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Steveford
Posted on Sunday, July 12, 2015 - 06:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Show me a man who doesn't like boots and I'll show you a man who likes sneakers.

A few months back it was time to go boot shopping as my Sidi motorcycle boots and cheap Wally World boots were pretty much worn out. I needed some decent boots for the Summer and a pair for the Winter. The Winter boot was easy as I lucked into a pair of waterproof Sidi motorcycle boots for $50 on eBay but the Summer boot presented a bit of a problem.
It had to be either made in the US or Italy, offer ankle protection, last for at least a decade without any issues and not be too hot. How hard could that be to find?



B Is For Boots

To give some background, many years ago I got frostbite on both feet which caused the soles to become black and slough off. The skin underneath just never toughened up and it left me sensitive to chemicals, they're always running hot and they'll throb all Winter if I let them get cold early in the season.
I'm afraid that the Italians get eliminated from contention pretty early on as the only durable ones, that I've found, are made by Sidi and they have outsourced all of their plain jane looking boots to Romania which is evidently Italy's Mexico. They've also sized them oddly as they're now at least one full size too big. In the past Sidis were always sized a bit on the small size but not any longer. They now run HUGE and the section for the heel allows a ton of slop.
That left the US manufacturers and the Big 3 are Thorogood, Chippewa and Red Wing. You have to shop carefully as all 3 of them outsource a good portion of their line up. Double check the tag for Country of Origin.
For motorcycle use, the Thorogood boots just seem to be too light weight so I really didn't pursue them very far. They do look like they would be a really good walking around in boot, though. I'm just sure that I'd destroy them in short order.
The Chippewa boots are decently constructed and their Rally boot works out well but are a bit much for a true Dog Days of Summer boot. They're nice in that they have a leather shifter patch and are tall enough where you can tuck your leathers into if need be.
This left the Red Wing boots which are a bit of an addiction once they sucker you in. Mine happened with a pair of used $70 Pecos steel toe shit kickers. They presented a bit of a problem but were just so well made (and incredibly heavy) that I had to persevere.
What kind of a problem? Well, once a boot is worn to a certain degree you can NOT walk them into being YOUR boots. You'll only injure your knees so they'll need a rebuild. If you buy used boots factor in the cost of new heels and you'll probably want to replace the insoles if they're removable. If the boots do not have removable insoles, be aware that they've formed to somebody else's feet and gait.
For removable insoles, my problem is "shoe allergy" which means the latex and other rubbers set my feet on fire. It feels like a chemical burn and the only insole that I've found which I can tolerate is made by yoursole.com. They offer a staggering variety of insoles but it's basically Silver for a low rise, Red for a medium rise and Black for a high rise. Red Wing rebrands the black ones which worked out well in the Pecos boots where there's a ton of room between the top of your foot and the inside of the boot.

[center][/center]

You can mess around a bit with the height of the insoles to keep a boot from not only being too large but to keep one from being too hot. If your foot is squished up against a water proof boot, go for a lower insole.
If a very mild shim is needed a cobbler can whip you up a set of leather insoles. You DO want to become good friends with a local cobbler.
Getting back to the chemical burn, they use all sorts of really nasty chemicals in the tanning process and if these affect your feet, I've found that loading the boots up with baking soda overnight will take care of about 90% of it. What's left will bother you for a few days but then the burn is gone. I figured that if it will neutralize battery acid it would do the trick for tanning chemicals and it does.

For a cool running Summer boot I wanted one that was simply all leather, no insole, no GoreTex, no nothing. Just a plain old boot like you used to buy at the local Army and Navy store.
[center]
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There's only one major company that offers boots like that nowadays and that's the Red Wing Heritage line. They're priced stupidly high so that's why God invented eBay which is where dealers unload their surplus inventory.
Here's where it gets tricky: sizing.
My feet are two different sizes with the right one being shorter and wide, the left one being long and narrow. It's not by a whole lot and I'm told that is pretty much the norm. For all intents and purposes I'm a 10D.
The manufacturers have a 10D sole but if there's no padding or removable insole or waterproof liner, it's huge. If the toe box is pointy, it's going to be pretty darn snug. This is why all boots simply don't fit the same. There are just too many variables going on and every one will change the fit.
Generally speaking, a pointy boot will fit true to size and you can take up the extra slop with one of the various yoursole inserts.
A padded or waterproof boot with an inserts will generally run true to size.
A regular old all leather boot with no padding, no waterproof liner, no inserts will generally run one full size large.
You can futz around a little bit with shrinking boots by soaking them in warm water for an hour and then letting them dry in the sun but don't expect a tremendous amount of change in the boot.
You can get them wet and carefully heat them with a hair dryer but they're not going to shrink dramatically.
You can add inserts and padding but that kind of defeats the purpose of an unlined, all leather boot.
If you do have to have padding added, a cobbler can add orthotic foam and if that's not enough, you can go to Home Depot and get a roll of cork with adhesive on one side, trim it to fit and stick it in there. A top layer of leather over the cork will finish it off as I would think the unprotected cork would disintegrate over time. This is a good trick if you have chicken legs like I do; the boots are always too large up at the top closure.

