| Author | Message | ||
     Mr_grumpy |
What problems Thumper? Let me guess, air suspension, emission control & electrical stuff mostly? I know they're not very well reputed in the US apart from the Def's but that tells you all you need to know right there. The basic simple models with a manual box are reliable as death & taxes but they got over complicated with all the crap for the US market in my opinion. Simple is good I reckon, but that's because I are. | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
I feel like a kid waiting for Christmas.... I didn't feel that way until a got a call to let me know it was being worked on... His Dragster project  'bout 600 ponies...  | ||
| Damnut |
Well a little more progress today. Got the fuel tank finished and fuel lines buttoned up. Fuel system DONE!! With that done I got the plenum torqued down and necessary vacuum lines connected. Starter bolted in place and most of the engine wiring is done. Next week I'm hoping to get the rest of the front suspension done and shifter installed. I ordered a Lokar 16" Midnight black shifter for this project. Should be here in a few days.   | ||
| Ratbuell |
Do the Rover's still use Lucas (Prince Of Darkness) electronics? GAH. Although, at 208k miles my Dodge 2500 diesel finally ate a front axle shaft (well...scarred it enough the oil seal won't seal anymore). And Mark? Strip the interior out of your Jeep while its apart for engine work. Take it to your local Line-X dealer. Mine did my YJ, firewall to tailgate...for $350. Carpet? I don't need no stinkin' carpet! | ||
| Mr_grumpy |
Oooooh a Gasser! I'm very jealous. | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
Hey Joe!... My Jeep is in Grantsville WV...bout 3 hours away from me.... and it hasn't had any carpet in it for almost as long as I've had it. I'm thinking I may put some Monster liner in the floor boards. They have a ton of colors but I would stick with white. | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
Oooooh a Gasser! I'm very jealous. I'm jealous of his ability to build such a thing.... I'm good at tear'n 'em up When I was VERY young, he took my cousin and I for a ride in a 1964ish Nova he had built... 327 with a 6 pack.... I think I saw Jesus that day! Just got a voice mail from my Dad. Crank is back in Head is done waiting on pistons.... and now he is putting a new cam in it.... OH BOY IS THIS GREAT!! | ||
| Etennuly |
I'm trying to keep up! I understand your excitement.  Did you look at trailers yet? | ||
| Fast1075 |
Did the cam have a worn off lobe? Flat tappet cams are no longer the norm in the automotive world. Catalyctic converters have eliminated many of the "good" oils high in anti friction compounds like zinc. You need to break the engine in using a straight weight conventional oil high in zinc. That will be some sort of racing oil these days. Years past, I used Castrol 30 weight HD oil with a can of G.M. EOS (engine oil supplement) to make the lifter bases and cam lobes happy. 4.0 engines do not tolerate poor oil choices...cam and lifter failure shortly after run-in is common. I have never had a problem personally, but I am absolutely anal retentive when it comes to initial start up and run-in of an engine. Prime the oiling system until oil comes freely through all 12 pushrods before cranking the motor. Have all systems ready including basic coolant levels. (it won't hurt a thing to have the crankcase overfilled a half quart or so since the cam lobes and lifter bases are splash lubricated. When the engine cranks, hold it at 2500-3000 rpm immediately and hold it there for a half hour. Idling will kill the cam and glaze the rings. Good luck, properly rebuilt and maintained, the engine will be good for a quarter million miles. | ||
| Kenm123t |
Fast What about Aero Shell avaiation oil Lycoming H2ADs in Cessna 172s would not make TBO till Aeroshell came up with additives since then its less of a problem. | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
Did you look at trailers yet? funny you should say that.... I saw one on the way home today. BUT!! I don't need to buy one. My friend Doug... (The harley rider at the WVBR that didn't go ditch diving) has 2. One is a toy hauler with a nice living space. The other is a open trailer with e brakes... so when the time comes, I have access to one. | ||
| Mr_grumpy |
