| Author | Message | ||
     Thin_air |
I just picked one of these SuperGlideSports a month or so ago. Very nimble (for a Harley) and easy to ride. I am considering dumping a ton of cash into the stock 88" motor, building a 113" stroker or possibly getting a Jim's 120". Anyone have a DX? Seems like a good platform to build on. My motor builder says he can get me 120 hp to the rear wheel and about 130 ft. lbs of torque. I wonder if it will stand up on the rear wheel without clutching it like my Buell? Ed | ||
| Bads1 |
Thin air for the money you'd spend building 120hp and staying really reliable. Go get yourself a S&S twin cam 124 and be done with it. My brother did last year and another guy we know and them motors rock. Reliable,WARRANTY, and 130HP out of the box at your tire and its as smooth as glass for a big twin. You'll love it. | ||
| Phat_j |
if your serious, i know where you can get one of them 124 motors........ shoot me a pm. | ||
| Thin_air |
Phat J, pm sent. Ed | ||
| Sarodude |
I wish I had an FXDX. I have an FXD. functionally, you got better suspension front & rear, dual discs up front, and I think a stickier Dunlop. Then there's detail differences & the tach. I know I've ridden the bejeezus outta my FXD. It had been on a number of BRAG rides here in SoCal. Biggest bummer is that cross member under the frame whacking the pavement in a hard lean when you hit a bump. Never ridden an FXDX. I have the rear shocks for it. Trying to find the front suspension..... Oh, the thing about the motor.... Local builders claiming HPx make me nervous. My FXD has a stock motor (exhaust & jetting is a given, right?). I wish I had the time & energy to build a hot rod motor but, for me & this bike, reliability is important. What do you do with your FXDX? -Saro | ||
| Thin_air |
I got it because I always wanted one. When I bought my bagger this is the "other choice". I purchased the bike to beat the shit outta it. Last run I went on there was a club from the bay area called "Loose Nuts" stunting the shit outta DX's. Rolling circle burnouts and stuff. I have my cruiser and my Buell, looking to fill the gap. This bike has 91K+ on the clock so I want to build it one time. My 'local builder' is Carson City HD in Nv. They built my 100+ RWHP ElectraGlide and it has close to 20K mils on it. Oh yea, they built my Buell too! The 113" will be all Screaming Eagle with the exception of Woods gear drive cams. BTW I got the bike "blown up" for 6K$. 2 nights on the lift and a new cam chain and she is a runner. Speaking of that, this 88" motor is a PIG! Im sure it has nothing to do with the mileage......... Saro, do a search on ebay for FXDX. There is a NEW chrome and polished DX front end for 499.00 I though about it but too pretty for my bike. Ed | ||
| Nevrenuf |
we had a 2000 fxd some 6 yrs ago and i couldn't ride from tampa to daytona on it without it killing my back. my 83 fxrt rode alot better when it was still running. one day it will get restored. the cyclone, i've put 3100 miles on in a week and it didn't come close to filling as bad as the fxd. i just hope your fxdx fits you alot better than mine fit me. | ||
| Chrisb |
Be advised Woods cams have a bad noise reputation. Seems like alot of guys pull then just b/c they cant stand the racket they make. I have heard that of 120" Dyna's that have problems with the rear tire staying hook'd to the pavement. | ||
| Mikexlr650 |
fxd here too! i should have gone for the fxdx, the suspension and brakes really let the whole package down on the fxd. at some point i'll pony up for the upgraded suspension hardware, just need to ride one first to confirm if the hd adjustable showa stuff is any good. good luck they really are great bikes. tramp has a background with some high-po dynas, claims they can be made to handle pretty damn well. i'm thinkin something along the lines of the cycle world project 100 bike. | ||
| Thin_air |
Chrisb, Thanks for the info. I am really wondering if I am going overkill with this motor. I have a HTCC 95" motor in my other HD and it runs pretty well. I have to split the cases so I figured I would go with a stroker. Am I barking up the wrong tree? Ed | ||
