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Slowride
Posted on Sunday, July 09, 2006 - 03:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Ok,
I picked up a nice X1 for a decent price and went out for a test run after getting it home.
I noticed a considerable shimmy in the front end when coming to a hard stop. I put the x1 up on the center stand and jacked up the front of the bike. I have considerable movement in the front forks (i.e. neck bearings). I also noticed some nice grinding coming form the front wheel hub.

Other than this the bike is in great condition. The question is how hard would it be to replace the neck bearings and front wheel bearings with the typical shade tree mechanic tools.

Should this be a Dealer serviced job?

Thanks

Micah
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Phatkidwit1eye
Posted on Sunday, July 09, 2006 - 05:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

You can do the neck bearings yourself. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/3842/155859.html?1145989618

I would suggest getting the wheel bearings pressed in at a shop, though.
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Slowride
Posted on Monday, July 10, 2006 - 06:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Will the adjustment to the neck bearings fix about an 1/8 inch of play when pushing the front end back n forth, or should I replace the neck bearings....
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Firemanjim
Posted on Monday, July 10, 2006 - 08:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

If there are low miles just adjust them and see,probably will take out your slop.If the bike was beat on--lots of wheelies and stoppies,take them out and check for flat spots,etc.
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Oldog
Posted on Monday, July 10, 2006 - 09:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Neck Bearings are cheap and easy if they are that loose change them they are probably damaged.

I would remove that front wheel and check the bearings, what type is it
PM [ polished billet ]
or cast?

If you have PM's do some home work in the KV before messing with the bearings as the method used replacing them is said to be critical to the wheel longevity

The X1 in the above links has PM wheels

Welcome to the madness.
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Slowride
Posted on Monday, July 10, 2006 - 11:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

thanks...

They are PM wheels

I used the method in the book to tighten the neck bearings and the plays is all the way gone, but they definately have a notch in the steering in either direction I turn it. Like a catch no matter whether I turn left or right.. is it supposed to be that way?

Yeah I have decided to take the wheels off and take them in and get the bearing R&R in both wheels. I picked up the bike on sat. and I really think that the only thing done to the bike in its 12000 miles of life was wheels and oil changes. THe bike looked great in the pics and good in person but I have cleaned years of grime and dirt off this thing.

Ya know I had a 2000 m2 and this x1 seems lighter and more balanced then the m2. It seems like it doesn't have the same pick up. I am wondering if the clutch is maybe slipping... what is the typical where of the stock clutch... I was told the x1 had more hp than the m2, but this one feels like it is maybe slipping in the take off.
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Oldog
Posted on Tuesday, July 11, 2006 - 01:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

SlowRide:
but they definately have a notch in the steering in either direction I turn it.
No the steering head movement should not have a "notch" in it the bearing is ruined
prolly both, R&R, other than holding the bike up the job is not bad at all.

You must replace the inner and outer bits
about 15$ for the set at HD,
the only problem is going to be getting the bottom race off of the tree
its a press fit, I used a propane torch and heated the race, I put the top bolt in the stem, clamped the race in a vice and drove it off, mark the stem relative to the bottom tree as it will likely move, ( IF you have access to a proper press and tools disreguard, this )

I actualy had to use the bottom tree to push the race off [ vice slipped ] once the bottom gets hot it moves easily (thats why I said to mark it) so you can line up the lock slot where it should be.

Slow, the X1 is cammed different and has a lighter crank, you must ride it a little differently, If you think that the clutch is slipping I guess that an inspection is in order, Engine oil changes are easy Gearbox Oil is not so may be it needs to be changed.
On the more HP I think you are talking about 2hp IIRC,

it is a good throw around bike I hope that you can trust your shop to use the proper tools and methods on those PM wheels
Before they Go out I would read up on it

From the porch OlDog...
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Akbuell
Posted on Tuesday, July 11, 2006 - 02:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Slowride:
Since you have the front wheel off anyway.....

The notchiness tells me the bearings are toast. Replace them while the front is off. To get the lower bearing race off of my steering stem, (after the SM procedure didn't work for me) I notched/cut the race with a cutting wheel on the Dremel, then broke the old race w/a cold chisel. Stored the steering stem in the freezer overnight. Lubed the new lower bearing, put 2 short pieces of safety wire through the cage (to serve as handles) and placed it in the oven at 250deg for 20-30 mins. Slipped on and seated w/a minimum of fuss. Hope this helps!!!
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