| Author | Message | ||
     86129squids |
OK, got a time-sensitive (kinda) project: Is there a way to "rejuvenate" the gasket seal on an old freezer? I bought an old Gibson upright freezer off of CL a few months back for $30- it has done OK but not quite, keeping the temperature about 5 degrees (should be 0 to -10)- the gasket is not 100% keeping the seal, as it allows just enough air in to bring condensation and progressively more ice buildup. I'd like to call in my fixit guy, but he can't do anything about replacing the gasket until he has a model #, which I've not been able to definitively produce. There are 2 spots on the back frame where a number is stamped, but that's all, along with another longer # stamped once. Neither can be determined to be model or serial, there's only the numbers themselves. There once was a sticker/badge in the door, long since rendered illegible. The # stamped twice is 683233R1; the longer # stamped once is 0871452231. My web search to ID this thing failed... so, my only "fix" is Vaseline on the gasket. This obviously aint the solution. Anyone here on BW have experience with freezer repair, or ideas to make the old gasket "new" again? Thanks in advance for any help! (Message edited by 86129squids on April 20, 2013) | ||
| Scottorious |
Just did some searches and didn't find much. Freezer gaskets that i did find where near 100 dollars for Gibson freezers. I couldn't find any good fixes except replacement. | ||
| 86129squids |
Yeah- thought I had a bargain at that price, and I did- almost. If I can find a way to bring back some pliability and softness to the old gasket, that may do the trick. Guess I should stop by my auto parts place and look around, maybe Homey Depot. | ||
| Andersonhdj |
Here's a dodge that we have used before but not always guaranteed to work everytime! Warm up the gasket with a hairdryer or paintstripper gun - carefully, of course! It restores some of the shape lost over the years,from being compressed all the time while the door is closed. As i said, does'nt always work but some times one gets lucky! | ||
| Sifo |
If you can get the model number and get a new gasket, it's an easy DIY. As a last ditch effort if you can't get a new gasket, how about using a mold release (thin smear of Vaseline would work) on the mating surface, then a skim of kitchen & bath silicone sealant on the old gasket. Clean and degrease it first of course. Worst case is that you wind up having to replace the gasket. | ||
| Teeps |
If the seal is hollow, you could, try inserting rubber tubing of correct diameter inside the cavity. Where the seal is collapsed. | ||
| Andersonhdj |
If it's a hollow seal, the hairdryer trick almost always works, have used it a few times with top lid deepfreezers with good success. | ||
| 86129squids |
Just got off the phone with my auto parts place, guy I spoke with said to try WD40, let it soak into the gasket... I may try that along with the hairdryer trick. Thanks everyone for the advice so far- got this thing defrosting, so now's the time to implement some kind of redneck fixit idea! | ||
| Mr_grumpy |
Gibson is an Electrolux product so there's a fair chance that there's some parts crossover/compatability with other marques from the same stable. Something I've done in similar situations in the past is take pics with a phone or digicam & precise measurements, then go compare with current models in a store or whatever. | ||
| Sleez |
i would recommend using silicone lube versus vaseline, or anything with petroleum products, as they break down rubber. in my previous life, in the fancy toilet world, vaseline is a big "no no" on rubber gaskets/seals, we only used silicone based products, Superlube is a brand that is readily available. | ||
| Sifo |
Interesting point about petroleum products. WD-40 would be in that category too. I would thing the seal is likely vinyl though. Use your best judgement! | ||
| Andersonhdj |
I would'nt use WD40 here, better a food grade Silicone lube. I would use the hairdryer first then apply some lube, not the other way round, tho with a silicone lube it'll likely not be an issue. We use Silicone lube on Autoclave seals in our Pharmaceutical manufacturing plant at 122 Deg Celcius with no issues. | ||
| Badlionsfan |
use a ratchet strap to pull the door closed tight til you find a permanent solution. | ||
| 86129squids |
 Badlions, things aren't quite that bad. So far, I've soaked it with WD40 twice, about to hairdry it. This seal is old and stiff enough that I'm not worried about it breaking down- it's completely intact, just a little too stiff. I'll be standing by to head to the auto parts store for some silicone smegma as needed. Thanks for the info, good buddies! | ||
| Ourdee |
A Buell shipping ratchet strap of course. | ||
| Johnnylunchbox |
