| Author | Message | ||
     Oldog |
>>>>> WARNING RANT <<<<<< After reading what Informantion is in the shop manual on my 1125 I am attempting to remove the rear wheel, to replace the tire that is gone at 2900 miles  No fastener / wrench sizing in the insturctions, 25ft lbs on the P clamp bolt are we sure on that? BTW what size is it? Oh an be-ing that I am pissing and moaning here, just where the hell is the jacking point, its exact location is not specified in the texts where I could find it, a simple photo would help here... Now I go to wiggle out the caliper to do this you must unbolt it, mine came factory f$cuked up with the hex partialy wrung out thanks been a shit weekend now this.....   | ||
| Metalrabbit |
2900mi on the stock tires? Wow, thats quite an achievement. I searched the 1125 forum for all information. I bought T-REX stands cause it looked like it would be a bitch without them. An jezz, you have a 2008 model,, I have the 09. With stands I think you have to drill&tap the swing arm for "spools" for the rear stand. Its a bit of a struggle by yourself dealing with the brake calipers and wheels. I had helping hands with those parts. One point that neither noticed while puting the front axle back in (without the front fender bolted on) was the trying to thread the axle in. We never noticed the right fork was rotating slightly when screwing it in. In other words it tried to cross thread,, watchout for that,, could save you some major misery! | ||
| Smoke |
muffler is the jackpoint. axle size is 7/8" hex,tool in toolkit, left hand thread. the rear pinch bolt is 3/8"hex or 8mm, i don't remember which. you can wiggle the wheel out of the bike with the rear caliper installed. on the front i leave the fender on to keep the fork tubes lined up. remove caliper bolts, loosen fork pinch bolts, remove axle again left hand thread, line up slots on caliper with front wheel spokes, remove caliper from wheel, remove wheel. it is really not too bad. tim | ||
| Oldog |
muffler is the jack, thanks on that I wondered WHY the caliper had to come off On drilling and tapping that swing arm, I would do so only with the greatest of caution, }2900mi on the stock tires? Wow, thats quite an achievement for me thats staying off the slab, and in lane flicking, I hope that the conti road attacks last longer and clear up the head shake. } | ||
| Toona |
You'll like the Road Attacks, I like mine. XB9er is trying to talk me into swapping my silver XB9 (from my XB12SR) wheels onto my 1125R that have the RA'a already installed (short of turning the rear tire around for opposite side drive belt) | ||
| Firebolt32 |
With stands I think you have to drill&tap the swing arm for "spools" for the rear stand. There should be an adaptor on the stands to where you can pick it up from the swingarm. You could also buy some spools to stick on there through the axle. IMO, I wouldn't drill into the swingarm. | ||
| Birdy |
I have spools on my XB. As they go through the axle you CAN'T use them to lift the bike to pull the rear wheel. My T-Rex can lift the bike by the swing arm so alls good. Break everything loose before you lift the bike and snug things up BUT DON'T tighten everything up until it's back on the ground. Less chance of roll the bike off the stand that way. | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
Pit Bull makes a rear stand with 3 pegs forming a very obtuse triangle on each side. The pegs are designed to hold the swingarm from the bottom AND rear for bikes that have a swingarm mounted at a sharp angle. Works really well for Ulysses and 1125's. I believe that model of stand is listed as fitting a Ducati GT1000. Either way, American Sportbike sells them.  | ||
| Oldog |
I run Road attacks on my X1 and get 6~8K miles out of a rear tire, for this year I need to get miles on "The Pearl" to insure that the systems are up to snuff, prior to warranty expiring I hope that the conti's are up to the brute power of the Hellicon that rear skin is a bear to peal off and on even with the no mar.. Note to self I will review the changer instructions prior to use, its finnesse not force Any one with pitbulls have access issues for the axle pinch bolt? In leu of a pit bull I used a ladder and 2 straps. | ||
| Oldog |
sizes 7/32 for the p-clamp 8mm for the caliper as smoke said 7/8 for the axle hex Pinch bolt is 10 mm hex belt guard T-30 torx pay attention to the anti seize, the OE is copper which is said to be superior ( cant find my tube, so I used lead based (grey)) possible improvements could have been an anti rotation step in the casting for the p clip to hold it in position, and use a HEX bolt that can be turned by box open end wrench the axle is ART! I doubt that I will get an answer there is a hex cast into the arm on the inside both sides that looks like it would retain a bolt head or nut, was the arm intended to be drilled for spools there?? a shield could be made to fit around the pully bearing to help protect the seal thanks all front tire this week wanna roll a set of contis' | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
"Any one with pitbulls have access issues for the axle pinch bolt?" Yes, in the rear. I just loosen the pinch bolt before putting the bike on the stand. There's probably a more ingenious solution but after only one tire change on the Ulysses, that's all I got for now. |
