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Ratbuell
| Posted on Monday, November 25, 2013 - 11:49 pm: |
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I've done tons of work in the business - for the better part of 25 years off and on. I know how to wire it all. I know how to get the tech squared away. My question is...what sort of structural stuff have you done? I have a room. In my basement. 3 walls are block. One wall is stud (where I'll put the window and the booth will be on the other side of that wall). Ceiling is drop tile under wood joist (dining room above). Floor is slab with foam-rubber "romper room" tiles on it at the moment. Preliminary off-the-cuff guesses? - fill the void over the drop ceiling with spray foam - get a double-pane window for the wall - fill the wall with spray foam - line the interior of the room with eggcrate foam. Power is in place. Audio I can put in place. Purpose? Mainly band rehearsals, also some recording (down the road, once I get the software for multitracking). Concerns? Vibrations into the home structure, vibrations into furnishings and "stuff that can break". Not so worried about disturbing occupants because...well...*I* make up the entire occupant list. Other than the dogs, but they stay in the yard when we're making noise. Thoughts? |
Ourdee
| Posted on Tuesday, November 26, 2013 - 12:57 am: |
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Can you lay carpet over the romper room tiles? |
Vtpeg
| Posted on Tuesday, November 26, 2013 - 06:38 am: |
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Just built an "acoustical" wall per bosses specs. We used dense pack cellulose rather than foam. He claims it quiets more than foam but when pressed couldn't tell me the any STC, just a dumb look. Needless to say, the ladies in the yoga studio next door knew when we were hanging sheet rock and not impressed. Time will tell how it works for conversational noise. |
Xdigitalx
| Posted on Tuesday, November 26, 2013 - 10:37 am: |
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I'm no expert but...how big is the space? Spray foam? not sure of its sound absorbing properties...if it solidifies... I'd say close to none. So that be a no. Use mineral fibre, but if your on a budget, R-30 insulation (face towards the sound) the joists under dining room, cover with some Microsuede Fabric material and use these for drop tiles: http://www.atsacoustics.com/acoustic-ceiling-panel-24x24.html You could do something similar for the walls and may want to do some type of floating floor over the slab I would not carpet everything. The control room window/wall..., make it thick, 2 walls 4" apart for some dead space in between. Lots od ideas on the net.
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Chauly
| Posted on Tuesday, November 26, 2013 - 11:16 am: |
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I built a studio for the college radio station that I worked for that ended up completely sound-proof, both from without and within. The trick was de-coupling the walls, ceiling, and floor from the rest of the building, supporting the floor from the solid ground on concrete piers, using flexible urethane foam in any gaps (not compressed), and having no physical connection between the ceiling and the floor above. Fiberglass insulation took care of higher frequency noises. The window was two 1/4" plate glass (store window) panes set in their own frames and supports at an angle to each other (about 10 degrees) to minimize transmission through the glass. In that room, no one outside could hear you scream... And you could hear no one dancing upstairs! |
Xdigitalx
| Posted on Tuesday, November 26, 2013 - 11:27 am: |
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Many years ago rented a room from some folks, my bedroom was 10x7 and also my 8trk recording studio...I used my mattress and box spring wedged vertically into the corner of the room to make a vocal booth, blankets over the top. sm57 with hanger bent square and a stocking over it for a pop screen. I was young, it was pathetic. But very fun! |
Chauly
| Posted on Tuesday, November 26, 2013 - 11:43 am: |
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I've been partial to a Telefunken U47... (with leather...:-) |
Ourdee
| Posted on Tuesday, November 26, 2013 - 03:10 pm: |
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I remember building a bathroom wall next to a quiet public room. We turned the 2x4 studs sideways, one on the inside wall and one for the outside wall, 16 inches on center with fiberglass insulation. Try to keep the plumbing out of that wall. |
Ourdee
| Posted on Tuesday, November 26, 2013 - 03:14 pm: |
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Joe, What headphones do you like for sound work? |
Fahren
| Posted on Tuesday, November 26, 2013 - 05:14 pm: |
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Roxul is the brand of mineral wool insulation to use, as noted above. Do not put electrical outlets back to back, or even in the same bay. De-coupling is the real answer, also as noted above. Do you have the head room and the extra floor space to build a room within the room? Having different thicknesses/densities of finish on both sides of a wall also helps dampen harmonic vibration transfer: single layer on one side, maybe sheetrock over plywood on the other. Having a 1 square inch hole or gap in a wall or floor/ceiling is the acoustic equivalent of having no separation between spaces at all! Seal EVERYTHING! |
Ferris_von_bueller
| Posted on Tuesday, November 26, 2013 - 06:58 pm: |
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I participated in the building of a studio at Lockheed Martin and as has been previously stated "decoupling" - having the walls and ceiling "float" is the key to soundproofing. I used the methods I observed on that job to soundproof a room in my house. FYI, those decoupling clips used to isolate the sheetrock from the wall/ceiling are pricey. There are plenty of good resources on the internet that can walk you through the process. |
Leftcoastal
| Posted on Tuesday, November 26, 2013 - 07:43 pm: |
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Worked on a couple of them - one for Beck we converted his pool house, which was basically an open fronted building over his garage. Double walls everywhere. That means 2 separate walls which are NOT touching or tied together. So, that ended up with about a 10" thick structure. Drywalled double layer each side - inside of room and outside, not between. Offset the studs. A double window with 2 glass panels, but not parallel to each other, we made one vertical and the other sloped out at top. THICK glass. The wall had 2 doors, one on inside wall, other outside wall, like an airlock, both sealed with special strips on rabbeted doors and on door stops. That was the recording booth area. He also did a sound deadening treatment to the garage below, which added additional framed walls just inside the block walls and garage doors. The dry wallers used a special drywall sheet that has a metal core. Had to cut it with a grinder. Bring lots of money for that one. When done, him and his band would be in the garage, rehearsing, and standing outside in the drive, is sounded like maybe someone was playing a radio a couple houses over. Go inside and your head implodes - LOUD!! |
S1owner
| Posted on Tuesday, November 26, 2013 - 07:52 pm: |
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Been building practice spaces for 30 years the key thing in any sound proofing is a break so its like having two walls with insulation between so the sound can not vibrate through the wall board into the studs and through the house the rest of your house will act as a reverb chamber so seperation is key |
Aesquire
| Posted on Sunday, January 12, 2014 - 08:25 pm: |
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Wondering how the project is coming. |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Thursday, January 16, 2014 - 11:29 pm: |
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on hold. Have a duplex in renovation. That's the priority...so I can start getting some income. Then...I may have time for the fun projects again |
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