[center][/center]

Now that you've FINALLY found something suitable, it's time to break them in.
There are a few different methods, one of which is to thoroughly soak the boots in warm water and then wear them for 18 hours until they've dried out. This works well but it makes for a very long, uncomfortable day. You'd want to engage in non strenuous activity as the idea is to have the boot dry to the shape of your foot, not get all stretched out of shape.
For used boots with a leather insole, I think you'd want to get them wet and let them conform to your feet.
Another method is to simply buy a bag of new socks and walk them into submission. My dog really likes this method!
They're going to feel like cement right off the bat so set them out in the sun and give them a good oiling and let the oil penetrate which will help to loosen things up a little bit. Every day they'll feel a little bit better and eventually, they'll fit like a glove.
I normally use Lexol leather conditioner on my leathers but it won't penetrate boot polish so you'll need to use an oil. I use Red Wing's boot oil simply because I know it'll be compatible with what I'm putting it on. One nice thing is if you buy the oil at the retailer they'll refill the bottle for 50% off.
I'm leery of Mink Oil as I know it will eventually deteriorate the threads on motorcycle jackets and pants. Perhaps it's different with boots but once burned, twice shy.
I'm afraid that I own more boots than are pictured which kind of makes me the Imelda Marcos of motorcycle footwear. I tell wiseacres that I'm trying to get in touch with my inner lesbian.
There are also a few more pair that I'd like to get so I suppose it's a sickness but it could be worse.
This is not meant to be a definitive treatise on boots, these are simply my observations after much trial and error.
The best advice I can give anyone is to simply buy whatever you want the first time. There really is no cheap way to get a high quality pair of boots. They're going to run a couple hundred bucks but they can always be rebuilt and a good pair of boots is a good thing to have.
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Etennuly
Posted on Monday, July 13, 2015 - 10:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well you shot my theory of shopping for boots all to hell. Thanks!

I have a bit of a phobia about wearing other's shoes or boots, and I hate it when someone slips mine on, so any used boots are out for me.

My current summer riding boots are vented side zipper Bilt brand from Cycle Gear. My current walking boots are water proof leather Aslo brand(from Romania), and my winter riding boots are HD leather high top slip-ons. The latter two pairs I have had for more than ten years. I have to admit I do wear sneekers most of the time.

My wife hates going shoe shopping with me. It is the only time I will be in a store longer than her. I find what I am interested in, put one on and walk around the store for half an hour or more. If it feels good I will put the other one on and go another twenty minutes. Then I pay attention to how my feet feel after I remove them.

When I buy a boot that is right for me I will keep them around a while. I still have a pair of slip on high top leather steel toed strap boots that I bought while in high school. That goes back forty years. I had the heels and sole liners replaced many years ago. I don't need them often, but when a need for steel toes comes up they still get it done.
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Bluzm2
Posted on Monday, July 13, 2015 - 11:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Nice write up Mr. Ford.
I too struggle with boots but certainly not to your extent..

I've had a pair of Prexport WP360's for about 15 years. Had them resoled a while by Resole America (highly recommended). They have really reached the end of their life. That sucks, I love them, they fit like a slipper and Prexport no longer imports them to America.. Boo.
I just picked up a pair of FirstGear Mesh Lows I haven't worn them much so the jury is out.
I've got a pair of Sidi's I hate them, never wear them anymore. Alpine Stars are too narrow for me.

My next pair of road boots to replace the Prexports will probably be Garne's

For dress shoes I've settled on Allan Edmonds. Expensive as hell but worth it. Plus my son works there... helps a bit but not a ton.
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Steveford
Posted on Monday, July 13, 2015 - 12:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Crud, two staples are popping up through the leather insole on a Red Wing Iron Ranger which is really disappointing.
Looks like I'm going to have to stick in a slim leather insole and some baking soda and go through the foot burn again.
The dog will be happy, though, more walkies...
I only had one pair of Alpine Stars and they split along the seam where the sole joins up after one year which really pissed me off. Into the garbage they went.
A guy at work had the same thing happen to his so it wasn't just an isolated incident.
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Sifo
Posted on Monday, July 13, 2015 - 02:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I would talk to Red Wing about your issues. I've not had problems with mine, but they messed up a pair re-soling of my friends and they gave him an incredible deal on a brand new pair. Give them a chance to make it right.
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Court
Posted on Monday, July 13, 2015 - 05:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I live in AMERICAN MADE Red Wing 4418's and love them . . . . other than they take about 4 years to break in. I always keep one new pair in the office.
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Steveford
Posted on Monday, July 13, 2015 - 06:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

They do market them as a tough guy boot but having staple bumps get you in the ball of your foot is tougher than I care to get.
I did write them so we'll see what transpires.
What needs to be done is to remove the leather strip, somehow buzz or snip the staples flush and then recover them with perhaps a slightly thicker leather strip.
The problem is that the offending staples are way the hell up in the boot where you can't really get at them.
Other than that, the boots fit perfectly after a rather arduous break in period!
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86129squids
Posted on Monday, July 13, 2015 - 08:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Might be good to find a cobbler. Maybe someone with that expertise could fix things...

