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Chevysolid
Posted on Monday, October 24, 2005 - 01:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Has anyone used the Kit from this seller?
If so does it work good. For X1.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/buell-x1-license-plate-kit-99-02_W0QQitemZ4584804 601QQcategoryZ35560QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Thanks

(Message edited by chevysolid on October 24, 2005)
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Blackbelt
Posted on Monday, October 24, 2005 - 01:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

it isn't for the entire undertray, just the license plate holder. just FYI
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Chevysolid
Posted on Monday, October 24, 2005 - 01:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

There would be a place to hold the turn signals though?
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Monday, October 24, 2005 - 03:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

There is a metallic bracket under our plastic which holds the turn signal stalks.

If you take the plastic crap out from under there, where will you put your little glovies?

Seriously though, I use my underseat storage all the time.
I am the last tool out there with an unmodified tail section. It is ugly but it's behind me and I just don't see it : )
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Chasespeed
Posted on Monday, October 24, 2005 - 06:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Yeah, you could be like me, remove all teh crap, adn call it good.

Though a couple weeks ago, before I deployed, I made a underseat tray thing....out of aluminium...

Anyway, you can buy that bracket, or bid on that one, but dont bid any higher than 30-40 bucks..thats about what they cost new.

Go with a M2 taillight(has a clear window on teh bottom for the liscence plate), about 10 bucks..

HTH

Chase
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Chevysolid
Posted on Monday, October 24, 2005 - 08:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I contacted him through Ebay and he said he is selling the kits for 15.00
and for whatever they fetch through Ebay.
Sounds like it would be worth it if the "Trunk" is still available.
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Monday, October 24, 2005 - 10:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Hey Chase, you have any pics of your aluminum tray?
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Cowtown
Posted on Tuesday, October 25, 2005 - 12:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Or you can convert your stock trunk.

Steps for converting stock trunk to chopped fender. Read steps and view all photos before cutting!

Cut stock trunk into 3 sections at each bend as shown in photo (3 Piece).
Discard the back section.
Remove all vertical walls from the center section. See photo (Center).
With center section turned over so the bend is facing down, place the back of it against the inside end of the tail frame and trace from the inside with very short pencil. Approximately 7 1/8" x 2" rectangle. Angle cut to meet the front corners of the center section. See photo (Center) and (Fender).
You will need to replace the bolts that hold the seat lock to the tail section with (2) 1 1/2", 6mm x 1.0 pitch bolts. You will also need (2) lock nuts, 1/4" fender washers and 1/4" inside diameter x 1/2" outside diameter nylon spacers 3/16" thick. See photo (Hardware).
Install the 2 bolts, mark and drill 1/4" holes in the center section. Drill (2) 1/4" holes, one on each side, approximately 3/4" from the back and 1" from the sides for turn indicators wires. See photo (Under).
Install the front section to the the tail frame. Put the center section in place, with spacers, but do not install the fender washers and lock nuts. Use masking tape along the seam on the top to hold the the 2 sections together and to keep the epoxy from seeping through. Stand the tail frame on its end and glue the 2 sections together with epoxy from the bottom. Hold the 2 sections in place until the glue sets. Lay the tail frame on a couple of 2x4 boards to lift the tail frame off the floor and hold the front section against the tail frame while the glue is drying.
Drill a 5/8" hole in the front section (rear-left corner) for the seat lock. Use rat tail file to lengthen hole. See photo (Fender), (Under) and (Top).
Install tail frame and fender, enjoy. See photo (Side).
I found I had more control with a hand saw then a jig saw due to the shape of the trunk. Use 100 grit sand paper to smooth over cuts.
If you install a heated O2 sensor, you can use the 2 license plate light wires for the ignition activated current.

3 Piece

Center

Fender

Hardware

Under

Top

Side
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Chasespeed
Posted on Tuesday, October 25, 2005 - 10:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Hey Chase, you have any pics of your aluminum tray?

NOt handy Nate, though, as soon as I get ahold of Joe or Tammy, I will have one of them snap a few pics of it...nothign special, made it while at work, with some spare ally...simple, flat plate, riveted on...

Besides, ya'll from Sheldons, are the only ones who have seen the bike... and wait till I finish it this winter...

(BTW, I am currently deployed)

Chase}
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