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D_adams
| Posted on Wednesday, August 07, 2013 - 03:18 pm: |
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After seeing a couple too many high temp powder coat jobs go south, I'm looking into doing ceramic instead. I just don't seem able to count on the guy doing the coating currently. I'm a little disappointed since the first few were just fine, I've had it on my 1125 for 1.5 yrs now with no issues. I don't know what they've changed, but I am tired of dealing with problems. I hate having to tell a customer "yeah, send it back, I'll get it fixed" as it doesn't look good on my part even though I didn't do that part of the work. Anywho, if any of you have done ceramic coatings, what's the advice you care to give out? Gun type, tip, pressures, prep work, etc? I'm not looking to spend $600 on a professional gun, I just want to give it a go and see how it turns out on my personal bike first, so keeping it under $200 for start up costs would be ideal. I ordered Cerakote's jet black exhaust coating, along with some other colors I want to play with. I missed the gun they had advertised on their site when I placed the order for the ceramic, so if there's something better out there for the same price, I'd be interested. I have access to grit blasters (silica and plastic media) as well as normal cleaners (acetone, MEK or whatever) like everyone else. Suggestions, comments, help? |
99savage
| Posted on Wednesday, August 07, 2013 - 05:29 pm: |
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No coating is better than the surface prep. Unless the substrate is about NACE 10 the ceramic will fall off as fast as any other coating. Silica or plastic media aren't "grit" - Only grit is "grit" |
D_adams
| Posted on Wednesday, August 07, 2013 - 06:22 pm: |
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So basically, bead blasted, solvent cleaned and dried is sufficient? I say grit blast to indicate it would be blasted in a cabinet, I have fairly fine grained silica and plastic media available. |
Hammer71
| Posted on Thursday, August 08, 2013 - 11:13 am: |
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I do it in my powder shop and am certified by NIC industries for ceramic. A decent detail gun with a 6 to 8 mm tip will give best results. As for prep. Degrease, wash and dry then if possible heat it to get any oils out of the metal. Blast with aluminum oxide ( no glass bead) as it gets stuck in the metal. Blow off with compressed air and then shoot in a medium wet coat. No solvents at all after blasting I find the oven cure to be a bit better than air dry as it's ready to go once completed. Hit me up if you need any more info |
Skinstains
| Posted on Wednesday, August 14, 2013 - 10:27 pm: |
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There's a guy I used to use in NJ. I won't bad mouth his bidnus here but I will tell you that if you use a powdercoat/ceramic shop that has a three letter name with no vowels in N.J. you'll be sorry... |
D_adams
| Posted on Thursday, August 15, 2013 - 06:08 pm: |
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Looks like it turned out ok at this point. Still needs stress/durability/heat testing.
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Cyclonedon
| Posted on Friday, August 16, 2013 - 12:39 am: |
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I can't speak from experience but I hear Jet Hot does some nice exhaust coatings. If I ever get my headers coated, that is who I will use. |
Mnrider
| Posted on Friday, August 16, 2013 - 08:46 pm: |
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Looks good I should send you my Uly muffler this winter. Can you pm me with a price? Oh yea my muffler is not rusty just some paint coming off. (Message edited by mnrider on August 16, 2013) |
Hammer71
| Posted on Friday, August 16, 2013 - 11:06 pm: |
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Looks like an air cure, if it is you still have to heat cycle it. Install it and let it get HOT. If the mil thickness is correct you wont have any issues with it. For future reference, video an uncoated system and record the temp, then do one of the completed system as it will help people understand the benefits. Also if you have the satin black and titanium colors stick with those as they hold their color much better than the others. Cydon, find someone close to you that will do Cerekote as its much better than any of the Jethot products. |
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