| Author | Message | ||
     Froggy |
Hello guys, I've been having an issue with my 1125R and I finally tracked down the culprit. My bike has been handling a little funny, getting progressively worse, now to the point where I don't feel safe on it. The bike would start to steer wrong and go where it wanted to when making low speed turns. My inital thoughts were wheel bearings, neck bearings, or brake related. As you may recall, I recently had the front bearings changed. They felt fine, stiffish but not as bad as the rears normally do, I figured since it was cheap enough to change at that point that I might as well. Wheel reinstalled after new bearings, it felt better, but still problematic. This was making me think neck bearings, which would be too involved for me so I would have to tow it to the shop for more proper troubleshooting and repair, so I held off on that. I went to move the bike yesterday, and I was almost unable to. I would push the bike, it would not budge like it was still in gear, but I couldn't even get that one or two inches of roll before hitting the stop. After some rocking it made a snap sound and started rolling with a lot of resistance, I'm assuming the brake pads had a death grip on the rotor. I decided to remove the entire front brake assembly (caliper and MC with lever), and sure enough the bike now rolls good as new. So the issue appears to be that my caliper is not releasing enough, and possibly my handling issue. The thing is now, I don't know the best way to resolve this. What would you guys recommend? The entire brake system is bone stock, including the original brake pads. I'm debating whether to bother swapping in one of my brake assemblies from another Buell, as I am going to be snowed in for the foreseeable future anyway, so maybe I can stay on top of this and fix it before the snow stops. | ||
| D_adams |
Clean or flush the brake system. I would take it apart and clean it myself, followed up with some RBF600 motel brake fluid. | ||
| D_adams |
And by taking it apart, I mean exactly that. Take the pistons out of the caliper completely, new seals, fresh fluid. | ||
| Froggy |
Yea I love the RBF600, I have that fluid in my CR. Disassembling the caliper might be above my skillset, I'll do some digging, maybe I'll just drop the brake assembly off at the dealer. | ||
| Doerman |
Might just want to start with a bleeding of the brake system. That's simple enough to do. If that does the trick, then the total dis-assembly won't be needed. | ||
| Akbuell |
If you have the skills to remove/install a front wheel, and remove /install the brake caliper, you have the skill to do a caliper rebuild. Take your time, work carefully, and above all else think surgical cleanliness. You basically take the two caliper halves apart, clean everything, reassemble w/new O rings, fill w/fluid, bleed, done. | ||
| Crackhead |
Is there any marks on the brake lines? With cars this happens when the fluid can not easily flow back and is typically from the rubber brake lines. | ||
| Teeps |
Here is what I recommend. Put the brakes back on. Pump the lever a few times to verify the brakes are applied. Then open the banjo fitting at the master cylinder. Does the caliper release? Yes: the problem is in the master cylinder or the lever is over adjusted causing the bypass port to stay closed. No: open the banjo fitting at the caliper. Does the brake release? Yes: the brake line is faulty. No: caliper is faulty. | ||
| Kevmean |
You say the brakes are standard ..... does this include the brake lever? ....... some aftermarket levers are incorrect and keep the small return port to the master cylinder closed | ||
| 99buellx1 |
Possible just dirty around the pistons? Simple step is to take the pads out and get crazy with the cleaner. | ||
| Xl1200r |
Wasn't this thing being kept outside? Might the rotor just have been a bit rusty? I don't see how it could have had a death grip when you went to move it and not when it put it there any other way. If you were able to remove the caliper, then then pistons were able to be pushed back in enough to get the pads off. I'm having a hard time seeing how a braking issue, aside from it not working entirely, would affect low speed turns on a bike with a single brake up front. If it were holding on that tight all the time, you would feel it and, more importantly, smell it. | ||
| Brumbear |
make sure the rotor isn't warped | ||
| Froggy |
The thing is, I learn best from watching others, I saw a few wheel/brake removals before doing it myself, then had help doing them at first, now I can do them solo. I've never seen a brake caliper disassembled, and I do not learn well from reading a book or looking at pictures. It may be an easy task for some, but for me I know it will be difficult.
There is some light rust on the rotor, but nothing major. I did ride it after getting the wheel back on, noticed it was still handling awful, went back home, and was able to garage it for a week or two before touching the caliper last night.
It was difficult, I ended up wiggling the caliper while on the rotor to try and push the pads in a bit.
It is still applying brake when I am not trying to be, like giving it gas coming out of a turn. The bike ends up fighting it.
It wasn't that tight till after I parked it, but it did have a grip on it before then.
I don't think it is, I don't have a rough spot where it only grabs there.
Yes I am aware of some members on here that have been hurt badly by that. My brakes are still 100% same parts the day I bought it new. | ||
| Brumbear |
If you want to stop by my shop I'd be glad to do it for ya we can grab some lunch try the Newark Dino I think it's open. I know it's a hell of a ride but the offer is there Frank. | ||
| Skntpig |
Sometimes just a good cleaning will help. If you take the caliper off the rotor and take the pads out you can push the pistons out just a little. You might find a ring of old brake dust and road grime there. Use soap and hot water or some simple green and hot water and a toothbrush to clean the piston/caliper. Make sure you rinse good with water. Lube piston and seal with some new brake fluid and put pads and caliper back on. If that doesn't do it, time for a rebuild. | ||
| Smoke |
the thing i found that helps the most is to push the pads all the way back before reinstalling the caliper to fork. torque the caliper bolts. next leave the wheel in the air and spin it as you pump the brakes until brakes stop wheel. release and spin. flush the brakes with new fluid! tim | ||
| Crackhead |
How does the brake line look? There is still a rubber line inside the SS brakes lines. And if there is any kinks or bent looking sections of line then the fluid will not want to flow back up to the MC because the return is low pressure. | ||
| Froggy |
Just an update, Brumbear cleaned and rebuilt the caliper today, and it is running Motul RBF 600 fluid. Most of the pistons were fine, but a few were sticking, and the pads had some light rust on them which we sanded off. My pads will need replacement soon, hopefully this will do this trick till they come in. I should have the caliper installed again tomorrow morning, so we shall see what happens. |
