| Author | Message | ||
     Whisperstealth |
Ronold, Thank you very much for your offer! I'm sure for a skilled machinist with the right equipment, this is not a hard thing to do, and once you do one, the next is that much faster / easier. But I'm not skilled or have the tools  I'm shipping my cover to Ian tomorrow, and feel positive that all will turn out well. I'll be sure to let everyone know how it turns out, and will take pics. I'm sure Ian will be taking some pics as well. I want to thank everyone for their help! It feels good to know you guys are here, and I'm happy that a fellow Bueller is able to do the work.  | ||
| Stalker |
I have a case that broke Sunday at road america. Gunut if you want a prototype to work with. I don't think I will have time to mess with it anytime soon. | ||
| Gunut75 |
Well, MY case went today too. 1/4 mile from the shop. Pushed it back, and I will have the primary cover off today. Half of the lip is still there so I can get my measurements. NEVER TELL ME THE ODDS........... If you need one of these fixed, PM me and I'll give you my phone number. I'm going to start working on mine tomorrow morning.  | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
i thought they had a saying about that!? | ||
| Greg_e |
Can you give me a good picture with the cover off before you start the work? What exactly did the clutch feel like when it let go, just so I know the warning signs. Here is what I see in the above picture... You have about 1/8 inch of lip sticking towards the center. And about 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep from the gasket sealing surface. So couldn't you simply put a 1/8 thick sleeve down inside that area and bolt or weld it to the case? Yes I'm still trying to get the concept of how it all fits together without tearing my bike apart to do it. | ||
| Greg_e |
How tight is the ramp inside that cover? That would be the only way my idea would fail and a flat piece of metal would succeed. | ||
| Gunut75 |
When you take the cover off, the spring and retaining nut come out first. Then turn the adjustment screw so the nut comes out, freeing the ball ramp assy. The ball ramp assy slips right out of the pocket in the primary cover. The two lips that the ball ramp sits on are whats breaking. There is very little warning. For mine it was 2 pulls of the clutch. The lever went vague (spring pressure with no feel at all). Done: No clutch. The ball ramp rides in the bore of the cover, with a retaining tooth that fits into the notch in the 10 o'clock position. The physical thickness of the piece that broke off is .09 thick. Mine has beech marks where it had previously cracked. The only way to recreate the surface is to mill .09 out of the casting, and make a plate that recreates it. Nothing can fill the bore. It is occupied by the ball ramp assy. Certainly nothing to weld to. When I'm done with mine, you will never be able to tell anything went wrong, and the part will never fail again. It will look stock. The only way to see if there is a problem is to take the cover and ball ramp off and look. Put your kickstand on a 2x4 and take the cover off. The whole thing is no more complicated than adjusting your clutch. | ||
| Greg_e |
With a 2003 I better check that very soon. What kind of room is there around the back side to put a larger donut around the outside on the back? | ||
| Gunut75 |
It looks like there is about .1 at the most. I'm going to recreate the lip out of stainless steel. Let me see what I can come up with. Maybe a part that someone could install at home without machining. My cover will be off by 7 AM (Message edited by gunut75 on June 07, 2011) | ||
| Whisperstealth |
Gunut, You the man! I had a friend try to convince me to take the cover to a guy about 20 miles away. The guy owns a used/ salvage/repair jap motorcycle shop and did a good job with her Yammaha. She kept saying it would be cheaper. I kept trying to tell her I'd rather spend more money and go with a fellow Bueller, who is a machinist for a living. And that I had already made a commitment to as well. I finally had to just hang up the phone... My bad I know... It's hard to describe to others, but I just feel more comfortable with fellow Buellers when it comes to people touching my bike. Especially if I have to walk away, and can't see the work being done. Anyway, do what you do! And be cool | ||
| Joel9 |
i'm with you Wisperstealth, go Gunut75! looking forward to more progress. | ||
| Gunut75 |
I'll be building the fixture tomorrow morning. I have the primary off of my bike, and I can wiggle my whole clutch assembly enough where starting gear (on the clutch basket) has touched the inside of the case half. I'll post pics tomorrow. I think something else is failing. Any ideas? I'll be continuing my primary fix tomorrow. | ||
| Jramsey |
Clutch (hub)shell bearing is going out. | ||
| Gunut75 |
Very clean inside for 22k miles. Is that bearing the one in plain sight on the front of the clutch basket? Thanks! | ||
| Jramsey |
