| Author | Message | ||
     6gears |
Nice truck Froggy....but.. Removing the front driveshaft will do NOTHING to increase mileage. When you shift to 2wd the front driveshaft stops spinning. As does the front ring and pinion. The front half shafts will always turn with the front wheels. You can't take them out because they sorta hold the front wheel bearings together. As for the other stuff, Line-x for sure and I like the nicer soft covers that roll up and the bars are sown into the cover. All you do is pop the rear latch and roll the whole cover up. They are about the best for security, loss of bed space and ease of full bed use. | ||
| Ratbuell |
It depends on the 4x4 system. My jeeps...the transfer case "turns off" the front driveshaft. My Ram 2500...the 4x4 engages/disengages on the AXLE as well as the transfer case. Some trucks have lock-in, lock-out hubs. Depending on what system is in the truck...removing the front driveshaft might actually reduce parasitic drag. I'll check my ramp, but I have a folding aluminum ramp that's awesome. Just can't remember the name offhand. Line-X. Definitely. I've had my Wrangler's interior (yes...) Line-X'd for nearly 10 years now with no issues. For a truck bed, you'll get great traction, good looks, and bulletproof durability. A soft tonneau is only really good for visual security - out of sight, out of mind. If you want REAL security, they make clamshell lockers that can tip up and remove easily to load a bike. I'm on the fence about a cover for MPG - my 2001 Ram 2500 diesel, 6 speed stick, 4x4, 215,000 miles...gave me 22mpg driving to FL for Christmas. With an open bed. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Oh, I also run 10 ply tires on the diesel, at 80psi, highway tread. On the '05 that she took, it had highway tires on it stock. When they wore out, I put BFG All-Terrain's on it..and lost 3mpg. Get some highway tires like Michelin LTX's - great tread life, good fuel economy, great load capacity. Keep the knobbies on some cheap steel wheels, next to the driveshaft in the garage, for white-stuff weather. | ||
| 6gears |
GM...Front diffs all work the same. Front shaft does not turn and they don't have lock-outs. I would imagine that truck has 4:10 gears but I really don't know. I would not worry about the mileage until it has 15k on it. Gotta let everything seat in for the long haul. | ||
| Madduck |
here is the site for the ramp i've been using http://www.discountramps.com/motorcycle-hitch-ramp .htm always worked and is very well made. | ||
| Blake |
One like this has been serving me well for years. | ||
| Blake |
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200 318227_200318227?cm_ven=natural&cm_cat=netconcepts &cm_pla=&cm_ite= | ||
| Mr_grumpy |
Froggy you might get some info here. http://coloradofans.com/ | ||
| Gschuette |
My Colorado 3.5 4x4 5spd Z71 just rolled over 100k miles and hasn't had any issues in my 9 years of ownership. Nice truck, and removing the shaft won't do anything except make you a bona fide dork. | ||
| Kenm123t |
GS lol Knew that a long time ago | ||
| Toona |
Froggy, Get the BedRug! I've had one in my last 2 trucks and LOVE them, especially when having to crawl up in the bed on my hands and knees. Get the version that covers the bedsides as well as the floor and tailgate. I've hauled my Buell on it with no problems. it's NOT slick in the wet, pressure washes clean and will be in every truck I own from now on. They're selling for $400 on ebay for your truck. I also have the TonnoPro-Trifold on my GMC. Easy off/on, keeps the water out of the bed, quiet. I added the factory plastic bed caps, so I don't have to worry about the cover rubbing off the paint. These covers are $279 on eBay. | ||
| Toona |
bed-rug for $323. bed-rail-protectors-6-long-box for $112 | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
I was going to link the ramp I bought from hope depot a few years ago but they don't list it anymore. It is made of aluminum and can be separated to two narrow ramps for ATVs. Each side has its own strap so it doesn't fall off the truck. VERY IMPORTANT The only things I have not been able to load on my truck so far: Lawn tractor=scrapes mower deck and loses traction My friend's ironhead choppa=too low/long had to use many hands to pick it up over the high spot. | ||
| Ulyranger |
I would highly recommend arch shaped ramps, higher strength and much easier load. By eliminating the big break over angle at the top of the ramp it lessens the chance ramming into the front of the truck bed. They also accommodate things such as mowers with decks hanging down, or even some bikes with low fairings and such. I personally like solid, one piece ramps with enough length to create a decent climb angle. Slightly harder to carry around with you, but the simpler and safer you can make the load/unload operation you will benefit in the end. I don't know about that ramp that hinges in the middle.....laterally no less. Brace under the top part not withstanding, that just looks wrong where I come from.  The drive shaft thing? I don't even know where to start......  | ||
| Etennuly |
Hey Froggy. I would not feel bad at 20 MPG with my pick up truck. With the changes I have made so far it is up from 5.6 on propane to right around 9 on gasoline. I am shooting for 12. $140 gets me about 400 miles. Good thing I don't have anywhere to go with it!  | ||
| Crackhead |
Your girlfriend should be ok pulling a trailer. It took some convincing for my wife to try but can now. I have a few suggestions though. 1. If the trailer has a built in ramp, remove it. The ramp acts like a sail, increasing the wind resistance and make the trailer sway when ever you get a cross wind or a truck passes. Use the truck ramps instead 2. Add electronic trailer brakes with a proportional/inertia controller. It will dramatically reduce your stopping distances. 3. Add a pair of kick down stabilizers to the back so you can load/unload with out the trailer attached to the truck. 4. You will prefer to have the bikes in the trailer rather then raising the trucks center of gravity. | ||
| Froggy |
I already tested it by having my girlfriend put it in drive and going slow, it spins.
