| Author | Message | ||
     Mikej  |
yes. | ||
| Finnman  |
Still intermittently backfiring through the carb as I get into the throttle. Turned my buddies head the other day as he was pulling away from me at a stop sign on his loud X1. I spent a couple hours going through old posts and have not really found much more to go with based on what I have done as described below. Adjusted the pilot air screw on the 42mm Mikuni and it has richened the idle mixture. The engine does not ping during accel from a stop and it starts better cold now compared to when I bought it a couple months ago. Though I still need the choke to start it cold, so I should be ok there - not too rich. Adjusted the Mikuni so the accelerator pump comes on sooner with no change. The engine does not hesitate during roll on accel at any speed or RPM range. The plugs look good after riding 250 miles. In my opinion they do not say the engine is running lean nor rich - right where they need to be. I sprayed WD-40 on the gaskets and seal with the engine hot at idle and with RPMs raised to about 1,700 with no change in idle quality. The idle does not hunt. I set the idle up a bit with no change. Old posts say the Forcewinder bowl size does not affect the Mikuni. The exhaust is the stock header pipe with a D&D slip on. Any other thoughts? Thanks. | ||
| 57sporty  |
It sounds like an intake seal leak! Check the carb as well. | ||
| M1combat  |
Aaron - I sent an e-mail to tech at nallinracing.com but I'll ask here too. If anyone else has insight, please feel free. I only directed this at Aaron because I think he has a good deal of experience with the Force pipe. I just installed a Force pipe on my 12R. The bike has a techlusion 1045-ST. I set the first pot by the manual (warm the bike to operating temp, set idle to 1800, add fuel via the first pot until the idle sounds smooth). Upon testing, I found that the bike sputters badly when rolling on the throttle from 2K-3K RPM's. It works great above 3K. It seems to cruise just fine at the problem range, but as soon as I roll on any more than very gently, it sputters badly. At 3K RPM's it's like someone turned a light switch on and the bike REALLY comes to life and runs VERY strong until I shift. It seems to idle alright. It "seems" like it may have begun to foul the plugs during testing. I "think" it's too rich at this range, but I don't want to be mistaking a rich condition for a lean condition and then lean the bike out and cause a meltdown. The symptoms - It sputters very badly from 2K to 3K when rolling on the throttle. It pops quite a bit on deceleration. It does not backfire. It works well from 3K up. If I roll on the throttle very gently through 2K-3K it works but I can tell it seems to be "bogging" a bit. The problem is less drastic when the bike warms up (but is still very much there... When it's warm, I can roll on the throttle a little harder before it starts sputtering). Sputtering in AZ... | ||
| Bollert |
M1Combat, if it were a carb, I would raise the needle a half step. I say it's lean! I'm not familiar with the Techlusion, but is it possible to richen the low end a little? It won't hurt it to richen it up a bit to diagnose. (Message edited by bollert on February 08, 2005) | ||
| M1combat |
I put a few two's together and decided it was rich. The two's were the fact that it "seemed" to be fouling the plugs very slowly and that the cooling fan didn't come on hardly at all after a ride. I turned it down some and the problem mostly disappeared. Now however, it is lean just above 3K. I called NRHS and spoke to a tech support guy. He told me that there is a pretty bad reversion at about 2600 or so RPM's and that was causing the rich condition. He also said that it will lean out just above 3K. It is now doing that. He advised that I tune it the best I can (but that it will always have a bit of a hole just above 3K) and get the baffle. He said that with the baffle, the "street manners" will be noticeably improved. I still have a little tuning to do, but it's WORLDS better than it was. Thanks for the response. | ||
| Bollert |
I'm having my lean condition as I described above, and it is almost identical to yours. I have only ridden in 40 degree weather though lately, so I will wait til I ride in 60+ weather before I freak out too much. Like I said the tech told me the TPS AFV was spot on. | ||
| Captainkirk  |
Finn, Check your VOES. I found one of the wires to mine broken off INSIDE THE POTTING making the bike run like crap every time I'd roll on power...but you couldn't see the broken wire. It's fairly easy to check; unplug the 2-pin molex and gently pull the switch off the vacuum line. Hook an ohmmeter to the two pins, apply suction to the line, and the switch should alternately make/break as you apply suction and relieve it. Easy to check but a dog to troubleshoot! Just a thought..... | ||
| Burrpenick |
