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Buell Motorcycle Forum » Quick Board » Archive through February 20, 2010 » Dimensions: Buell factory rear stand fixtures........./ « Previous Next »

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Just_ziptab
Posted on Tuesday, February 09, 2010 - 11:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)


Here are the dimensions on the rear stand for X1's and the like.

1" square tubing

Bottom(rear) cross bar.....13.5" (15"should work for XB's)
Forward running leg....10"
Kick up piece...3.5" welded at a 55 angle.
Upright....13"
Hole in upright...1/2".Center line,3/4 inch down.
Upright welded at 6.5" forward of the end of the rear cross bar.
Forward legs welded to the side ends of the rear cross bar.
A gusset could be added,but doesn't seem necessary.
I used a piece of 7/16 bar I had laying around to go thru the axle.
Works terrific for a rear stand,but useless if you need to remove the wheel.
Gotta wonder what the little square lug is for? Lift handle? Certainly doesn't need one. It practically puts the bike up, all by itself..it works that good.
If the stand is too tight against the axle,you should be able to easily spread it a bit for a little windage..........

(Message edited by just_ziptab on February 10, 2010)
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Svh
Posted on Wednesday, February 10, 2010 - 06:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Some of the stands had 1/2-13 x 4" bolts that went into the axles. Mine the threads are smoothed out. Thanks for putting those up.
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Ourdee
Posted on Friday, February 12, 2010 - 09:16 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)



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Ourdee
Posted on Friday, February 12, 2010 - 09:16 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)



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Ourdee
Posted on Friday, February 12, 2010 - 09:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)





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Ourdee
Posted on Friday, February 12, 2010 - 09:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)







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Ourdee
Posted on Friday, February 12, 2010 - 09:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)







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Steve_mackay
Posted on Friday, February 12, 2010 - 06:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I don't have one of these stands, but I'd like to make a few. So I took ourdee's excellent tape measure job, and designed one as close as possible.

Anybody want a bill of materials & dimensions?

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Gunut75
Posted on Friday, February 12, 2010 - 07:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Ill take one Steve. Nice work using the tile floor! Makin' it easy are ya?
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F_skinner
Posted on Friday, February 12, 2010 - 07:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Steve, I would take one or three.

Amazing people on this site.
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Bobbuell1961
Posted on Friday, February 12, 2010 - 08:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Steve, i would like a copy,
Ourdee. thanks, can you tell what the pads are made of?
Zip, thanks for starting this tread
Bob
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Steve_mackay
Posted on Friday, February 12, 2010 - 08:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Pads look like they're made out of teflon.

I'll make up some prints late tonight and post up some PDFs. But I'd like ourdee to double check my dimensions before ya'll start making 'em : )
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Panhead_dan
Posted on Friday, February 12, 2010 - 11:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

pads are UHMW (UMHW)
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Ourdee
Posted on Saturday, February 13, 2010 - 09:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Look at how the big head rivets are counter sunk in the white unobtanium.
They are also notched where they turn the corner on the upward bent foot or toes.
The bolt's shafts are .500" Diameter for the first 1.250" from the head. Then are turned down to approximately 15/16 of an inch from there out. It takes the points off the threads.

Steve, Great job on the translation. I used to weld bike frames in the kitchen so I could use the tiles to square and measure with. Wife said I couldn't do it at the last 2 houses. I really need to get some tanks and start welding again, it calms me down. Not in the house of course.
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Ourdee
Posted on Saturday, February 13, 2010 - 09:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Don't forget the small piece of steel welded on top the cross bar for stamping your name into. It is located to the left side.
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Ustorque
Posted on Saturday, February 13, 2010 - 10:12 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I'll take one too!!!! thanks Steve
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Rmcconnell33
Posted on Saturday, February 13, 2010 - 11:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I'll also take one. Thanks.........
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Panhead_dan
Posted on Saturday, February 13, 2010 - 01:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

The plastic pads are not unubtainium. They are a very common material used on conveyors in the food prossessing industry. It can be bent to shape using a little heat. Normal fastening method is a 1/4" flathead machine screw countersunk to a level just below the surface. Cutting is done like with wood.
en.wikipedia.org/.../Ultra_high_molecular_weight_p olyethylene
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Xbrfirebolt
Posted on Saturday, February 13, 2010 - 01:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I would like one too Steve.
Thank-you
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Steve_mackay
Posted on Saturday, February 13, 2010 - 02:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

You can get the "unobtanium" here.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#8702k64/=5sw1nb
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Tq_freak
Posted on Saturday, February 13, 2010 - 04:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Steve, think you could send me the .stp file will the BOM? I'll pm you my email
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Damnut
Posted on Saturday, February 13, 2010 - 04:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

You can put me on the list.
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Never2late
Posted on Saturday, February 13, 2010 - 06:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

In a pinch I've used plastic cutting boards instead of "unobtanium". You can work it with any handtool and purchase is as close as the local grocery store. Great stand design, I'll add it to my list of projects.
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Steve_mackay
Posted on Sunday, February 14, 2010 - 04:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

With help from ourdee, I've got the design all finished.

But it sounds to me like people think I'm going to make them? No, sorry. I hope I didn't imply that. I figured I'd design one up, for me to make someday, and share the design, complete with detailed prints so any one of you COULD get them done. I'm not a sponsor, and don't really plan to be(I work too much as it is). Which is what it would require to offer these up.

But anyways... Here's the design files

* 2D DXF(R13 Ascii)
* 2D PDF
* 2D DWG(R2000)
* 3D Step(AP203 and AP214)
* 3D Parasolid(R16)

http://cid-f8173b745d8dd3e6.skydrive.live.com/brow se.aspx/Buell%20Rear%20Stand
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Ustorque
Posted on Sunday, February 14, 2010 - 05:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Thanks for the info Steve....just what i was lookin for!!!!
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Steve_mackay
Posted on Sunday, February 14, 2010 - 05:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

BTW, to finish my design, you'll need the square tubing(obviously). I designed it with 1/8" wall.

You'll also need pop-rivets from McMasterCarr
Part #97447A155

The "unobtanium" plastic is listed wrong on my bill of materials(part # wise).
For the sides, you should get by with 1 piece of McMaster Part#8702K67($3.18 per foot)

For the bottom, you can get by with one(and then some!) part#8702K19($.91 a foot), but it's sold in 5' increments!

Instead of bolts, I thought these would be more appropriate.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#98412a215/=5thgsm
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Just_ziptab
Posted on Sunday, February 14, 2010 - 05:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Good idea on the hitch pins. Maybe add a small chain to them so they don't get misplaced.
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Rmcconnell33
Posted on Monday, February 15, 2010 - 07:09 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Thanks Steve......
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Svh
Posted on Monday, February 15, 2010 - 03:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Ourdee's stand is the only one I saw with the plastic on the bottom so I don't know how important those pieces are if someone doesn't want to purchase them. Good work Steve.
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Bobbuell1961
Posted on Monday, February 15, 2010 - 04:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Steve, Thank you
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Ourdee
Posted on Monday, February 15, 2010 - 04:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I think my stand came out of the R&D and may not have been used on the line. Thanks Steve, that's a nice bit of work. Much better than I would have done.
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F_skinner
Posted on Monday, February 15, 2010 - 05:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

RD and Steve, Thanks.
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