| Author | Message | ||
     Ratbuell |
Looking for something small and bright, and durable. Trying to figure out some aux lights for the CR, which doesn't have a lot of space due to the pods...and the clubmans...which leads me to the lower fork legs and the thought of MotoLights. My concern is, though, vibration durability for the filaments since they'll be connected to the road, unsprung, as opposed to riding ON the suspension like the rest of the bike. Any thoughts? | ||
| Mr_grumpy |
I'd say that durability of the filaments isn't the only problem, any mounting system strong enough to cope will likely be too heavy. Is there not enough room between the fork legs under the headlight unit? Alternatively, you could go blingy & put strips of led's around the inside of the pod apertures. IKEA do cheap strip leds in 12v in the kitchen lighting section & it's modular too. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Only problem with the LEDs is, I don't want to be seen so much as I want to SEE. Deer suck. I wanna see them coming. And since I'm not talking about track days here, a few extra ounces...I won't really notice it on the street. I'm not that good  | ||
| Rwven |
I ride with several guys who have them, or have mounted cheaper lights similarly. I've heard no complaints about undue blowing of bulbs. They are always working when I see them! | ||
| Nillaice |
what about HID's? | ||
| Ferris_von_bueller |
Trailtech.net I have been running them on my XB for a few years and have had no problems at all 1850 lumen HID http://www.trailtech.net/single_hid_scmr16.html 800 lumen LED http://trailtech.net/single_led_35mm.html | ||
| Ferris_von_bueller |
For offroad bikes http://www.trailtech.net/motorcycle_lights.html | ||
| 86129squids |
Joe- many of the bikes I've seen with Motolights, maybe a majority, have had them mounted on the forks. Maybe at the bottom of the pods? Post pics if/when you come up with a solution... | ||
| Buellmeister57 |
I've been running a set of MotoLights about 6 years. My wife bought them for my Cyclone I had at the time. They are very durable, use a MR16 bulb that is available at Lowes, Home Depot etc. I transfered them to my Uly when I traded bikes, just had to call the company and order new straps to fit the forks. Very pricey in my opinion, probably wouldn't have bought them for myself. I run them day and night. | ||
| Buellish |
I've run them for 4 or 5 years.I had them on my Uly,an S2 and 2 different S2T's. They are very durable mounted on the fork lowers. The problem with running the MR16 from the home supply is that they are a wide beam.For motorcycle use you need a narrow beam,a 9 to 15 degree beam spread to see down the road. I'm running LED's now to keep the draw low since I use heated handlebars and heated gear. | ||
| Ratbuell |
What sort of lighting effectiveness do you get out of the LED's? | ||
| Aesquire |
For deer a wide beam is sometimes best. I'm in serious deer country, to the point that at least twice a year I have to stop and yell at them to get out of the road. ( having a very bright headlight does make them pause sometimes ) Optimal is a fog ( on right side in USA ) and a pencil beam. For years I've put fogs on cars and truck and aimed the right one into the weeds a little bit. I'm running a Luminetics yellow halogen right now.... but more light will be better. | ||
| Fahren |
Here we go again! http://deerwhistle.com/ | ||
| Buellboiler |
Have you looked at the vehicles in the junk yard that have heavy front end damage, deer fur in the bumper/grill, AND have deer whistles? It makes you wonder if they work at all. | ||
| Buellish |
Rat,to be honest I don't ride very often at night.I like the visibility they give me to other vehicles.The Motolights come with MR16 halogens.The LED's are pricey,but were worth it to me to get the draw down on my charging system.People do tell me the LED's are very bright. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Hm. I've used MR16s on my Jeep. Not impressed. Maybe I should pony up and get another set of PIAA 1100x like I have on my S2...pricey, but I can COOK venison where it stands with 'em! edit: I have the 004XT. Sorry. Still great little lights! (Message edited by ratbuell on November 19, 2011) | ||
| Ferris_von_bueller |
Look for the lumens. It's not just about the wattage. The "optics" have a lot to do with the amount of usable light produced. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Fully aware. Used to do concert lighting for a living. Even Lumens aren't even the answer - it's all in the optics. Not "how much", but "where does it focus it". | ||
| Union_man |
