| Author | Message | ||
     Thumper74 |
A fluid change is a good idea, don't forget the mopar friction modifier. Some tight, slow figure eights in an empty lot can 'burnish' the LSD clutches to get rid of some of the chatter | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
I picked up some AMSOIL..... it should do the trick | ||
| Thumper74 |
Does it have a friction modifier built into it? | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
I got the Amsoil 4 OZ. bottle of modifier to add in... just waiting on my Lubelockers to show up | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
Just finished up changing the lube in the rear end... that kinda sounds strange.... any who... no more popping and cracking..  | ||
| Etennuly |
"Popping and cracking in your rear end"..... yep, proper lube will help that.  | ||
| Thumper74 |
Wife is onboard with a 'new' Jeep. I get employee discounts from the Jeep dealer and with incentives, a new 'base' Wrangler will be the price of a nice used 2006... It's either that or an older YJ and pay cash. So the question is, do I want coil or leaf springs? | ||
| Etennuly |
Leafs are easier, home made adaptations work well making them cheap to modify. Coils are better for really long stroking and control but more costly to make happen. So ya gotta ask yourself.....am I a cheap som'gun with good welding and building skills, or do I need to buy things in a kit form and have others install it to make it happen. What kind of trails do you have in mind? I have stayed with leaf springs because I can make them work for what I intend to do with the Jeep. If I had the money to spend on the coil set up that would give me near unlimited suspension travel.....well lets say I am not of mind to spend it on a Jeep at this time. Leaf springs are good all around in mud, sand, hills, some pretty good rocks. Coils are must have for serious rock climbing and can do the other stuff too. If you are going to stay in the 33" or less tire range a four to six inch lift will cover everything you are going to encounter. Two inch lifts are nearly a waste of time. Most stock axle and drive train parts hold up to 33" tires. 35" or larger tires you will need a minimum six inch lift and that will probably have it rubbing in a crossed up bind. And you will find the stock axles unable to keep up, and you will need lower gear sets, better drive shafts. Remember more tire is like a giant lever prying on the mechanical parts.....the bigger the lever.....the more broken parts. If your tread is so aggressive it cannot slip when applying power you will break parts. I guess you have to figure out what you are going to end up doing with it. It is nice to not have payments on it as you watch it sink up to the headlights in a mud hole. That allows what would have been the next payment to buy parts! Mark could chime in on this now that he has got his feet wet! It seems it is never high enough, powerful enough, locked enough. It will drive you nuts to sell yourself short on what it will do with just a little more. This is why I recommend buying used tires and wheels to start with. You can use them for a while and sell them for what you have in them when you are ready to move up. I highly recommend buying or looking up a few magazines on the issue to see what is out there and get an idea of costs. | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
I like my little 2 1/2" lift. I would like 33's and I don't want to go any higher than that on a daily driver. I would rather remove a little sheet metal to accommodate the larger tires if need be. I am amazed at what my Jeep would climb over, go up or drive thru the way its set up now. The only "big" money things I see getting in the near future is a Aussie locker for the front axle and a Smitybuilt 8000 lbs winch. There are a few other things I will be getting like differential covers and flat fenders.... slip yoke eliminator... rear drive shaft...and some retina burning lighting... oh oh oh.. and a belly up skid pan... i got it bad (Message edited by wolfridgerider on September 14, 2011) | ||
| Etennuly |
See how that works? You get a $15,000 Jeep, you modify it with $6,000 and you end up with a $12,000 Jeep. Just awesome!  That is why you have to get $10,000 worth of fun out of it.....so you can come out ahead! Ladies, this is man math, so leave it alone.  | ||
| Thumper74 |
It was kind of rhetorical... You can see my old Cherokee on 33"s a few pages back. My welding fu is weak, but I'm ASE certified and know my way around. I've got an Exploder 8.8 in the garage, rebuilt, waiting for new leaf spring perches. Plus an older high pinion (D44?) that could use rebuilt, but it's there... Oh, and a Ford Lightning 5.8L. Interested in the YJ for the reasons listed for leaf springs since it's snow and mud here. Obviously, I've got the makings for a good drivetrain. I'm currently working a ton, plus I go to school full-time for electrical engineering, so there's a ton to be said for a daily driven Jeep that doesn't need TLC. | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
 Aussie locker for the front axle on order ARB Differential cover on order Lubelocker sitting on the shelf waiting JEEP = CRACK | ||