Yea that is my plan. It came stock with the BFG All Terrains, they did fantastic in the blizzard this weekend (I still haven't used 4wd), but I can just feel them sucking my wallet dry. I'm trying to find out the weight of the stock wheels, the tires are something like 48lbs each, if I can get some lighter weight aftermarket wheels that will be what I do with something like the Michelin LTX you mentioned. I'm half tempted to try some runflat Pirelli low rolling resistance large sedan tires, I just need to look into the load ratings more. Also, the 22MPG you got is flat out terrible for that truck, I know a guy who gets around 40MPG average on his.
You mean 4.10:1? No it has 3.73:1, with a Eaton G80 locker, standard on z71 models. There is an option for a 4.10, and the cheaper trucks have a 3.42:1, which depending on the cost I'll see about swapping in to lower my cruising revs.
That looks awesome, I'm going to do some more digging. It says it is discontinued, so I'll look elsewhere.
Yep I've been lurking there and 355nation, but the communities are not quite as good as the one here.
Well I already am a dork, and like I said before removing the shaft is proven to have nothing but upsides, it is dead weight.
Yep I think that I will do that. The Rhinoliner/Linex is overkill for my use, so I'll give the rug a try instead. I'm still debating on the covers, that Roll-X $850 is the one I want, but is out of my budget for a while. I'll probably get something cheap or home made for the short term.
Yea but 12 is about what that truck should be getting. My truck was rated for 24MPG highway, and I have not even made it close to that. On that same note, I've never seen BELOW the EPA ratings on anything I've ever driven before. The 3.4l Monte Carlo was good for up to 38mpg, I've milked just under 95mpg out of a Prius, my Blast gives me 85 smiles per gallon when it ran, with my XB12 not far behind that at 75. I bought the truck expecting to ballpark 30, not 20.
I don't want her driving with a trailer, I don't even want myself driving with a trailer. The trailer will only come into play for when I need to haul more than just one bike or a similar large load. | ||
| Froggy |
Ratbuell, here is the guy that got 47MPG average (1645 miles on a single tank) in a Ram 2500 Diesel: http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/1-645-2- miles-one-tank-broke-official-22938.html | ||
| Skntpig |
You won't like the price of run flats. | ||
| 6gears |
LOL...I bet you could stop that driveshaft with your hand. I find it funny that you bought the LEAST fuel efficient compact truck that GM sells then commence the mods to make it more efficient. If you are that worried about economy there are LOTS of better choices out there. Such as the the 47MPG cummins. I never got the hyper-mile crap. It won't work for me, I USE my truck. I routinely haul 24k on the ball in the bed and am tickled to death with 10mpg doing it. If you really want to try and money is not an object you should swap in a 3.3 common rail cummins...should see 35+ all day. I have seen a couple of jeeps with 3.3s and they bump 40mpg if not pushed too hard. | ||
| Preybird1 |
Im running a supertaco supercharged at 8.5 psi and still get 25-23 mpg. Just depends on how much boosted accel i want. Also if i lock my rear diff my miles go down 4.5-6 mpg. I have never tested mpg while in 4x4 yet.    | ||
| Froggy |
Price difference between them and the standard tire of the same model is negligible, then I can ditch the fullsize spare.
Even if I could, it is still power being wasted.
No, I bought one right in the middle, with a rating of 24 MPG highway, getting the 4 cylinder model and the stick would of gained me a little more, but I wanted the extra oomph as they are a little underpowered as is, and I plan on using it to haul. If I step up to the V8, fuel economy goes down the tube even further.
