you get one already built or leave it bone stock... I have about 235k on mine. To date it's gotten a FASS lift pump when the stock Carter pump died; a full Banks stainless exhaust; and a cold air filter. I'm hesitant about the Edge since I have no idea what clutch is in it or how old it is...but with this being the slow season for my sound company I can afford the downtime if it starts slipping. Late 01 (like mine) added the 6 speed instead of 5, and rear disc brakes. I like the smaller Dutch-door back seat but if you want to put people back there, get the 03-up full 4 doors. My back seat sees very rare human use and is usually for dogs and tools. Keep an eye out for rust. Door bottoms, rockers, floors, lower fenders, tops of fender openings. I've POR-15'd all my problem areas and I undercoat every fall and spring. I also take out the tail lights once a year to clean the tops of the fenders. Dirt drops thru the stake holes and collects, holds moisture, and starts the fender rust. | ||
| Figorvonbuellingham |
I've got a 94 12 valve with 408,000 miles on it. I just sold my 05 3500 4x4 common rail 5.9 I just didn't drive it enough. The 94 will suit my needs. If I ever come across a srw f350 4x4 that needs an engine Ill stick the 12 valve in it. Fummins. | ||
| Mr_grumpy |
I'll have to do a bit of research and see what's available here. | ||
| Etennuly |
If I ever come across a srw f350 4x4 that needs an engine Ill stick the 12 valve in it. I had an '04 F550 4x4 that I loved the truck, but hated that miserable problematic pos 6.0 diesel. After fixing everything..... again, I put it up for sale, and when nothing was happening there for months, I was just short of putting a Cummins in it when a happy Ford guy came along. He had to have it, in spite of being knowledgeable about the 6.0. I still think that would have been a great truck with the cummins in it. | ||
| Ratbuell |
The 6.0 can be a good motor. But, you have to do it right...since Ford didn't. Head studs, o-ringed gaskets, injectors, DPF delete, EGR delete, and let it breathe. I think the "perfect" truck would be a hybrid brand - I'm a Dodge guy so I'd love to see a Dodge body on it. Maybe something like the old square 1st gen trucks...or possibly something like the old Ford Expedition 3/4 ton SUV. Drop in a Cummins...and an Allison, if you need an automatic. Me, I'm still hooked on having three pedals | ||
| Etennuly |
You forgot the 6.0's turbo vanes, the inter cooler hose blow off problem, the de gasser tank, the oil pump failure, the ecm and it's wiring, the plugged intake, the electric clutch fan, the cross over exh pipe, the gas tank de laminating, the $160.00 oil Change at every 2500 miles. Yep, these and what you said were over a 45,000 mile period. Then most fail in another 45,000. Made decent power with fair mileage but it was a goo thing I could fix my own! | ||
| Stevel |
In my experience, the Dodge Cummins combination is the best pickup truck on the market. I have owned my 2004 3500 dually since new and it has been the best truck I have owned and I've owned many. Yes, there are some faults, but all vehicles have their own, but the Dodge ones are really minor. I am so impressed with modern diesels that I will never again own a gasoline utility vehicle. Diesels are simply driver friendly. They are economical, smoother and more reliable. They produce gobs of torque right off idle. Often not mentioned as an advantage over gasoline is the range as well, 800 miles and more is not unusual between refilling stops. Diesels are very easy to hot rod as well because they are insensitive to air/fuel ratio and very happy running super lean. Increasing the power output of a gasoline motor causes a corresponding loss of economy, but not so with a diesel. The HO 5.9 liter Cummins of 2004 had 305HP from the factory. Running a full Banks kit from intake manifold to tailpipe increased output power to just under 500HP and yet my fuel mileage has remained around 20 MPG without towing. That's not bad considering empty it weighs over 7500 lbs. and it is about as aerodynamic as an outhouse. Then, of course, there is the durability factor. Diesels simply run at lower rpm to make their power and engine wear increases logarithmically with engine speed. It is not unusual to see a million miles between major overhauls with high quality industrial engines. However, the advent of common rail technology has increased the failure rate of fuel injectors over the older single injection event predecessors. It is to be expected that 200,000 miles is the expected life of common rail injectors. It is also both unfortunate and grossly unfair the diesel receives so much bad press as a polluter, it is simply false. Consider that NOx emissions occur when combustion temperatures exceed 3500F in all engines, not just diesels. Consider also that the exhaust particulates from a diesel are both heavier than air and biodegradable where particulates from gasoline engines remain is atmospheric suspension and do not readily degrade. Then also consider that more than 90% of the world's NOx emissions are agriculturally caused yet 100% of NOx regulation enforcement is automotive and you begin to see the unfair bias toward the diesel engine. Then you have my particular frustration that these regulations are diametrically opposite to the advertised government goals. All of which is caused by the technically illiterate and politically correct idiots in charge. | ||
