| Author | Message | ||
     Scout1475 |
Well my clutch went out so i opened the side up and saw some thing weird 3 drilled out spots in rotor assembly. i don't know if any performance work has been done on the bike (98 M2). but i know it will put my 98 sportster 1200 to shame. Has any one seen this or know why this was done.I am not going to mess with the engine it pulls hard and will snap you back when you get on it. heres a pic of my bike i bought it used in Maryland a couple years ago. | ||
| Scout1475 |
well cant load pics but hope someone knows what i'm talking about or i can email some one pics so they can upload them. | ||
| Scout1475 |
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| Akbuell |
Pretty sure those were done to balance the rotor. Being bolted directly to the crank means proper balance is pretty important. Hope this helps, Dave | ||
| Scout1475 |
well got it done hard figuring out that resize stuff  | ||
| Scout1475 |
Thanks dave i figured is was for that just never seen it done on any HD factory built bikes or any pics of buell with it done. I just got a 98 sportster to chop out, and my m2 will flat out spank it. well till i wiped out the clutch. I live in Washington DC and you need to be kind of a aggressive rider to be safe. and it fun leaving the cars setting at the lights. i am hoping some one might know more about the bike. and if any work has been done to it. | ||
| Reepicheep |
My M2 had those holes drilled. | ||
| 46champ |
The drilled holes are not always there. They are to balance the rotor on an as needed basis. Your M2 should spank your Sportster it is 50 lbs lighter with a little more horsepower. | ||
| Rick_a |
How many miles? Those clutches are hard to smoke. | ||
| Hootowl |
My X1 has those holes too. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Smoked, or crazy-far out of adjustment? | ||
| Scout1475 |
23K on the clock Smoked 1.27 height so about .25 something from min height. ordered new BDL extra plate kit should be in soon just trying to figure out what fluid i should put in. might start a thread on that, to see what others use. Had amsoil synthetic. Energy one recommends --ATF Type F. (No Dextron. Has slipping adjacencies.) --20/50 motor oil - no synthetics. --B&M trick shift works very well. BDL might recommend something i will have to see.  | ||
| Greg_e |
Why no synthetics? My XB works very well with Mobile 1 V-Twin 20/50 synthetic in both holes. Same for the new to me Harley, though I haven't put enough on the change to really be certain. | ||
| Scout1475 |
Have looked all over the web. If you want to start a fight this might be the topic to have at a bar I dont know so many things that are out thare probably go with Mobil 1 reg. Have it at local car parts place 5.99 a quart can bump up the changes and still comeout ahead. I think I payed 14.99 for asmoil at the dealer but they made me mad so might be a while till I set back in thare. | ||
| Reepicheep |
It can become an emotional topic. The biggest concern is putting Mobil 1 gear oil into the primary. There is concern and anecdotal evidence that it may lead to stator failures. Full synthetic in the engine will last longer before breaking down, and will withstand higher temperatures before breaking down. Normal oil of the correct viscosity will also work fine, until it breaks down too far. Non synthetic starts to measurably break down in less than 2000 miles. Full synthetic won't flat spot roller bearings, but neither will synthetic make an engine magically bullet proof. I personally wouldn't run an air cooled motor with anything but full synthetic unless I knew I was changing the oil every 1000 miles or so (for example on a dirt bike, or during break in). | ||
| Steveford |
It's Mobil gear oil (the 85/90W) that will destroy the stator in real short order because it contains sulfur. Regular old Mobil 1 15/50W is fine. |
