G oog le BadWeB | Login/out | Topics | Search | Custodians | Register | Edit Profile


Buell Forum » Quick Board » Archive through September 05, 2013 » Ceramic coating « Previous Next »

Author Message
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

D_adams
Posted on Wednesday, August 07, 2013 - 03:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

After seeing a couple too many high temp powder coat jobs go south, I'm looking into doing ceramic instead. I just don't seem able to count on the guy doing the coating currently. I'm a little disappointed since the first few were just fine, I've had it on my 1125 for 1.5 yrs now with no issues. I don't know what they've changed, but I am tired of dealing with problems. I hate having to tell a customer "yeah, send it back, I'll get it fixed" as it doesn't look good on my part even though I didn't do that part of the work.

Anywho, if any of you have done ceramic coatings, what's the advice you care to give out? Gun type, tip, pressures, prep work, etc? I'm not looking to spend $600 on a professional gun, I just want to give it a go and see how it turns out on my personal bike first, so keeping it under $200 for start up costs would be ideal. I ordered Cerakote's jet black exhaust coating, along with some other colors I want to play with. I missed the gun they had advertised on their site when I placed the order for the ceramic, so if there's something better out there for the same price, I'd be interested.

I have access to grit blasters (silica and plastic media) as well as normal cleaners (acetone, MEK or whatever) like everyone else.

Suggestions, comments, help?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

99savage
Posted on Wednesday, August 07, 2013 - 05:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

No coating is better than the surface prep.

Unless the substrate is about NACE 10 the ceramic will fall off as fast as any other coating.

Silica or plastic media aren't "grit" - Only grit is "grit"
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

D_adams
Posted on Wednesday, August 07, 2013 - 06:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So basically, bead blasted, solvent cleaned and dried is sufficient? I say grit blast to indicate it would be blasted in a cabinet, I have fairly fine grained silica and plastic media available.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Hammer71
Posted on Thursday, August 08, 2013 - 11:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I do it in my powder shop and am certified by NIC industries for ceramic. A decent detail gun with a 6 to 8 mm tip will give best results. As for prep. Degrease, wash and dry then if possible heat it to get any oils out of the metal. Blast with aluminum oxide ( no glass bead) as it gets stuck in the metal. Blow off with compressed air and then shoot in a medium wet coat. No solvents at all after blasting I find the oven cure to be a bit better than air dry as it's ready to go once completed. Hit me up if you need any more info
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Skinstains
Posted on Wednesday, August 14, 2013 - 10:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

There's a guy I used to use in NJ. I won't bad mouth his bidnus here but I will tell you that if you use a powdercoat/ceramic shop that has a three letter name with no vowels in N.J. you'll be sorry...
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

D_adams
Posted on Thursday, August 15, 2013 - 06:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Looks like it turned out ok at this point. Still needs stress/durability/heat testing.







Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Cyclonedon
Posted on Friday, August 16, 2013 - 12:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I can't speak from experience but I hear Jet Hot does some nice exhaust coatings. If I ever get my headers coated, that is who I will use.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Mnrider
Posted on Friday, August 16, 2013 - 08:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Looks good I should send you my Uly muffler this winter.
Can you pm me with a price?
Oh yea my muffler is not rusty just some paint coming off.

(Message edited by mnrider on August 16, 2013)
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Hammer71
Posted on Friday, August 16, 2013 - 11:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Looks like an air cure, if it is you still have to heat cycle it. Install it and let it get HOT. If the mil thickness is correct you wont have any issues with it. For future reference, video an uncoated system and record the temp, then do one of the completed system as it will help people understand the benefits. Also if you have the satin black and titanium colors stick with those as they hold their color much better than the others.

Cydon, find someone close to you that will do Cerekote as its much better than any of the Jethot products.
« Previous Next »

Add Your Message Here
Post:
Bold text Italics Underline Create a hyperlink Insert a clipart image

Username: Posting Information:
This is a public posting area. Enter your username and password if you have an account. Otherwise, enter your full name as your username and leave the password blank. Your e-mail address is optional.
Password:
E-mail:
Options: Post as "Anonymous" (Valid reason required. Abusers will be exposed. If unsure, ask.)
Enable HTML code in message
Automatically activate URLs in message
Action:

Topics | Last Day | Tree View | Search | User List | Help/Instructions | Rules | Program Credits Administration