| Etennuly |
I totally agree with a diesel being the best choice in a medium size truck, ie, somewhere between pickup and big rig. My current big truck is a 2007 GMC 5500. It has a gas 8.1L. It was on propane when I got it, running empty at 5.6 mpg. I switched it over to gasoline, since then, being able to get 10.5 mpg empty. For a big block gas engine (496 cu. in.) it has a lot of torque, even down low, but with it's Allison automatic I can't keep it there. It will over ride the shift selector and or jump down a gear when it feels the need. I have been on long hills trying to feather the gas to keep it in 3rd at say 45 mph. Too much throttle load and it will kick down to second too early, and then it screams at 4500 rpms or you have to back your speed down to say 35 to keep your sanity. I would rather it stay in third and ride the torque until I decide it needs to drop down a gear. Once it kicks down a gear it will not shift back up until the load scenario changes. I'd bet someone probably makes an adjustable shift programmer. Empty, loaded, trailer, or whatever, it easily gets the job done, but a diesel sure would be nicer in this size of a truck. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Vern - just about all of the programmers have transmission setup choices as well. I'm willing to bet if you google "8.1 Allison programmer" you'll get plenty of hits and can sort through the product websites to see who offers what. Another nice thing about a stick...I can make use of a "cheap" programmer that only tweaks timing, fuel, and boost Since I already have analog gauges, I don't need the new fancy-schmancy "monitored" tuners. All in all though... I agree with the 2 posts above. I fail to understand the concept / reasoning behind putting a gas engine in a "heavy duty" vehicle. It's just...silly. Diesel's the way to go - not only for heavy work, but I love the "small" 3.0 VM Motori in my Grand Cherokee. Quiet, clean, torquey, and my 5500 lb all wheel drive luxo-SUV gets me 25mpg short-commuting in the mountains. Love it. Erik? Where's our diesel 2 wheeler??? | ||
| Etennuly |
Well my two wheeler is a.....well you know what that is. On the other hand my JD 4x4 tractor is a 3 cyl Yanmar 37 hp turbo diesel. Love that thing for all it does. The diesel is the only way to go for mowing, bush hogging, dirt digging, grading and all of the crazy amount of things I use it for. I believe the PO corporation of my GMC was victimized by the gobmt getting tax rebates or deferments for running propane, the "other green gas" bullshit propaganda they put out. They ran a large fleet, with their propane stationed truck lot within range of a load of fuel. "Alternative fuel" tax breaks don't mean better, cleaner, or more efficient.....just alternative. Otherwise I believe these trucks would have been better being diesel powered. | ||
| Ceejay |
any years/things to watch out for with the cummins/dodge? I had a 7.3 F250 which I loved. with a little effort I could get it sideways, more than a few times I carried my whole family, groceries, a ton of screenings, with a skid steer on a trailer. The thing didn't even sweat. Sadly it "spontaneously" combusted due to a faulty block heater and totalled the truck. Since I can't stand the path Ford has followed with the look of thier trucks I'm thinking a cummins would do what I want it to do nicely, but I've always been a Ford guy... | ||
| Etennuly |
I have known them by association and owning my first new one in '98, and I do not recall having heard of a bad year for the Cummins 6 cyl turbo diesel. My brother has a 2007 dually 4x4 quad cab 6 speed, that now has over 350,000. He says it is still strong and dependable and still averaging around 20 mpg with 2000 lbs + on board at all times. It is his third Cummins. That 7.3 was a very good engine for Ford. Everyone that I know that had one never saw one get above 12 mpg in stock form though, even in the lightest 3/4 ton trucks. | ||
| Aesquire |
Since I'm also in the market for a new to me... used truck, I'm curious too about which years to favor & avoid. The Ford 6 litre seems to be a major turkey, fixable, but not cheap. On the Cummings, is it best to go for the common rail models? Naturally, I live in the Rust belt, and finding a relatively low rust truck is first priority, but after still having a cab attached to the frame, knowing which years are best would be nice. | ||
| Ceejay |