#28 Its pressed in the shell/basket and rides on the snout on the back side of clutch hub.  | ||
| Gunut75 |
I'll start to look into it this morning. Here are a couple pics of the areas where the sprocket contacted the case half. In the meantime, I'll be making a fixture for the primary covers.......................and a clutch compression tool......   Keep in mind there is absolutely NO metal residue in the fluid that came out, or in any of the casting cavities. Either way. Anyone have a part number for that bearing? In this one, the tooth is pointing at the material removed from the casting web.  | ||
| Debueller |
Is it possible the slop in the clutch shell bearing could have contributed to the broken broken lip? (vibration, stress) And why did the shell bearing fail in the first place? Gunut, have you ever had the milky white primary oil caused by water intrusion? I have several times, but since I discovered how water was getting into my primary, it hasen't happened since. (clutch cable adjuster) I sure would like to know the root cause of these broken lips...... (Message edited by debueller on June 09, 2011) | ||
| Hughlysses |
I sure would like to know the root cause of these broken lips...... ...and if they're more common on certain year models. | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
I read somewhere on here that it can happen on all years. (these little lips can't handle the force) and a improperly (to tight) adjusted clutch ramp/cable makes it worse. But there are exceptions in some cases! | ||
| Gunut75 |
Well, I can wiggle my whole clutch basket assembly. The outer and the inner. I believe Jramsey is right. The bearing is a little wobbly. Looks like I caught it before it became a HUGE problem. I would guess the outer thrust washer is done too (#30). Its gotta come apart, so were gonna find out. Part numbers anyone? If I get done with the covers early enough, I'll pull the primary drive tomorrow. Whisperstealth: your cover arrived today!!!! | ||
| Whisperstealth |
AWESOME! Good News! Faster than I thought I am sorry to see you are going to have to take your clutch out :/ Keeps pouring down sometimes... Made me go and check mine. I tried wiggling the clutch assembly. I was able to shift the assembly a slight amount back and forth. And if I grab either side and push / pull side to side it does "wiggle" a little bit, but not much. Seems pretty solid. Tomorrow I'll look closely to see if there are any wear marks on the case. There was some metal residue on the magnetic drain plug, and some in the the cover. But I have always had a little bit of residue on the drain plug, and thought that was normal. I thought the motor / trans were supposed to be fairly "bulletproof"! Might have to order up a compression tool.... Gunut - Here is the part number for an 09 needle bearing. Do not know if it is the same for an 05: Part Number: 9214 - that's it, no "y"'s or "b"'s. Hope it helps. Hugh has an 07 parts books, if that would be better. Best of luck! | ||
| Jramsey |
"Well, I can wiggle my whole clutch basket assembly. The outer and the inner." If the inner hub has movement it sounds like the hub is loose on the main shaft splines,maybe the hub nut has come loose. | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
needle bearing from an 04 is the same part nr:9214 inner race, needle bearing nr:37892-02 inner trust washer nr:37890-02 outer trust washer nr:37891-02 | ||
| Gunut75 |
Jransey, Ill check that today. That would be sweet if the bolt is only loose. I have never had the milky primary oil. Spose I need to make a clutch tool. | ||
| Jramsey |
No clutch tool needed to check main shaft nut(l/h threads), remove the snap ring off the release plate. Its visible in the your first pic the nut is right behind it. Remove stator nut and remove primary as an assembly then if further disassembly needed the diaphragm spring can be compressed in a arbor press. | ||
| Gunut75 |
The nut is tight. I'll get the primary gearset off today. Looks like around $40 in parts. Won't be able to get them till Fri next week. That sux!!!!! | ||
| Gunut75 |
I was able to get everything apart without removing the stator cover. In the parts diagram above, I do not have number 30 (outer thrust washer)in my bike, and it did not fall out either. I'm guessing that's how the sprocket went back far enough to contact the case. Now I have to wait 5 days for a $20 washer...................DOES ANYBODY HAVE ONE OF THESE OFF THE BIKE SO THEY CAN MEASURE IT FOR ME???? THEN I CAN MAKE A NEW ONE!! PLEASE????? I could be on the road today......... More updates soon! | ||
| Ducxl |
That's what i thought caused my '05 cover to fail.I was annoyed sometimes immediately after a cold start the clutch wouldn't disengage going into 1st. I tightened up the throwout bearing to seated as well as the cable to almost zero play at the lever. The next ride she took it out it broke.$215 Pics of the fixturing/repair process?? | ||
| Gunut75 |
Pics coming monday. | ||
| Whisperstealth |
  Looking forward to them! |