Can someone help me get to the idle mixture screw? I'm told the carb will need to be at least loose, but I do not want to drill in the wrong place. Any pics? Thanks, George in tallahassee penick 'at' nettally.com | ||
| Aesquire  |
Building a Buell for the Badland Blast I suggest using a hand ( not electric ) drill right into the plug from below & the plug will spin loose pretty easy. ( don't drill into the screw, the technique in the picture can do that ) Then use a wood screw, or self tapping machine screw & pliers to remove. If you leave the float bowl on, you won't have to clean the carb as much, after. ( doh! ) These guys at Bikernet are famous for having bikes toss gas tanks in the riders lap on mountain roads, building choppers so low the kickstand bracket hits & breaks off BOTS Dots when changing lanes, & having rigid suspensions collapse! So take the advice there with a full salt lick. I also suggest the idle setting & such from the Carb page here. | ||
| Aesquire |
better stuff This link should be more useful. Remember Sportster's use different jetting. They don't Breath near as well as your Cyclone. | ||
| Finnman |
Captainkirk & 57sporty Captainkirk, I poked around at the VOES for a quick minute from the left side and noticed one of the circuit's insulation has been chafed half way through on the choke cable bracket. I'll pop it out of there and get the mighty vac and DMM on it. 57sporty, I ordered a set of manifold seals. The current set is most likely 5 years old and could probably use replacement based on recommendations from everyone. If anyone else has had any other experiences leading to the intake backfire condition, let me know. This site is great! I hope to someday help a fellow Bueller as you all have helped me. | ||
| 57sporty |
If your Voes switch is not sealed or leaking you will have similar problems. Since you found the VOE's problem I would fix that and see if it is a fix before I would pull the manifold to replace seals. Fix the VOES and check the intake seals with WD40 spray around the carb and where the manifold attaches to the head. If no rise in RPM's I would suspect you fixed your problem. | ||
| Finnman |
The VOES held vac and would close when it should per the service manual. I noticed the VOES hose had become hard. I replaced the hose and the engine has not backfired in two rides with in-town conditions where I was on/off the throttle often. Cross your fingers. | ||
| Kenbull |
What size is the quad ring in the petcock? I've been leaking gas out of the petcock (in atmosphere). O-ring grease stop its for awhile, but today was the third time I had to regreased it. Is it metric? | ||
| Kumasan50 |
my 1999 x1 stalled, as i tried to restart, i noticed the fuel pump was not coming on and the check engine light was flashing about three times per second. i pushed the bike to a friends house and found that i did have power to the fuel pump connection. then i pulled the black plug on the ecm. i jumped the #3 to #2(ground) and still no fuel pump. i jumped the pins on the data link to retrieve codes, but it only flashes continuously. i got 4.6 volts on the temperature sensor in sunny hawaii. i swapped tanks with an 02 x1 and that fuel pump didn't come on either. Please help me! | ||
| Oldog |
Ted: Sounds like the pump went south, If you have voltage at the pump connector and the tank is vented the connections are Brown/Yellow | Grey or Pin 3 & Pin 2 on the 2000 model ok there are 2 other wires for the low fuel light specs for the pump 49 psi, 14 v, 70Lph @ 49psi current 3A search Ebay Ebay motors motorcycle parts there is an X1 tank I was looking at thinking about this item as a spare part (for the fuel pump) good luck  One last thought can you "BUG ON TO" the wires from the pump motor for a test you could also have a damaged harness do you have the shop manual?  | ||
| Oldog |
Ted: Cht table x1 volts temp f 00 572 .21 491 .42 410 .62 374 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 4.43 104 4.63 77 4.83 50 unless there is a problem with the wiring this aint too far off  | ||
| Kumasan50 |
thanks oldog, you know i was really thinking it was the pump, but when i plugged into the 02 x1 tank (pump)it still didn't work. i have the manual for the 2002, it looks like pretty much the same wiring. i put the tank back on the 02, and it works fine. is the flashing engine light an indication for a bad fuel pump? maybe i should try the 02 pump again. thanks again. | ||
| 99x1 |
If you have jumped the black ECM connector pin 2 to 3, and the pump doesn't start, and you have swapped tanks (pump), the wiring has to be at fault? The positive 12 volts is fed to the pump constantly (with the key on), and the ECM makes the connection to ground to turn it on (connecting pin 2 to 3 connects the pump ground to chassis ground and should start the pump). Check the ground connection at the rear of the tank on the frame (smaller wire is ignition/EFI ground) and jumper Pin 3(Brn/Yel) direct to chassis instead of Pin 2 (which goes to the above mentioned ground connection). Measure the positive voltage at the pump connector to the chassis. The ECM flashing indicates the problem is not the pump, but possibly a low voltage reaching the ECM? Good Luck! (Message edited by 99X1 on February 21, 2005) | ||