Not really. The Colorado/Canyon has best in class fuel economy, even beating out the Silverado hybrid on the highway. http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/PowerSearch.do?acti on=PowerSearch&year1=2012&year2=2014&rdomsrp01=850 00_0&minmsrpsel=0&maxmsrpsel=0&cbmcpickupTrucks=Pi ckup+Trucks&cbdt4wd=4WD&cbcy3-5=3-5&cbcy6=6&cbcy8= 8&cbcy10-12=10-12&city=0&combined=0&highway=0&mpgT ype=0&minMPGSel=&maxMPGSel=&rowLimit=300&YearSel=2 012-2014&MakeSel=&MarClassSel=Pickup+Trucks&FuelTy peSel=&VehTypeSel=&TranySel=&DriveTypeSel=4WD&Cyli ndersSel=3-5%2C+6%2C+8%2C+10-12&MpgSel=000&sortBy= City&Units=&url=SearchServlet&opt=new&minmsrp=0&ma xmsrp=0&minmpg=0&maxmpg=0
It is a shame they don't offer a Diesel on the American Colorado, but you can get it on the foreign versions. The small price penalty would be worth the boost in fuel economy and day to day performance.
I never got why anyone would like wasting gas and spending more money than they have to.
That is wrong, it works for everybody, regardless of what you drive and what it is being used for.
Yea and I bet that you could get to 15mpg (50% more fuel economy, 50% more cruising range, 50% less time at the pump, 50% less money spent) with some basic hypermiling techniques that cost nothing.
Yea that would be awesome, but way too impractical for me. It would be a cool project swap if I picked up something that didn't run, but I got enough vehicles to deal with as is!
That looks badass! | ||
| Mr_grumpy |
Why would you ditch the spare? Run flat is ok if your tyre gets a nail through the tread, but if there's sidewall or rim damage, you're stuffed! My Sis-in-law has a Mercedes C200cdi wagon, the thing has a bottle of gloop & a compressor instead of a spare. Which did her no good at all at 5 am one christmas morning when the sidewall split as we were convoying home from a family party. I'd not be riding anywhere without a decent jack a spare & some tools, oh & spare fluids , & zip ties, bungy cord, baling wire, some odd bolts & nuts, a pair of overalls... Yes I cart some dead weight about but I don't spend long at the side of the road & neither do my friends & family. I realise that your truck is new & under warranty so you don't need most of that, but a puncture isn't covered & I'd think that if you had a breakdown & got towed to a dealer with no front shaft they'd invalidate your warranty on the spot. Something I always do when modifying or buying a vehicle is calculate actual cost longterm. That's to say, if I spend X to replace or modify my current ride how long is it going to be to the point where if I'd not done it I'd have spent X in additional costs. For fuel economy on an equivalent new vehicle that has to be NEVER. Initial depreciation is so much that you'll have to keep the vehicle until it's run into the ground to recoup your costs. If you're a business user, it's a different kettle of fish as you can write off those costs against tax. From the digging I've done it looks like there's a conversion kit from Mile Marker to convert to manual hubs, seems to be on sale at JC Whitney. I'd go check with a good 4x4 specialist first though. | ||
| Guell |
so let me get this straight... you bought a colorado with the off road package and you now want to remove the front driveshaft? That makes zero sense. One day you will wish you had left that drive shaft on. Also, you want to swap rear ends on the truck? Why did you even buy this truck? Wouldnt it have been cheaper and easier to just wait for the one you wanted with the options you wanted? | ||
| Cowboy |
For Gods sake leave it alone-----supose you are going out and have to hit the shoulder for a short distance and wham you are stuck what a imbarssment to be stuck in a 4x4. Just top save .15 cents gas | ||
| Brinnutz |
So much fail Froggy... If you're seriously going to remove the shaft, why the hell didn't you just buy a two wheel drive? The shaft isn't going to save you shit, you still have the T-case and all other relating parts. It would be nil, along with most likely voiding your drive train warranty. Then, you're going to take the all terrain tires and replace them. So, you're going to spend more money to put on other tires with less rolling resistance to increase fuel efficiency. Please tell me where the cost savings is? Second, why did you buy a truck to worry about mileage? If you were worried about mileage you would have went with the older Tacoma's with the 4-banger that'll get 30mpg. Face it, you can't hyper mile a freaking 4x4 truck like you can a Prius. And by that I mean you won't be seeing 95mpg out of a truck. Welcome to owning a truck. (Message edited by brinnutz on February 12, 2013) | ||
| Guell |
yep, still have the transfer case, the front diff, the front axles etc. Oh and if you do swap the rear, which is a waste, then you might want to regear the front too incase you ever put the front driveshaft back in. It will be major lulz when you do get stuck. I would be really interested in seeing how much money these "mods" are going to cost you and how long it would take to get to the point of where your making a return on them. | ||
| Froggy |
I'll probably never need it. Hundreds of thousands of miles under my belt in the last 10 years on countless bikes, cars, trucks, etc, and I've only had one puncture. I'll deal with it when it arises.
