| Author | Message | ||
     Etennuly |
Well yeah! It is looking great, and professionally done.  | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
Jeep Skool this weekend! http://jeepskool.com/ | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
Got me some new Jeep wheel weights....  | ||
| Etennuly |
You have found one of my little secrets! I run a 12" wide tire on an 8 1/2" rim for that reason. I run them usually in the fifteen pound range off road and haven't had trouble from them yet. How was the Jeepskool? | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
Jeepskool is a blast. I'm looking forward to camping next year. Its just like every other motorcycle event I have went to. People shooting the bull. Helping the guy/gal who is broke down. Talking $hit... and then getting stuck. If they do a long weekend, you will need to bring Jeepzilla up. I keep eyeballing BF Goodrich Mud/terrains in 33x10.5x15 I have 8"x 15" wheels, I don't think I should squeeze 12's on them | ||
| 86129squids |
Hey Mark- went to skool, surely you've got some pics! | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
This is my friend Troy attempting the "Dunk Tank" He made it out with no help, but he did use his winch I wasn't so lucky.... I had to be pulled out   | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
Oil Change? The new "Green" oil container  | ||
| Fast1075 |
Mark, go ahead and get a set of 12.5 x 33 TSL Swampers and be done with it. They will work fine on your wheels and are amazing in mud. The only tire better in mud, period is the Bogger...but you would need a drivetrain upgrade unless you drive gently and are willing to use the winch a lot...the problem won't be with the tires, it will be with the strenght of the drivetrain. If you kill that D-35 axle, don't even bother with modding it...put in an 8.8 Xploder axle. They are very tough in a TJ size rig with up to 36" tires. The D-30 front's weakness is a weak case that flexes. A good truss will help. It has bigger/better u-joints than a standard D-44. Find Pirate 4 x 4 on the interwebz..the guys there have built and broke every conceivable combination. | ||
| Etennuly |
 OH YOU GOT IT BAD!!! Yes I mounted my 38"x12.5x15 on that same 8" to 8.5" rim. They work well and you won't find wood and rocks stuffed in the beads like that. My previous tires were 33"x12.5x15" on 8" wheels, just like yours. It does sound like a fun event. Did that mud hole stink? | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
Did that mud hole stink??? Why yes it did! I have been to the car wash twice for a power washing... and then I used my Harry home owner power washer just to get most of the stank off. I still have sand coming out of the holes in the frame and every where else... I changed the oil last night... big dent on the oil pan its all fun it uses oil like a mofo when I go wheeling for some reason Gonna need a rebuild or something.... | ||
| Thumper74 |
I'd just throw in a low mileage motor or a stroker and be done. Most of the time, rebuilding it's worth the work, unless you have serious connections. A 4.6L or 4.9L stroker could be fun. Need any help? | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
Do I need help? You have to ask? LOL | ||
| Fast1075 |
If you are going to fiddle with the motor...THE high performance Jeep motor specialist is HESCO. They have ALL the goodies.  | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
I don't need high performance.... I just like to poke along and get a laugh out what this thing can climb over... I just need a good gear | ||
| Damnut |
http://www.mountainoffroad.com/_e/Ford_8_8_rear_ax le_Install_Kit/product/98700/98700_Ford_8_8_Axle_S wap_Kit_for_1997_2006_TJ.htm Here ya go. 8.8 rear end install kit for your TJ. I used their YJ install kit to put the 8.8 in my Jeep build along with the explorer engine. Check out M.O.R.E.'s other products, pretty nice stuff. | ||
| Thumper74 |
I know you need help... I was wondering if you need help with a motor swap. A buddy has a hesco 4.6 and loves it. | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
I don't think I'm ready to give up on the 4.0 I have. I'm going to pull the plugs and see what they have to tell me. I need to see how long I can make it last and just fix things as they break. Thanks for the offer, I'll keep it in mind | ||
| Damnut |
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=45309 All you need to know. Don't dick with your 6 when the time comes, go V8. I've owned some sort of a jeep for over 15 years and I'm sure verne has owned one longer, go V8 if you upgrade your powerplant. You can stick a hemi in there too.  | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
I keep looking at my wifes 2001 Durango.... it has a 360....HMMMmmm | ||
| Thumper74 |
I thought she had a Grand Cherokee... I bet if you swap the 4.0L into hers, she wouldn't even notice. It's the perfect crime. | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
She is driving a Grand Cherokee now... but we kept the Durango cause it was/is a good car. Its just not worth anything on trade | ||
| Damnut |
Wolfie........ got a new profile pic. Better than the last one? | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
I like IT!! back on topic Saw a roof rack from a Ford Explorer mounted to a Jeep hardtop on Jeepforum. I'll be headed back to Pick-n-Pull | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
the heep was starting and running rough every now and then.... found out why tonight... #4 spark plug was plugged up with some funk!  | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
The view from the "Dunk Tank" at Jeep Skool  | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
cleaned the last bit of stank mud out of the floor boards last night.... and I should be getting a new ARB cover for the rear end any day now... | ||
| Etennuly |
You watch your temperature gage when wheelin'? They tend to run hot when using a lot of torque climbing and your radiator could be plugged inside and out. That heat can make oil go away. Is the oil breather system (PCV) all there and functional? I would guess that jammed up plug got that way as you took it out of the head. If it were like that when running it would be all wet from fuel fouling. I don't see a lot of oil burning on them, just looking a little rich from probably a lot of low end running. That would be a good thing. Possible heat transfer up the threads from internal heat too. Check the radiator for mud in the fins. If it is plugged up, wet it, let it soak for a while. Wet it again and using just water hose nozzle pressure, get real close in and hose it until water flows freely through it. Check your exhaust for free flow, a plugged converter or muffler can really build cylinder temperatures too. Put a real temperature gage on it. It, and oil pressure are your two most important things to watch for. Factory gages suck. | ||
| Ratbuell |
OK, so here's a near-Jeep question. Got a Dana 60 under the front end of my Diesel Ram. Axle seal is puking gear lube on the inside of the right front tire. Any idea how much of a pain in the ass that is to replace? Special tools? Mark - if you are running hot, I just recently got a pair of all-aluminum radiators from a guy on eBay. I'll look it up if you're interested. Got a 2 row for my Wrangler, and a 3 row for my Cherokee (they were both puking). I need to change it, but my Cherokee is running a 160 thermostat and never even gets close to 180 even sitting in traffic. I run a 180 in the Wrangler and that seems about right for street use. But, if you're doing a lot of wheelin', the 160 may be the way to go. I still have heat, it just won't melt my shoes...and it runs like a champ. 226k and counting! | ||
| Etennuly |
Well If you have removed a 4x4 brake rotor/hub/bearing before it is not a big deal. Once the brake rotor is off remove the dust/backing plate the axle will come out through the spindle. The seal is in the end of the center part of the axle housing. The seal pulls out like any other seal. I do not think the axle shaft will have any clips in the center. Jack the side you are changing about six inches higher than the other side to retain gear oil. Special tools? snap ring pliers and maybe a spanner socket for the hub nuts. If it is not rusted up you should be done in about an hour and a half or so. |