It's funny but the only personal vehicles I've owned from new & had to run in have both been motorcycles. The first a 1977 Suzuki TS250M & the second my Super TT. I didn't cane either one during the break in period but I didn't mollycoddle them either. When it comes to trucks with big diesels in though the only way is heavy right boot & make it work hard. I remember 5 of us getting a batch of new tractors on the same day & the workshop manager preaching about how we had to follow the book or risk being sacked blahblah. Me & my mate Ian thrashed the nuts off ours from day 1, they both pulled like trains & never let us down, the other 3 couldn't live with us on the hills & were forever complaining in the workshop, one guy even moaned that we'd had ours "tweaked". I couldn't speak as to the longevity of the motors as we didn't keep them past 5 years in those days, but they were 14l Cummins 410hp so good to go a long way. | ||
| Fast1075 |
Ken, I have no experience with the Aero Shell. Another old favourite, however is Rotella T, although as I understand it, it has also been "reformulated". Mobil Delvac , if it is still original formula would be good. Valvoline makes a racing oil with a good additive package (but I would have to research it's "name"). The quality of the engine is entirely in the hands of the remanufacturer. (Ken, I am sure you can relate that statement to compressor remanufacturers). The selection of components and their fit up tells the story. Assuming the engine is properly fitted up, it is the all important first few minutes that determines how the engine will turn out. the crank, bearings and pistons/rings having been properly finished, require little in "break-in", and loading of the engine is required for proper break in, especially if a poor choice in cylinder preparation or ring materials is made. My race motors all had the same break-in. Three heat cycles during which the throttle is constantly blipped until the engine reached operating temperature, followed by complete cool down. One pass at full throttle followed by a complete cool down. With nitrous motors, I took that to three passes before opening the blue bottles. | ||
| Kenm123t |
We run Rotella T in all the Generators we service Those Run at Max Hp under load with no Intake cooling and we have had no engine failures. On regular Car motor oils we have sludge problems. | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
anybody have a belly up/tummy tuck on their TJ? I really don't want to do a body lift but I would like to get some more transfer case clearance | ||
| Etennuly |
Body lifts do nothing for ground clearance. How much ya wanting to go up? Therein is the grind. 31s will work pretty good with stock or 2" lift. When you go to 33s on a 2" lift it looks like stock ride height and it can rub. Raise it 3" more you will be about where 33s will take you, if you go higher than that it will look stupid with 'little' 33s and you will need 35's to fill the holes. Then you will need bigger axles and they will still rub the frame rails and another 5" lift will be a little short for them. It goes on.....  Oh and for every couple of inches of up street-ability goes down. So where do you want to go big boy?  This growth formula is working as it always does.  It can't be helped. Soon you will be looking at 38" tires, 3/4 ton axles, and a V8! This is so I told you so!!!!  | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
OK.... I shall explain... most belly up/tummy tucks require a 1" to 1 1/4" body lift so the tranny doesn't hit the tub. I don't want to go any higher but I would like more ground clearance. The transfer case skid hangs down 'bout 4 inches or so and I've have hit it pretty hard a few times... and...  | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
this....  -vs- this  | ||
| Etennuly |
Have we talked about drive shaft angles yet? You may need one of those angled out-put dudas for the rear of the transfer case and some 5 degree up angle shims for the rear axle if you do that. The front driveshaft is long enough it's angle is no big deal. When I put my V8 in I actually lowered my center crossmember/trans mount/skid plate 2" to angle the transm/transc down at the back to help compensate for a high suspension lift. The loss of 2" of ground clearance was not a problem with the addition of 4" of lift added at the stock suspension frame mounts. Then I added 3" of spring lift. That put my transfer case a total of 5" higher than stock. The wheel base is short enough that it is not a frequent problem. If it drags, just apply more power as needed!  | ||
| Thumper74 |
I don't think Wolf's Jeep can use shims. I think that he would need adjustable control arms and a SYE | ||
| Fast1075 |