Those situations are even more rare than a nail. Again I would deal with it as needed.
I do have some emergency/utility supplies in the underseat toolkit, but a jack and tire will be coming out.
Getting a tow usually is faster than dealing with a tire. My first hand experience with needing random tows for various reason has shown I lose about 20-30 minutes on a tow, vs having to change a tire will be a half hour minimum on a good day, and that assumes that a spare tire actually fixes the issue and it isn't battery/charging system/ or something else requiring parts. Where do you keep your spare tire on your tuber?
I'm already ahead with the fuel savings. Total amount invested to save fuel: $0. My calculated fuel savings this year if prices stick at $3.99: $1282 per year saved. If I can get it up to my goal of 30mpg, that would bring me to $2280 saved a year, or $11400 over a 5 year period. Again I have not done anything to the truck that cost me any money yet, the cheap mods are coming up.
Those sound like they may be my best option.
What makes zero sense is why GM made so made Z71s, and why you are forced to buy that to get the upper level trims. I didn't want that useless garbage, but it was take it or leave it.
Lol sure, 4wd is overrated as is. If you had a penny for every time you thought you needed 4wd but really didn't, you could buy a nice Ferrai. 4WD is great if you are going off road, but this truck will never go off road. On road 2WD is sufficient 99.999% of the time anyway, and for those 2 days a year I *might* need the extra traction, I can have the shaft reinstalled. I drove around during the blizzard last weekend without using the 4WD without issue.
The truck I want doesn't exist, so that would never happen. I am making due with the slim selection of available vehicles, it took me several weeks to find this one.
I will not be doing any off roading, so that will not be an issue. Also it is at least 15 cents in gas is per mile, and it adds up fast!
Just like having a gun, better to have it and not need it than to not have it and need it.
Cost savings is immediate. Swapping out the tires should save me about $600 per year in fuel, which is a little less than the cost of the tires, plus I can resell the stock tires if I don't plan on using them again (still debating).
I didn't buy a truck to worry about milage, I bought a truck for the utility, and the reason I didn't get a gigantic F-9000 like everyone else is because it is overkill and gets terrible fuel economy. Midsizers are more than enough for 90% of truck owners, while being cheaper to buy, run, maintain, easier to drive and park, and overall better for day to day use. It is a shame that nobody else sees that and nobody makes mid size trucks anymore.
I knew it wouldn't get 95mpg, that is physically impossible. I am just upset that the fuel economy is nowhere near as expected. How would you feel if your bike was only putting down 20hp to the wheel?
Yep I've been looking into that, I can find takeoff 3.43 gears for the rear cheap, I am still investigating my options for the front. I'm still not sure if that will be ideal till after I swap the wheels, people on the forums claim the motor gets too bogged down with the giant tires and tall gears.
I already am ahead  | ||
| 6gears |
The last few comments I will make on this... 10mpg towing that much weight is great! I hyper mile every time I hook up my gooseneck, it is the only way to make a truck last with that much weight. I seldom use the breaks, easy acceleration, etc. I also hope that when you get all done modding this truck you have the ECM reprogrammed to account for all the changes you have made so you can get some real data. Also, don't take for granted that every change you make on a brand new truck is helping the mileage. Your mileage will improve quite a bit in the first 5k miles as everything loosens up. Hope you don't have any issues with the truck cause you won't have any warranty also. | ||
| Xl1200r |
Frogman, I respect what you're going for, but some stuff might be a little overkill. For example, you're miff'd that you had to get a 4x4 Z71 to get the upper trim levels, which of course adds the weight of the 4x4 system, oversize tires, etc. But it also adds the weight of power windows and locks, automatic trans, and a whole host of other options. If it was all about the mileage, you wouldn't even want those higher trim level options. To me, it sounds like you should have bought a small wagon or hatchback and a trailer for when you need to haul a bike or two. Most cars will tow 1000 lbs, which a light trailer and 2 Buells would max out, but it's doable. I don't get the adversity to driving with a trailer - it's really not a big deal and makes things much easier to load/unload, which I'd argue is the bigger PITA when it comes to hauling a bike. |