Court- I'd definitely be afraid to walk a mile in your new shoes... :0
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86129squids
Posted on Monday, July 13, 2015 - 08:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"I have a bit of a phobia about wearing other's shoes or boots, and I hate it when someone slips mine on, so any used boots are out for me."

... so, those boots you test drove for an hour would be "used" by you by then, no?

"My wife hates going shoe shopping with me. It is the only time I will be in a store longer than her. I find what I am interested in, put one on and walk around the store for half an hour or more. If it feels good I will put the other one on and go another twenty minutes. Then I pay attention to how my feet feel after I remove them."







You're funny. But then I figured that out some time ago.

(Message edited by 86129squids on July 14, 2015)
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Steveford
Posted on Tuesday, July 14, 2015 - 06:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Back from the cobbler and it was nails from the heels which were up too high and then staples a bit further up into the sole around mid-foot.
He removed the leather insole, smacked everything into submission and then I put in some thin leather insoles that he whipped up.
I am now good to go with the Iron Rangers so it's time to go walk Fido some more.
Arf!
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Etennuly
Posted on Tuesday, July 14, 2015 - 08:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yeah, I used them Brad.....but at least with new sox and foot powder. There is a 90% chance I am going to buy what I try on. I go into it knowing what I want, it is just a bad fit that turns me away at that point. I usually try on one pair per trip to a store, then I buy them, or go on without them.

I am funny when I am hanging with fellow Buellers and or consuming mountain spring water.....I'm just odd in the real world.
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86129squids
Posted on Tuesday, July 14, 2015 - 09:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Toe jam, Vern. Toe jam.
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Steveford
Posted on Friday, July 17, 2015 - 09:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I read a tip about break in: while Lexol will not penetrate boot polish it CAN be used on the inside of a leather boot to help soften things up a bit.
I gave it a shot tonight as this one inside seam at the base of the tongue is killing my right foot and the left insole is taking forever to mold itself into the proper shape on this one pair of boots.
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Tootal
Posted on Sunday, July 19, 2015 - 11:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My old Oxtar boots are worn and the sole is getting slick but they still don't leak after all these years. They were bought out and the new products are not near as good from what I've read. A real shame, best riding boots I've ever owned. Oxtar used to make boots for others like BMW. When they finally die I don't know what I'll do next. I had some Gaerne boots a long time ago and they weren't bad either, may look at them when the time comes.
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Daddio
Posted on Sunday, July 19, 2015 - 06:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Tootal--
find a good cobbler, and see if they can be resoled and reheeled. I had to take an hour ride (each way, no including the construction zone) through the Black Hills into Wyoming where I'd found a guy to full-sole and heel my boots. Cost almost as much as these boots did new, 7 or 8 years ago...
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Steveford
Posted on Monday, July 27, 2015 - 04:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I've worn them pretty much non-stop for a few days now and I can recommend the Red Wing Heritage Engineer boot if you're looking for a pull on.
Go down one full size from what you measure and you'll be good to go.
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Norcal_blast
Posted on Monday, July 27, 2015 - 05:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Two American boot makers to look at: Whites and Nicks Boots. Both are located in Spokane and are 100% American made.

Whites and Nicks made their reputations with their smokejumper/hot shot firefighter boots and also make general outdoor/ranching/hunting boots.

Their boots are custom made to your measurements so if you have different size feet, need a wide toe box combined with a narrow heel or have some other fit issue, no problem.
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Rwven
Posted on Tuesday, July 28, 2015 - 07:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Tootal says: My old Oxtar boots are worn and the sole is getting slick but they still don't leak after all these years. They were bought out and the new products are not near as good from what I've read. A real shame, best riding boots I've ever owned. Oxtar used to make boots for others like BMW. When they finally die I don't know what I'll do next. I had some Gaerne boots a long time ago and they weren't bad either, may look at them when the time comes.

Tootal, Those same boots are now made by TCX who bought out Oxtar some years ago. I had a pair of Oxtar Air Tech's for about 10 years and they started to leak, I replaced them with the TCX Air Techs and they are virtually the same boot. I assume you have the Oxtar Matrix boot (I also have a pair of those that look kind of ratty but are still comfortable and dry) The TCX version of that is called the X-Five. Same boot updated.

(Message edited by rwven on July 28, 2015)
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Cyclonedon
Posted on Wednesday, July 29, 2015 - 12:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I purchased a pair of Milwaukee leather motorcycle boots a few years back at the Chicago IMS thinking I was getting American made boots but when I got them home I discovered they were made in China! That kinda pissed me off but I still have them but I don't think I'll ever purchase another pair again!
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Normthenomad
Posted on Wednesday, July 29, 2015 - 12:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Wesco, many styles custom fit. Company rebuilds as necessary. Have had my current pair of linesman style 22 years. Cheap boots are not good and good boots are not cheap. Fit like I'd owned them for years first day I put them on.
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