Author |
Message |
Jeepinbueller
| Posted on Wednesday, August 26, 2015 - 10:14 am: |
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edit: Crap. Sorry for posting this on the QB, meant it for the 1125 board. Is this a possibility? Without an answer yet on if/when my lathe buddy can whip up a simple crankshaft locking tool, would using a crow's foot socket work? Is there enough room within the rotor to get a 32 mm crow in there? That way I can just hold the crank with a wrench on its hex flats. Multiple friends just telling me to go at it with an electric impact and deep 32 mm, but I'm worried about damaging drivetrain goodies. Summer is burning away! Any hints or tricks? Also, if the crow's foot works for removal, I'll probably just torque it using the crow's foot, too, but oriented 90° from the torque wrench barrel so 295 ft-lbs should translate directly through. Any ... "lessons learned" from someone who's tried? Technically it should work. (Message edited by jeepinbueller on August 26, 2015) |
Tootal
| Posted on Wednesday, August 26, 2015 - 11:24 am: |
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Find a hinge or some other 1/8" or so piece of steel 4" long and put it between the sprockets. Works like a charm. Round the ends with a file or grinder to get a better hold. |
M1combat
| Posted on Thursday, August 27, 2015 - 01:44 am: |
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That does work but you need to use the longest piece of metal you can and still get it to jam the sprockets. The reason is that if it's too short it will try to pass through between the sprockets and put "a lot" of spreading force on the crank bearing, trans main shaft bearing and the cases themselves. Be careful. |
Stevel
| Posted on Thursday, August 27, 2015 - 02:20 am: |
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This is a really bad plan............don't do it! The risk of very expensive damage is very high. The ONLY solution is an impact wrench and a 3/4" one at that. In fact, even the crank locking tool is not up to the 300 ft/lb task. |
Nillaice
| Posted on Thursday, August 27, 2015 - 04:44 am: |
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Jeepin Did you get my PM? |
Hughlysses
| Posted on Thursday, August 27, 2015 - 07:47 am: |
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He's talking about an 1125 and some of you are giving recommendations for crank locking based on XB's/tubers. Beware of home-made 1125 crank locking tools. There has been at least one near-disaster from using one. |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Thursday, August 27, 2015 - 09:33 am: |
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Agreed Hugh. I don't have an 1125, and I am the worlds biggest cheapskate. But even I wouldn't go anywhere near an 1125 crank with anything but the official factory crank locking tool. |
Jeepinbueller
| Posted on Friday, August 28, 2015 - 04:53 pm: |
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I didn't get your PM until just now! Thanks! Yeah, I wasn't planning on jamming anything into anything, so don't worry. I'm in the middle of a house search right now, too, so this is a slow repair... I'm using the downtime to change the spark plugs and other maintenance. Replace the drive belt with 24k mi on it, while I'm there. Righto: we're talking about the Helicon. Is Twin's crank tool out of .NL worth it for the ease? Wanna have one for myself. (Message edited by jeepinbueller on August 28, 2015) |
Hughlysses
| Posted on Friday, August 28, 2015 - 04:57 pm: |
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If you check the 1125 sub-forum, I believe there's an OEM crank locking tool that they're passing around so you can avoid buying your own. Edit- Thread here: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290431/734073.html?1440606392 (Message edited by Hughlysses on August 28, 2015) |
Jeepinbueller
| Posted on Monday, August 31, 2015 - 11:18 am: |
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I've got one on the way from a member whom I'm eternally grateful to. Thanks for the help everybody. Hopefully everything comes off easily and it's just the sprag that's chewed. |
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