I only really paid attention to the fuel mileage once, the rest of the time I just paid the penalty and called it good, cost of doing business I guess, but I'm pretty sure I once got ~18 mpg from cbus to pburg and back. All freeway, wife and kids, some furniture in the back. Dropping a franklin at the pump wasnt fun though. Back around 2000 diesel used to be cheaper than gas, not sure of the exact year but it flipped and hasn't returned. When I used to do cool stuff - I tested two new cummins turbo V10's and pumped 100% soy into them. The lab rats we "smoked" fared considerably better than conventional diesel and according to the motor dyno we were pulling 730 lbft of torque, in 1999. I really like the cummins but since I've always been partial to fords I never got to the point of owning enough to know. Had some friends with the 6.0 PWS and they haven't had any issues, but to them pulling a set of heads is something they do while drinking beer - that's hobby time. Had a friend with a Dodge 06(maybe) 2500 manual. He babied it and started having issues with the cat clogging up(according to him) I asked him for the keys, meaning I'll take care of it, but he traded it for a SUV shortly thereafter. More money than common sense I guess. That's been the only problem I've heard with them. Good luck finding anything over 10 yrs old without rust up there. Living in "south" now I can't understand why I see newer cars all the time. Must be something to do with the driving around here... | ||
| Ratbuell |
Rust is self-explanatory (and usually self-evident). 12v trucks (pre-98) had mechanical fuel injection. Rock solid but lower power/tq...also less thirsty. 98.5-02 second gen trucks are early common rail trucks. Get a fuel pressure gauge and monitor what's going into the VP44 injection pump. "not-used" fuel is what lubes and cools the pump on its return trip to the tank; anything below 5psi is quick death, anything under 10psi for long periods of time is a gradual death. Lift pumps are $400. Injection pumps are $2400. Keep them alive ANY Cummins (no "G") will eat an automatic if you don't keep an eye on trans temp. I had an 05, bone stock automatic, that I bought new. First week I owned it I put a trans temp gauge in it. Using "tow/haul" on the shifter got me 200 degree lower trans temps, even empty. I used it every time I drove the truck. My current truck is a 6 speed stick, with 3.55's. I own and routinely tow up and down a mountain, about 7,000 lbs worth of trailer and electronics with no real problem. I'm adding an Edge Comp tuner for a little more reserve-oomph under boost on grades. Towing, I actually use first gear. Empty, I normally see 22mpg on the highway. Unless you're towing 20k...4.10s are a waste of time and fuel. cumminsforum.com is the badweb for Cummins trucks. Search by generation you're looking at, and you'll find more info than you need And if you search, you can find nice western rust-free trucks online. I got mine in 2010, in Carlisle PA...but it was a lifetime AZ truck. Guy I got it from hunts western rust-free trucks and brings 'em east. They're a little more $, but you get what you pay for. Mine, since then, I've put a lift pump on ($200), added gauges, open element air filter, Banks turbo-back exhaust, steering brace....fuel, and oil changes. Nothings broken, nothing's failed, and it hasn't let me down any more than any 200k+ mile vehicle of any sort would. Just...maintenance. And it's paid for. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Tuner. Mmmmmm....happy face. Wired in an Edge Comp tuner box. 5 levels, each level has 5 sub-levels for low-boost fueling (how much smoke do you want? Otherwise known as "throttle responsiveness"). 1 hour install - feed a wire loom through the firewall grommet from the engine bay. Inside the cab, the large connector plugs into the tuner box. There's a power lead and the kit came with a 10A fuse that already has a wire soldered to it. Swap the fuse, plug in the power lead, done in the cab. Oh, mount the box (I attached it to my brake controller, over my right knee). Underhood: unplug the MAP sensor. Plug one connector on the Edge harness into the sensor; the other plugs into the vehicle harness. Plug a third connector into the underhood datalink connector. Then, remove 3 bolts to access the top of the injector pump. Strip about 1/2" of harness wrap. Put a crimp-tap on one wire, plug a harness connector into it. Reinstall the cover and its 3 bolts. Remove a fourth bolt and put a ring-terminal-ed wire under it for ground. Done. And HOLY CRAP, it's a different truck!! I've got level 1 set for minimum-response; I'll use that to tow so I don't smoke a clutch. Shakedown run with an empty truck, my boost went from a prior 24psi max, right up to a 30psi reading. ON LEVEL ONE. Went and fueled up, reset my EVIC's MPG display. Put it on level 3, full advance. Ran a couple errands on a route that would normally net me a 16.7-17.4 mpg on the overhead. Truck was about 1000% responsive, just cruising around town, running in traffic, and about 15 miles on the highway. My overhead is showing 19.6 mpg. I **LIKE** diesel tuners  |
