| Author | Message | ||
     Blakeaspencer |
I've been running bel ray oil in my bikes for years now. What viscosity do you guys run? Can I use the same for engine and primary? I'm fairly new to the buell motor. Any advice would be appreciated, thanks. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Most of us run our favorite 20W-50 in the engine. Lots of people here run synthetic (Amsoil, Mobil-1, etc.), but there are a few dino users as well. Either is fine. At least one Uly rider runs straight weight oil (viscosity depending on the temps). IIRC, the manual calls for 60W (!) in high temperatures. Most of us find that Harley's Formula+ works best in the transmission/primary, although some people run 20W-50 in that as well. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Blake, remember your XB has two oil compartments. That means two fluid changes, but it actually helps you as well. There are things that can make a good motor oil that hurt a wet clutch and gearbox. And there are things that can help oil in a wet clutch and gearbox but that would be devastating if you ever got them in a combustion chamber. So the "secret sauce" for BelRay, which I though was getting the right balance between the two trade offs in one oil, isn't as important for an XB. For the motor, any full synthetic 20w50 should have little problem lubricating effectively for 5000 miles in most circumstances. Though there are quality differences, I can't get the cheap Castrol Syntec 20w50 anymore, but when I could get it, I had an XB that would burn it twice as fast as any other 20w50 oil (which makes me think they were cheating). A non synthetic 20w50 will work fine too, but in an air cooled motor it is already measurably breaking down after 1500 miles, so most people stick with full synthetic to get more margin. For the gearbox, the safest stuff that stands up to the gear meshing (which chops up long chain hydrocarbons) but doesn't eat up stator insulation or bronze pieces of transmission seems to be the Harley full synthetic gear oil (Formula+). Normal 20w50 will work fine in the transmission without all the fancy additives that gear oil has, but it probably won't last as long (the real gear oil has a 10k mile replacement interval). | ||
| Blakeaspencer |
Ok, thanks first of all. I would rather change the oil often for now so ill stick to regular. Isn't the tranny the same oil compartment as the engine? Why is gear oil preferred in the primary when the main concern is the clutch and stator? Sorry if I'm asking dumb questions. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Blake- No, unlike most Japanese motorcycles, air-cooled HD/Buell engines have separate "compartments" for the engine and transmission lube oil. In the case of your Uly, the engine has a dry sump lubrication system with oil stored in the swingarm. The transmission, clutch, and primary chain are lubricated separately. There is no interchange/mixing of the oil between the two systems. The engine holds ~2.5 quarts of oil including the filter; the transmission/primary holds 1 quart of oil. DON'T use "gear oil" (GL-5 75W-90 or whatever) in the primary/transmission. Several of us have found out the hard way that additives in that oil attack the stator insulation eventually leading to failure. When the Uly was introduced in 2005 (2006 model year), Harley came out with a new lubricant specifically for these transmissions called Formula+. It's not mandatory that you run this lubricant but this oil is specifically optimized for the transmission and especially the clutch in these bikes and most of us that use it swear by it. | ||
| Blakeaspencer |
Ok, I understand now. I'll use formula+ for the primary. Will different weights and viscosities change performance or longevity of my engine? I ride all year so should I use different weight from winter to summer? | ||
| Teeps |
Blakeaspencer Posted on Monday, November 16, 2015 - I've been running bel ray oil in my bikes for years now. * What viscosity do you guys run? ** Can I use the same for engine and primary? * Ulysses does not seem to care, in over 35000 miles (ENGINE ONLY) I have used 15w40, 20w50, 50 & 60 wt oils. Most were full synthetic, some were not. My main concern was the flash point of the oil; a higher flash point rather than lower. Currently in the ENGINE, is Valvoline Super HPO SAE 60 Motor Oil. Last year it had Valvoline VV855 Racing Synthetic 20W50 NOT STREET LEGAL Motor Oil Also have used this Valvoline 679082 VR1 Synthetic Racing Formula 20W-50, Mobil 1 V-Twin 20w50 (included by original owner of the bike) and Shell Rotella. ** Many have but, I have only used Formula + (only takes a quart, price is right.) gets changed way too often (2500 to 3k miles) by Buell maintenance requirements. edit: changed 5w40 to 15w40 that was Shell Rotella. (Message edited by teeps on November 16, 2015) | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
My 2004 xb 12s did run valvoline DX4 20w50 and mobil 80w90 gl4 in the transmission have switched to belray exp 20w50 and still using 80w90 in the trans now. | ||
| Greg_e |
My 9R hates 40wt, I use Mobile1 V-Twin in both and it runs cooler than Mobile1 4T 10-40. | ||
| Etennuly |
I ran mobil 1 20-50 in my then broke in new City x.....all gone in 500 miles! Went back to the SM recommended oils. No problems. Found with my '06 Uly it is noisy with synthetics and it looses over a quart in 2500 miles. Back to non synthetic weights per season by the SM and no problems. The past couple of years I changed to Rotella 15 40 non synthetic, in the heat of summer I add a pint of STP or Lucas to make up for 60W not being available in my area, unless I feel like financing a couple of quarts at HD(not going there!). Now at 63,000 still no smoke on start up and no leakage. | ||
| Aesquire |
I run the H-D synthetic in my primary, and good synthetic in the engine. I'm brand neutral for engine oil, but since the trans & primary have a wet clutch and electric bits, I am careful not to use Mobil-1 gear oil. It may dissolve the glue holding the magnets on. I do favor synthetic in the engine. I've looked under the valve covers & there is zero goo. Cheap oil will "burn" on top of the combustion chamber and leave varnish. Synthetic won't. Imho you can safely run 5k miles on synthetic, and 2k miles on dinosaur oil, and the synthetic is still good, while the dinosaur oil is breaking down. However, oil choice is a religious issue, and flame wars get started with your question on many motorcycle forums.  | ||
| Blakeaspencer |
I agree this is a religious topic. So i dont have a manual yet, what does it say about winter/summer weights? It used up a pint of engine oil in the past 3,000 miles. Is that normal? Or should I check on that? | ||
| Teeps |
A pint in 3k miles. You're bike is in the zone. Add a pint and ride on Blake! | ||
| Ourdee |
Last weekend my local HD dealer had formula + for under $10 a quart. | ||
| Aesquire |
Etennuly, How often do you change engine oil? Just curious. I know crazy people that run Amsoil in their Volvos for 10,000 miles, and change filters, top off, and run another 10,000. I think they are penny wise & pound foolish, since even if the oil maintains it's lubricating properties, it gets dirty. So I plan cars at 5000. In my Cyclone, It's seasonal, or 5000, whichever comes first, since the bike sits all winter. | ||
| Etennuly |
I change oil at 2800 to 3000 miles. | ||
| Fresnobuell |
It doesn't matter if you change at frequent intervals. Top-tier synthetics like Amsoil is good for extended interval changes (on cars.) The best Amsoil lets you go a year or 25,000 miles. I was cool with that on my F-150, but with maintenance minders on most cars now, I think most people just do what the computer says. Just change it at 3,000 miles or 1 year. | ||
| Tpehak |
Are you using the right motorcycle for your oil? |
