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Xgecko
Posted on Sunday, October 21, 2001 - 02:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok this is my first experience with a HD/Buell bulletin. I take it it only applies if I have a problem and I'm under warrenty (goodthing for the extended one I guess). I can't just walk in a quote #709 and ask for the new Gasket(s)?
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Bluzm2
Posted on Sunday, October 21, 2001 - 08:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Aaron,
I didn't mean to imply that that you were late, just that I couldn't wait the 2 or 3 weeks to replace my leaker. It was getting pretty bad, I'm still trying to get the oil off the leg of my riding suit.
I tried to wait but the mess was getting too big.
I'm making the call to my dealer tomorrow. I'll post if I get them.

Thanks again for the heads up Aaron, you've got great info sources.

Brad
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Pangalactic
Posted on Sunday, October 21, 2001 - 10:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I pulled off the bad new gasket and replaced it with the original gasket, and lo and behold, no more leak. Let all the oil that had leaked that I couln't get cleaned burn off, and now no more smoke, either. I is happy. for the time being. As it happened, the new cometic) rubber gasket had shifted before i could apply the proper torque (thanks to the genius who desigend the placement for the $%^&*@! hex bolt) and didnt seal. When I pulled it off, i could see the impression of the cap where the gasket had slipped and exactly where the seal was broken. I did the freezer trick on the original, and it fit like a glove.
I am willing to bet that if i had done the same to the cometic gasket, it'd have worked too.

Pang
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Newfie_Buell
Posted on Wednesday, October 24, 2001 - 07:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

After thinking I would make it to 10 000km (6 000m for the guys south of the border) I got off the S1 and when looked down at the engine noticed some oil on the top of the starting motor housing.

9 283 km and my first oil leak. Rocker Box gasket near the left rear corner of the cover. I guess the next thing will be the primary tensioner.

I have read different opinions of the types of gaskets to replace the stock ones with on this website.

Can someone please advise which ones to use? The cold weather is now here and the bike will soon be stored for the winter. Not really enjoying riding in 5 degrees celsius(high 30's) these days. But any ride on the S1 beats any time in the car.

Safe Riding

Bill
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Bluzm2
Posted on Wednesday, October 24, 2001 - 11:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Bill,
I just got off the phone with my dealer, they have the new rocker box gaskets in stock! Have a whole drawer full of the buggers. See Aarons note above and the new part # located at the top of the page.
Price was about $5.00 each.

The parts guy (also a service tech) says the new gaskets are a 1 piece unit. Metal with an anodize type coating on both sides. Said it is very simular to the type used on the TC88. He said the TC88's don't have the same issues as the Evo motor. Sounds like HD actually is trying to resolve a long standing issue.

Aaron, he also said that he used James as replacements with good success. Also said he rarely got return problems using stock paper units as replacements. Surface prep was the key!
Thanks again for the part #'s, I'm stopping on the way home tonight to pick up a set. (Riding season's about over, now I've got some polishing to do!).


Brad
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Newfie_Buell
Posted on Wednesday, October 24, 2001 - 01:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Brad,

I gave my local dealer the above number #16800-84 and he could not find a thing resembling that number. He did give me the price & number for the old paper gasket though.

Can someone please re-check that number and let me know if it is correct.

OR, If you could give me the name of your dealer, with the contact of the parts dept., I would prefer e-mail address, this would be greatly appreciated.

I would probably order and have them shipped.

Thanks,

Bill
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Bluzm2
Posted on Wednesday, October 24, 2001 - 02:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Newfie,

The part # is correct, your dealer probably doesn't have it their system yet. It's VERY new.
I talked to the parts department at St. Paul HD/Buell in St. Paul Minnesota.

They are at 651-738-2168

The guy I talked to said they can do a mail order via email if you want.

parts@stpaulhd.com


Good Luck!

BJ
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Newfie_Buell
Posted on Wednesday, October 24, 2001 - 02:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Brad,

I just e-mailed them, will keep ya posted.

Don't ya just love this BBS. Where else could you get such information about these bikes.

Bill
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Pangalactic
Posted on Thursday, October 25, 2001 - 01:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Newfie, Bluz,

Y'know, I come from up der in der y'know great white nort', don't y'know, but I cert'nly don't miss the ridin' season endin', fer sure, y'know.

