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Livnlo
Posted on Sunday, January 28, 2007 - 08:50 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

myself and a fellow badwebber are thinking about sapping wheels. heres the thing we only wanna swap wheels keep our own pullies brakes etc...is there any problems with this or will everything bolt up the same? any help.....thanks guys
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Hammer71
Posted on Sunday, January 28, 2007 - 09:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

All will be fine.
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Tank_bueller
Posted on Sunday, January 28, 2007 - 09:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

You will have to swap the pulleys, but the rotors are the same.

I don't have the manual here, but I believe it recommends new bolts when you R&R the pulley....and don't forget the loctite!

It would help me sleep better to swap brake pads as well, if you do not remove the rotors. The pads are "bedded-in" to the rotor they run on, and may cause minor undesirable effects if used with a different rotor.
Knowing how sensitive the brakes on these beasts can be, I, personally, wouldn't take the chance.

Tank
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Glitch
Posted on Sunday, January 28, 2007 - 10:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Yep, those bolts are one time use.
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Just_ziptab
Posted on Monday, January 29, 2007 - 10:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

"Yep, those bolts are one time use" I wonder why? I've had the pulleys off both of my XB's and they spun right out with a 3/8ths drive impact and showed no damage. I don't think they are stress/stretched from the installation torque. I'm betting it's a liability thing......but alas, I put new ones in anyways. Chrome ones from Daves.............
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Kootenay
Posted on Tuesday, January 30, 2007 - 02:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Just-ziptab, when a fastener is torqued to spec, it stretches and deforms a small amount. This deformation is not readily visible, but if the fastener is loosened then re-torqued to the same value, the second time it will not display the same clamping force.

There's a lot more engineering in the common nut and bolt than most people realize.
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Firebolteric_ma
Posted on Tuesday, January 30, 2007 - 03:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

what if one was to use locktite also? That is what I did for the rear brake rotor. Maybe I should change them?
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Just_ziptab
Posted on Tuesday, January 30, 2007 - 10:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Kootenay, I know, I know......but the bolts are only torqued to 35 ft lbs. On my other hand, I have reused/re torqued the lug nuts on my pickup twice a year, for 9 years at 100 ft lbs. With 150k on it,I have not "lost a wheel" . See what I mean? I still think it's a liability thing, and not an engineering thing. Most cars nowadays have single use head bolts and they definitely are stretched for maximum clamping.I go by the manual,but my logic/common sense makes me ask questions..........
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Kootenay
Posted on Wednesday, January 31, 2007 - 01:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

You're probably right.

There are differences between your wheel lugs and the ZTL bolts, though. The clamping force of the lug nuts isn't critical, as long as it's high--and those lugs are pretty hefty in comparison, too. The ZTL bolts carry spacers and are designed to let the rotor float somewhat AFAIK, and hey, they're threaded into aluminum. You're right, it's quite possibly a legal liability issue, but still, I dunno...for the cost of a few bolts, I'd probably replace mine if I removed the rotor.
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