| Etennuly |
10-4 on the daily driver. That is a tough nut to crack if you get stupid on the trails. My poor ole' CJ hasn't seen actual street duty since before it was mine. Having grown up on dirt bikes, ATCs, VW woods buggies, and cut down Jeep buggies, where I always trailered to the area of intent, I don't desire to drive mine on the street other than to get to the trails. That is what a truck and trailer are for, but mostly I hate wearing down beautiful new dirt knobs on the street. At different times I have done trails with street 4x4s, but somehow I keep hitting the stupid button. "Yeah, I can do that" is one of the dumbest phrases that can be uttered when wheelin! | ||
| Danger_dave |
My first visit to this thread - but now I have a vested interest. We're going to import our good Merc from NZ where it's currently garaged, but we needed a runabout/2nd vehicle in the meantime so we bought a '00 Sport this afternoon. High milage, but a very clean unit inside and under. Doogle likes it too. The new fleet:  | ||
| Fast1075 |
DD, that vehicle will be as reliable as an anvil...with a bit of care, the body will fail before the drivetrain does...300K miles from a well cared for 4.0 is possible. Look up naxja.org for a wealth of info. There are many XJ enthusiasts in Oz. | ||
| Etennuly |
Is that what you would call a "'Roo-bar" on the front? | ||
| Rpm4x4 |
I know someone who has over 340xxx on an xj. That 4.0 is an excellent engine | ||
| Danger_dave |
Yep -a mother of a 'roo bar. | ||
| Danger_dave |
What tyre...errr tire pressures would you run in it? | ||
| Etennuly |
I would read the recommended maximum pressures on the side of the tire. Looks like a 15", probably a 235/70. Likely 35 PSI on the street and 22 to 25 for trail use. For the lower trail pressures I usually mark the tire where the valve stem is to make sure they are not spinning on the rim.  | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
Welcome to Jeepdom Dave! Its worse than motorcycles.... and almost as much fun. Took the flares, front turn signals & marker lights off last night. Installed round turn signals on the front... looking a little retro My flatty fenders should be delivered this Friday. They have a 4 lbs shipping weight  | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
Flatty fender prep has begun...  | ||
| Etennuly |
HACKER!!!  | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
Hey Vern, Do ya like the round turn signals? 3 1/8 hole saw.. POW POW... done | ||
| Etennuly |
I love them! They are a great looking retrofit into the iconic Jeep grille. I wouldn't have them any other way! Very interested to see how the cutting/trimming goes for the flat fender conversion. | ||
| Mr_grumpy |
My first visit to this thread too, I need axle advice. I've got a 97 Grand Cherokee Laredo with the 2.5 VM turbo diesel in it (which needs a head gasket), the rear axle is very noisy & whines a lot it also makes a noise like teeth jumping when you pull away from stop sometimes, it's got about 150 odd thousand miles on it. Is this about average for one of these axles? Reason I ask is that I can get another axle from a breakers quite a bit cheaper than the parts to repair mine. It also clanks & lurches when on a medium to tight lock with the 4wd engaged, I'm guessing it's front UJs. What's your opinions. | ||
| Etennuly |
Sounds like you need to go under for a close inspection. I would put all four corners on jackstands. With the engine off, put the transmission in neutral take a good flashlight under with you. Crawl around and visually inspect each U joint for rust trails and missing parts. Then grip each drive shaft or axle and lightly turn them back and forth to feel for clunkyness or looseness at the U joints and also the front axle U joints in the axle tubes. By this method you can also feel the slop in the gearsets at the front and rear as well as the transfer case. I would suspect you will be seeing and feeling about 1/8 of a turn of the drive shaft before it turns the rear axles. More that that you have a problem. These locking rearends can make a lot of odd noises and jumping chattering feelings if the fluid gets low or too dirty. If you do not have a lot of slop in the rear gears I would suggest changing the gear oil to what ever gear oil is prescribed by the owners manual. Some of the rears have clutches in them that require specific oils. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Lurching in 4x4 is normal. These are PART-TIME systems, not full-time all wheel drive systems. I wouldn't worry about that at all. If you read your manual, it recommends only using 4x4 on slippery surfaces. If the diesel uses the same transfer case as the US spec ZJ's...you could be hearing the transfer case making the whining noise. The jumping-teeth noise is likely u-joints, though. | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
Hi beams quit working... I figure they both can't burn out at the very same time. I replace the switch on the steering column... Hi beams still don't work  I'll pick up a new set of headlights on my way home.... fingers crossed | ||
| Etennuly |
Check your relays. |