I am shopping LED lights right now. I am leaning towards Cree 1600's. The price is right and they look nice. Anyone run Cree 1600 LED's??? http://tinyurl.com/Cree-1600 | ||
| U4euh |
Funny, I just received this from Whitehorse: http://www.whitehorsegear.com/cree-high-intesity-l ed-running-lights | ||
| Mikef5000 |
I've been looking very hard at these LED lights: http://stores.intuitwebsites.com/hstrial-QualiRegR esou/-strse-LED-Lights/Categories.bok They have an impressive following on AdvRider: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=60 7184 EDIT: Just read that you are more concerned about being able to SEE, and less concerned about being SEEN. Just replace your headlight bulbs with 55 watt HID's and be done with it. You'll get significantly more light output than you would with any small fog lights. (Message edited by Mikef5000 on November 23, 2011) | ||
| Buellish |
There were two guys on Cagiva dual sports at Riders Hill Sunday with Cree 1600's. They had good things to say about them. | ||
| Ratbuell |
My worry about the HID's isn't the light output...as noted above, it's the optics in the stock housing that worry me. They're DOT-nazi-approved, so they're "unobtrusive" and "polite". And they suck. A brighter bulb in a crappy reflector still doesn't give more light. It just makes the existing pattern brighter. | ||
| Union_man |
I replaced my bulbs with these... http://tinyurl.com/H7-Ultra-White $27 for both bulbs. They really made a difference. Cheap and easy to install.  I am asking Santa for the Cree 1600's and a dimmer to go with them! | ||
| Sparky |
I got my eye on a Cycle Gear HID Light Kit half-off sale until 1/2/12. Details in ad says it's available in H4, H7, H9 & H11. Is this a good deal and a quality item? Wait, it looks like one kit is only for one bulb and so for two headlights on an 1125R, it would require two of these kits, I guess. Maybe it's not such a good deal? (Message edited by Sparky on November 24, 2011) | ||
| Mikef5000 |
For HID kits it's hard (impossible) to beat ddm tuning http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/DDM-HID-Kit-Slim -Ballast-35W-or-55W Less expensive than the Cycle Gear kits, definitely proven, and you get double the product. | ||
| Ratbuell |
OK, so anyone have actual current draw numbers on a 35w HID versus the stock low beam? Even if I still use the same crappy reflector, I may save some electrons for things like my heated clothes... Also, anybody know if any extra items are needed for the CR? Harnesses? Adaptors? I'll give it a shot, for $40... | ||
| Fahren |
W / 12 = A So 35W= 35/12 = about 3A. | ||
| Dynasport |
I've had a set of Motolights on my Harley for a few years now. They have proven very durable and the customer service has been great. I had one bulb blow and they sent me another free of charge. The housings are metal and are heavier than the plastic alternatives. They definitely make me more visible and help some with my ability to see down the road, but I am sure there are cheaper alternatives. I don't regret them at all, though. I may end up putting a pair on my Uly. They offer an LED bulb for them now, but I haven't tried it. | ||
| Mikef5000 |
Fahren, I think he's looking for actual numbers (as tested), as opposed to the theoretical numbers. Just because the retailer says it's a 35 watt kit doesn't really mean... well.. much of anything. I'm not exactly sure how to measure current draw of the HID's. I can use my DVOM in-line set on amps, but I'm concerned with the spike in power upon starting up the light; I don't want to blow my meter. I may give it a try soon, as I want to know the difference for myself. I'm thinking about going 35w HID on my dual sport in order to open up some available power for heated grips. (Message edited by Mikef5000 on November 26, 2011) | ||
| Ratbuell |
Mike - that's exactly what I'm looking for. Depending on your meter, you should have some overload protection on-board in the form of a fuse... But the more I run the CR in the cold (heated grips or gloves, and heated jacket), the more I realize if I run 2 of the 3...the IP shows lower system voltage. I'm not worried about cooking my stator, but it's apparent to me that the total wattage just isn't there. So, even if HID doesn't "help" my lighting...it will free up watts for aux lights at a later date. | ||
| Tenn10 |
I will be checking out the cycle gear setup. It looks quite small and has a built-in igniter. It would be nice to be able to get it in different color varieties. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Mike, you could always wire in the meter, jumper another wire parallel to the meter, fire it up, then remove the "extra" wire. That would let you measure it without eating the surge. |