| Thin_air |
Phat J, pm sent, did not receive anything from you | ||
| Phat_j |
email returned........ been workin all day. | ||
| Joe58 |
I bought my 2000 FXD in September of 1999,and a year later I had the DX suspension and additional front disc added. Later I had the engine built to 95" using mostly Screaming Eagle parts(-99 heads, 258 cams, roller rockers, 7000 rpm module, forged pistons, 45mm Mikuni, 2:1 Supertrapp, race clutch kit, and Woods 340 cfm air filter). It registered 109hp and 105lbft on Simmons Performance DynoJet 250. The bike handles and accelerates well. With the correct seat and pegs the bike is quite comfortable. If you have to split the cases go for the 113" kit. The parts are forged and should last forever. I eventually want to put in a gear drive cam set and heavier duty valve springs in my bike. I don't think that Woods cams should be any louder than any other gear driven cam kits since they all use S&S gear drives. Besides, to me it's not noise it's music. I loved the whirling of the cams, the roar of the SuperTrapps and the rushing of the Dellortos while riding my XR1000. Good luck with your FXDX. Joe | ||
| Thin_air |
Joe58, Thanks for the words of encouragement. Cant wait to get started on it. Ed | ||
| Chrisb |
I would go with a Axtell 107 kit. If you have to split cases. | ||
| Bads1 |
You guys are speaking of building these motors but what did they cast you. | ||
| Thin_air |
about as much as another buell...... | ||
| Bads1 |
Thats why I said the S&S twin cam 124. Its a monster. | ||
| Thin_air |
Bads1, Near as I can tell a S&S 124" is about 7K$. About another Buell... | ||
| Bads1 |
Exactly so why build a motor and risk any unreliability when you can buy it done with room to spare in the HP department with very little work. Great warranty to boot on the motor. | ||
| Joe58 |
All the prices are listed in the H.D./S.E. race catalog. When I had my work done (winter of 2000-01) there was only 1 set of SE heads (#16953-99) available. My heads have no provisions for compression releases and the springs are rated for .580" lift and 6500 rpms. I did bust a starter motor so I replaced it with the H.D. 1.4 starter. Things were easier for me since there wasn't much of a selection of parts at the time. Every component was replaced by those of better quality (e.g. forged parts...) so the engine's longevity wouldn't be compromised. Another option could be the H.D./Jims 120" crate motor and sell your engine. Whatever you do make sure that everything is compatible. Years ago I spoke with Jerry Branch and he said that you really shouldn't try to mix and match parts from different kits. He used the example of his cams. Even though at the time they were manufactured by Andrews to his specs for his heads; he said that he installed the valves in the heads at different values than other manufactures. Good Luck, Joe | ||
| Thin_air |
After much consideration I am going with the following. I got a stock set of TC88A flywheels with 7 miles on them off of ebay for 250$. Going to go with a 95" HTCC cnc ported screaming eagle heads and a set of se 251 cams with a Mikuni HSR45mm carb and a dyna ignition. Should get me reasonable performance without braking the bank. I appreciate everyones input. Thanks, Ed | ||
| Rick_a |
That sounds like a good combination. The peak power won't be too impressive but the torque through the midrange should be awesome. | ||
| Jackbequick |
Sounds like a plan. I got my first FXD this summer (a '97) and it has a bone stock engine. But that seems to be suiting my needs for now. I've been told that a weak point that is likely to up when you start hot rodding them is that they are prone to breaking the inner primary. Do you know, is that really a consideration? Jack | ||
| Rick_a |
It was an issue with only with seriously built Evos. Carlini makes a torque arm drag racers like to use for that reason. It's a brace across the tranny and gearcase. | ||
| Joe58 |