| Kumasan50 |
the ground is good. at the connector i have 12v+ on the grey and the yellow wires, but only around 9v on the brn/yel wire. | ||
| 99x1 |
I'm guessing you are measuring to chassis ground? A 3 volt drop with only meter current seems kind of high through the pump motor. With a paper clip between Pin 2 and 3 on the black ECM connector (with both black and gray connectors off the ECM), my pump motor ran continuously (see jumper from last year) Maybe try sticking a paper clip in the back of the brn/yel connector on the fuel pump and grounding it. If that doesn't work, supply 12 volts to the other wire in the connector.... | ||
| Kumasan50 |
yes, i'm measuring to chassis ground. i did the clip between 2 and 3 but with the gray still connected. should i have removed it? i tried the clip in the connector brn/yel to battery ground, no good. i'm sorry, which wire on the pump side connector should i supply 12v to? | ||
| 99x1 |
The black ECM connector is the outputs (ignition coils, injectors, pump,) and power (+12 and ground) - while the gray connector is the inputs (cam sensor, temp sensors, bas, O2, datalink). Probably not necessary to disconnect the inputs (gray connector), but is safer if you make a mistake while messing with the wiring! I'm not certain which colour wire is actually on the pump - I have a '99 and a 2000 pump and they have different coloured wires on the wiring going from the pump connector to the pump. Since your Engine lamp is flashing, this indicates the ECM is getting power (pin 1 gray wire), which is the same power feed that feeds the pump, coils, injectors, speedo sensor, and BAS. So.. I meant to put +12 volts to the gray wire at the pump (pin D) to ensure the pump would run (with the clip between 2 and 3 providing the ground). Maybe try swapping the ignition and starter relays, (because it's quick and easy) - if the relay contact is poor the power to the ECM/pump/FI could be low. Temporarily, swap the ignition fuse with the light fuse for the same reason. Disconnect the speedo sensor, as it is a common failure and can pull the power down. (Message edited by 99X1 on February 21, 2005) (Message edited by 99X1 on February 21, 2005) | ||
| Kumasan50 |
okay, i'll try that tomorrow. i have to go to work now and the bike is still at my friends house. thank you so much for the help. the internet is awesome! | ||
| Oldog |
99x1 the 01 x1 fuel pump harness color code is as follows A & B low fuel light C & D pump b & C are essentialy grounds Yel/Red pin "A" of fuel pump (hot line thrugh lamp) BlaK pin "B" of fuel pump (line to ground for lamp) BrwN/Yel pin "C" of fuel pump (pin 3 ECM ) from Ground GreY pin "D" of fuel pump (pin 1 ECM) from + 12 just as you indicated Sounds like you have been through this, were there any warnings?  | ||
| Pammy |
Check your bank angle sensor. | ||
| Oldog |
99x1 would you try a direct to battery test of the not sure pump? might be a good idea? current is 3 amps so that could be done through most garden varieties of VOMs, this proves the pump good or bad, next re connect the harnesses and disconect speedo sensor try for fuel pressure In my mind when the pump is proved bad (Or Not) then tne next item can be eliminated Like you I can't rule out a bad harness ( those are no fun ) Ted to read the codes try this, NOTE this is for the 2001 X1 the data terminal connector is under the seat while looking in to the connector retaining clip UP the pins are numbered 1,2,3,4 clockwise orientation with #1 top right. you need 2 72191-94 ( crimp connectors ) and a piece of #18 awg wire Key OFF From the manual (short form) Connect pins 1 & 2 (with the jumper) Key on wait ~ 8 seconds the codes will be sent as a series of flashes the transmission of a code is proceeded by 6 flashes (~3 per sec) called "Intermission" makes more sense than featurette 2 secs of light off the "digits" of the code are 1 second on / 1 second off with 2 seconds light off between digits the rapid flash seprates codes steady rapid flash indicates no codes speedo sensor is located belt drive side just aft of the front pulley ( top ) with a 3 position connector } I hope I'm not "barkin up the wrong tree" | ||
| Kumasan50 |
not barking up the wrong tree at all oldog, i am very thankful for the input. i did follow that procedure from my 02x1 manual, and just keep getting the steady rapid flash. i just had time to stop by and put a battery charger on the bike, i will preform more tests tomorrow after work. i'll keep you all posted. thanks again, ted | ||
| Kumasan50 |
thanks pammy, i'm not too familiar with the bank angle sensor, but i will look into it. ted |
