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Kruella
Posted on Wednesday, July 31, 2013 - 02:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

i went on a short journey all was ok, until i stopped at a service station it seemed the bike was hard to manoeuvre i looked at the rear brake and the caliper was in the wrong place!! the bolt had jumped out of the swinging arm??? how did this happen? got to figure out why before i put it back.
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Reepicheep
Posted on Wednesday, July 31, 2013 - 03:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The bolt can't jump out of the swingarm, it had to have:

1) vibrated loose
2) Torn out the swingarm threads
3) Not been properly reinstalled after being removed.

And really 1 and 2 are case 3 anyway. If the torque specs and thread locking specs are followed in re-install, it won't vibrate out and it won't tear out the swingarm threads.

Did the steel bolt still have aluminum packing its threads? Will it thread back into the swingarm?
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Buellish
Posted on Wednesday, July 31, 2013 - 04:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)



(Message edited by buellish on July 31, 2013)
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Mr_grumpy
Posted on Wednesday, July 31, 2013 - 05:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I see you're in N Wales.
I'd recommend you go & see Maz at "The Emporium" in Manchester.
Google him or look on ukbeg.com
Best of luck.
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Sifo
Posted on Thursday, August 01, 2013 - 12:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If the torque specs and thread locking specs are followed in re-install, it won't vibrate out and it won't tear out the swingarm threads.

I did tear the threads out of my front caliper yesterday while following the torque specs. It does happen. Once properly torqued, it should stay put however.

As for the OP... Time to see if it will thread back in and torque down. If not, it's time for thread inserts. Pretty easy job.
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Aesquire
Posted on Wednesday, August 07, 2013 - 08:34 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Took my Cyclone in for inspection.

Tires too bald. Ok, Ordered new tires.

Cost a bundle to get tires put on? Ok, I'm working 50+ hours a week, don't have a tire changer, ( or the patience at the moment to do it with spoons... ) so, go ahead. ( decisions like this always bite me )

Guy at Bike shop ( name withheld for legal reasons ) tells me to "be careful" with front brakes, since the new pads ( !!!???) might be grabby.

At this point I'm cursing my cell phone, which decided to go to emergency calls only and doesn't have any visible tells for that until I try and make a call, and it says, "No". ( so no one could call me for days )

Ok, If I needed pads, and I'm out of touch, I guess I'll accept that the shop put pads on.....

Hmm, brakes seem much wimpy compared to last week, must have to break pads in.

20 miles later, I'm still nervous about the fresh tires, but it seems Dunlop has a new fast disappearing mold release compound, and I'm gaining confidence.... and I get a clunking noise & vibration.

Oh, crap, I think, Front isolator? cracked frame? alien virus?

Get home in the dark, next morning a bud comes over in his new Yamaha 1100 ( new to him ) and visual inspection shows no front caliper bolts, and a front caliper just hanging around yet still sliding on the rotor...

Curses, thanks to the Gods ( and Erik ) that I have a quirky bike that makes it hard to get the caliper off at all, ( so it, am I am still here ) a few bucks for replacement bolts from the dealer and I'm back on the road.

Very Pissed, but back on the road.

Massive apologies from the chopper shop that messed up, and a guess on my part that they A: didn't use Loctite, and B: didn't torque the bolts.

I did both, and it turns out that German Torque ( Gudentite ) is just about 2 lbs under spec.
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Spike240sx
Posted on Wednesday, August 07, 2013 - 05:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well that sucks. But first off,

Properly torque and sequenced caliper bolts dont back out. No need for loctite.

Second, new pads on old rotors need to bed in before you have %100 braking ability. Not the other way around

Third, Mold release compounds have gotten a lot better and disappear very fast.

Third, I would never go back to that shop.

Glad you got it figured out. I have been seeing and hearing about crap like this way too much lately.

Ok, rant over!

Buell on!
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Hootowl
Posted on Wednesday, August 07, 2013 - 06:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Needed or not, I always use blue loctite on everything on my tubers, except the well nuts. Well, OK, I did that once, but I don't want to talk about it.
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