Harley also sold the torque arm as a Screaming Eagle part. Liberty HD/Buell had a few on their discount table a while ago. Also Lombardi's HD on Staten Island had one in a display case. | ||
| Joe58 |
Thin_air what cams do you have in your other bike that has the HTCC CNC heads. I believe HD recommends at least a 257 cam set to take advantage of those heads. You may want to look into a comparable gear drive cam set as you originally planned. Good Luck, Joe | ||
| Thin_air |
Joe58, They are for the heavier bikes running the HTCC ported heads. Ever see a Bagger do a burnout/wheelie? I know the literature suggests a 257 but they had good luck with the 251's on bigger bikes. So far so good. There is a lot to be said for motor configuration and using parts designed to go with each other. This makes me think about ditching the Woods setup and go with the 257's. Its cheaper by several hundred dollars, what do you think? Ed | ||
| Rick_a |
For the "HI-Torque" setups they recommend the 251. It'll have the torque peak at a lower RPM than the 257. I personally prefer that horsepower keeps climbing to redline. (Message edited by Rick_a on January 06, 2007) | ||
| Joe58 |
Thin_Air Eventually I want to replace my 258s with a gear drive cam set. John at Andrews recommended their 59Gs as a replacement for the 258s and their 67Gs for the 257s. I would have to replace my valve springs to run the 59Gs. With your heads this souldn't be a problem. Also according to John; my heads' flow max out at .600 lift. I've spoken to Bob Woods many times and he's very helpful on selecting a cam for your application. I would spend the money for a gear drive set just for the durability issues. Also I have installed the Screaming Eagle primary drive with the automatic primary adjuster. Now at highway speeds the bike really takes off. 3,000 rpms is at an indicated 60 mph. The final drive ratio is lowered from a stock 3.15 to about 3.73. Bob Woods suggest using the old standard ratio of 3.37 (that came on older Evo powered bikes) with alot of his cam grinds. Good Luck, Joe | ||
| Jackbequick |
What do you guys consider to be the redline as far as RPM on a stock 80 inch EVO? And how high do you rev them after the valve and cam work? I went from an M2 (with tach) to a FXD (no tach), it looked to me like 5,000 was a sensible reline for the Dyna. I crunched the numbers to get some speed to RPM numbers in my head and I rarely exceed 3,500-4,000 RPM when accelerating briskly. I'm a "mature" rider, most of the time I'm just chugging around on that lovely 2,500-3,500 RPM torque band. Will the Dyna's pull to 5,000 in 5th? I think that crunches out to like 105 MPH but have not looked for it. Jack | ||
| Bigdaddy |
Jack, 5K is a very safe number IMHO. I've run through tanks of gas @ 4500 (consumed some oil) and didn't hurt any hard parts. Good to see you pop in here. G2 | ||
| Jackbequick |
Hi Greg, Good to see you in here too. I still check the BadWeb about once a day. Lovely place. Jack | ||
| Rick_a |
6200RPM is the rev limit usually set for most performance mods. It keeps piston speeds moderate and accommidates a wide range of mods. Even with just pipes, aircleaner, and rejet/EFI tuning a lot of guys complain that they hit the stock rev limiter too easily. | ||
| Jackbequick |
Does my '97 Dyna have a rev limiter on it? If so, I've never encountered it. It just seems like an unnecessarily mean thing to do to it. :>  Jack | ||
| Joe58 |
I believe it was either 5,200 or 5,700 rpms. The S.E. modules were 6,800 rpms for the Evos and the TC88s are 6,200 and 7,000 rpms. One trick was also to use an XR1000 module because they didn't have a rev limit. | ||
| Rick_a |
6200 RPM is the Evo Big Twin performance rev limit, 6800 RPM modules were meant for Sportsters. '04-'06 Sporty's have 7000 RPM modules, while there's also 8000 RPM for '88-'93. Sure, you could use 'em in certain model/year Big Twins, but why? There's a couple guys at the shop who ride FXR's with Dyna S ignitions and no rev limiters. They are both aggressive riders and I have no idea how they manage to keep their motors together. |