How about one of those ratchet type carpentry clamps? It'll take a fraction of a second to get on and off. Just a thought. | ||
| Mr_grumpy |
How about just leaning your bike against it? | ||
| 86129squids |
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| Ratbuell |
Or you could make guests wonder what you keep in it...put a hasp and padlock on it to keep it tightly shut. Tell em its where you keep the bodies, to keep the smell down. | ||
| Just_ziptab |
I'd try a "gasket booster". Lay a bead of RTV silicone sealer on the gasket. Cover it with strips of Saran wrap. Gently close lid and let it cure. Trim off excess Saran wrap..... should be good to go with a perfect formed seal. | ||
| 86129squids |
Zip- I may try that route, after the defrost and re-start, it's still letting in just enough outside air to bring in condensation. Dammit. Keep the ideas coming... | ||
| Mr_grumpy |
Is the seal stuck on or clipped on? What I'm getting at is can you take the seal off & turn it 180° ? Also, does it have a reversible door? Many do you just have to transpose the hinges. Does the Freezer have a positive action catch on it or does it rely on the magnetic strip in the seal? If its the latter it may have lost its force. Have you been down to your local recycling point? You might find a good seal on a unit somebody's chucked. even if it's not the right seal you may be able to strip it for the mag strips to slide into your seal. | ||
| 86129squids |
The main prob is that the seal has just gotten too stiff over time. It does its job about 95% fine, just the slightest bit off to allow the condensation inside. Overall the unit works well, positive suction when opened, and about 5 degrees above zero. I kinda like the old thing, just hoping to hash out this critical detail ASAP. Once the garden gets going, I'm gonna have to have a 100% good freezer. | ||
| Mr_grumpy |
If you're going to be freezing fruit & veggies you need it colder than that. 5°F is ok for keeping pre-frozen stuff, but for home freezing you need to be down to at least -5 preferably -15 so that it freezes as quickly as possible & that the unit can diffuse the calories extracted from what you're freezing. 0 to 5 will do the job, but it will take longer & the unit will have to run harder for longer, not ideal for an old model. I'm not an expert on home freezing but I started life as an apprentice on Thermo-King reefer units & later driving them. What you don't want to happen is that you rely on one old unit which craps out on you the hottest time of the year when you're away for a long weekend. I'd say fine to keep as a 2nd line storage. Hate being a downer, there's nothing I like better than resurrecting old stuff myself. | ||
| 86129squids |
Thanks Grumps- the wisest thing I could do is get back in the hunt for another unit, then sell this one for $75. SOB it. | ||
| Mr_grumpy |
Alternatively , as I said keep it for storage, put an over-centre catch on it to keep it closed, & just buy a small efficient one for doing the actual freezing. Of course long term, you'll be cheaper buying a large new AA rated unit as it's compressor will be way more efficient. Trouble is white goods aren't built to last these days, only to get past the extended warranty period. It's a PIA I agree, nothing lasts like it used to...blahblah...back in my day...blahblah... even nostalgia's not what it used to be. | ||
| Panhead_dan |
OK this has gone on long enough. Open the freezer and clean the seal and the surface it seals against. Coat the surface it seals against with Crisco or lard. Using a caulking gun and 100% silicone sealant, run a generous but neat bead all the way around the seal and close the door for 24 hours. Open the door and clean off the Crisco. You might even find silicone in a color that will match (sorta). disclaimer; If you are not confident in using the silicone then disregard this post. If your silicone gets on the sealing surface where there is no Crisco, your freezer will not open again. (Message edited by panhead_dan on April 24, 2013) | ||
| Mr_grumpy |
Scuse my higgerance, what's Crisco? | ||
| Panhead_dan |
It's 'Murican for semi solid vegetable based lard like cooking grease commonly used for deep frying food | ||
| Mr_grumpy |
Ta, I'm enlightened. | ||
| 86129squids |
  Dan, dangit but that's actually the best idea yet- the original seal is plenty stiff enough to be a template/frame for some fresh silicone, which I've got plenty of in the shed. I'll see about working that one. Of course, the whole thing has had 3 WD40 soakings, so I'll have to counteract that to be sure the new silicone sets up... Oh well. The joys of redneck engineering, eh? | ||
| Panhead_dan |
Redneck engineering is what I'm all about brother. I have used this recipe on a couple of other things and it worked well. Good luck and if you do it, please post results. |