That is correct Thumper. And control arms need to be very carefully selected. There are a ton of people building them, and they range from quite good to absolute junk. And the shocking thing is SOME of the more expensive brands are horrible. Stay away from open heim ends that will quickly loosen and get sloppy. You can adjust the rear angle with adjustable links to help (to a degree) the driveshaft angles. The front can also be adjusted to a degree, but if you go to far, you get poor caster angles and the dreaded "Death Wobble". Clearance. The video that shows the tiger stripe rig getting stuck the instant it hit the water trench (I hesitate calling that "mud") was from the rear diff grounding because the tires were in ruts. The only way around that particular little problem is tall tires, or get very familiar with the winch. Wider tires can help to a degree if the ruts are narrow from skinny tires. If the tire is wide and has side lugs, it can get some "side bite". | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
I've been looking and reading a good bit of Stu Olson's Off Road.... the amount of info can be overwhelming who's control arms would you suggest? | ||
| Fast1075 |
Clayton Off Road and JKS come to mind. Both use bonded rubber bushings that work well on street oriented rigs. | ||
| Etennuly |
Please pardon my shims!  I live in the land of leaf springs! Ah jus can't hep meh self! I forgot he has coils on bars. Either way the same principal will apply to drive shaft angles. Drive shafts and yokes will be next.  But who knows, the newer style(post leaf springs) may hold up better to the changes in angle and the higher load force from the bigger tires and more power. The 'cough' older Jeeps that I have had with the Dana 30 or 35 and the AMC 20 rears have all had those cheap little stamped straps with little 3/16" bolts that would twist off at the first sign of torque. I built my own drive shafts out of 2" square 3/16 wall tubing, one end is 2" outside, the other is 2" inside. I used the stock shaft ends with a solid core U joint and drilled the yokes for 1/4" grade 8 bolts. I made my own caps from an old pinion yoke. These 'hardened' parts then proceeded to break the pinion shaft off in the AMC 20. This new referb has me on heavy duty half ton Chevy 12 bolt stuff that should hold up easily to my light weight Jeep. Square tubing has a weld seam on one of the inside walls that can be handled by grinding a matching grove on the tube that will slide in it. Grease'm up good and they are way tougher than what ever yokes ends, sliders, and U joints you will have. If you do bend one they are cheap and easy to make. They can be made to fit front or rear with your telescopic slide as deep as you want it, so there is less spare stuff to carry.  (Disclaimer, not meant for high speed highway use). | ||
| Thumper74 |
Wolf, I would consider finding adjustable control arms minus the heim joints (use rubber bushings). If you can't find them, I bet a chassis fab/circle track shop in the area will set you up... | ||
| Mr_grumpy |
I want one of these for offroading, it's not all wheel drive, but 6x8 & with the big hook platform to use as a balance or pusher it'll go near enough anywhere. http://www.mod-sales.com/direct/vehicle/related/18 438/Leyland_Daf_8x6.htm | ||
| Etennuly |
Hey Grump, a friend of mine drove one of those for a couple of years in Iraq. He said that when you have a tank that is stuck in soft sand and you bury one of these in soft sand in front of the tank it can take a lot of people, a long day of work, two tanks, whole bunches of chain and another wrecker to retrieve everything. Seems like wheelin' with your buddies in light weight Jeeps could leave you hanging until you find something bigger to pull you out. That is if you get it in beyond what the winch will do. The other problem is it just will not make it between the trees and rocks of the trails in the forests here. Cutting or bashing down that many trees would lead to fines for sure. | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
IT LIVES!! Just got off the phone and the news sounds good so far. He says the motor is running smooth as silk.... he is gonna drive it for a few days and make sure all the bugs are worked out... I like that! Last time I had some work done, they handed me keys without a proper test drive, double check and the car still had issues.... He also said he wanted to put a few miles on it before he re-gears it... seems to think I wont be able to go up the road to fast with the 31's and 4.56 gears in it and wants to make sure I don't blow it up before I get home | ||
| Etennuly |
Good plan! Run it easy cruising. Ya won't want to crank it up to 70 and hold it there! I would run secondary roads.....keep it under 55 for a while. | ||
| Damnut |
Presents......... I love presents. Was talking to a friend of mine that works for an aftermarket truck parts company about things that I need to finish my Jeep. Got a call to come down to the shop cause he has a box for me. I just picked this up.   Brandy new all aluminum radiator. I'm going to have to make custom mounts for it but what the hell, it was FREE!! Another step closer....  |