Shorts weather in December, 'n all. I figure around then, I'll get transferred to Ottowa, er sumpthin'.

Pang :)
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Jim_M
Posted on Thursday, October 25, 2001 - 11:52 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I've noticed that the S2s seem to take to upgrades fairly well, while there are niggling problems (some worse than others) with the rest of the line up.

I'm wondering if part of that problem is in the flywheel...IIRC, for the 96 S1, they shaved some weight off of the flywheel, making it revvier, but what if that extra few pounds helped to absorb the internal vibrations that seem to be the cause of some of the more serious engine failures. (I'm not talking about anything outside the engine, as a 45 degree twin is going to shake, regardless, but am more interested in the internal workings of the motor...this just hit me yesterday, so forgive me if it has already been addressed)
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Seeeu911
Posted on Wednesday, October 31, 2001 - 10:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

cut and powder coated Cam Cover

Hi guys, I've cut and am now ready to install a Cam Cover and looking at the manual is there another way to just replace the cover without disassembling the entire valve train ?
Does anyone have any tips or expereince ? thanks !
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Seeeu911
Posted on Wednesday, October 31, 2001 - 10:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

cam cvr rear side
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Tim
Posted on Wednesday, October 31, 2001 - 03:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Seeeu911 looks nice! Did you do the primary cover too? What was the approx $ to have it done?
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Seeeu911
Posted on Wednesday, October 31, 2001 - 03:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks ! Yes I did the primary cover also. My bike is a 98 s1w. I recently went with the 99 style swing arm. I had that powder coated black along with the covers, the brackets for Banke rearsets, frame brace, and front motor mount. I'll post some pictures soon.

The cost was $155 for as many parts I could fit into the oven at once. Prep and taping cost a little more plus the 12 pack I gave the guys for doing such a nice job. all total just under $200.00
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Seeeu911
Posted on Wednesday, October 31, 2001 - 03:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

oh yea the covers were take off's I paid $20.00 for from my pals at Orlando HD/Buell.
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Rocketman
Posted on Wednesday, October 31, 2001 - 05:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Donn : The BLACK theme sounds great. So you're nurturing a black beauty eh. That's very fitting :) Good luck.

I can't wait to see it. Anything S1 that breaks the mold is cool. Hurry up and post pics !

Rocket in England
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Ralph
Posted on Wednesday, October 31, 2001 - 06:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I take it that means you didn't fit the cams to the new cover?

bighairyralph
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Aaron
Posted on Wednesday, October 31, 2001 - 06:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Donn: people say they can R&R the cover with the timing cup notch in the 5:00 position ... pesonally I've never tried it and I'd be concerned about the effect on the cam bushings.

Ralph's point is that you really should do some fit checking anyway ... stick your cams into the new cover and make sure they spin freely. The cover aside, you'll have to get the pressure off the cams if you expect to remove and replace them.

Look at it as an opportunity to upgrade to the new rocker box gaskets.

AW
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Seeeu911
Posted on Wednesday, October 31, 2001 - 10:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok, Ralph and Aaron no short cuts then. New gaskets, remove cams.. test, ream ? if necessary ?
I prefer to do my own work but do you guys think this might be touchy to learn on ?
The dealer wants 4 hours to do a R&R. I like to support my pals but $200 seems a bit stiff. Seems to me a fairly decent wrench like me could do it. I just hate learning OJT on MY motor.

Sean, your bike has inspired me, I'll post some pics this week.
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Seeeu911
Posted on Wednesday, October 31, 2001 - 10:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ralph, forgive the inexperienced question: stock cover swap with stock cams. Are the tollerance's really that close that I need to be concerned about matching cams to the cover ?
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Ralph
Posted on Thursday, November 01, 2001 - 12:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Dude, in a nut shell yes, the tolerances are widely varied in the cam and cam cover area.

It is certainly important that the cams fit the cover. I don't know the clearance for the cam bushings off hand, so I'd suggest measuring the ID of your original bushings and compare the replacement. There is definatly room for tolerance stack up in the cam area, both gear and bushing. You really need to check the cams in the cover to be sure there's enough clearance for the gears to spin.

I don't think it's strictly necessary to remove the cams to replace the cover, but I sure would. The valve springs are exerting a pretty stiff load on the cams, which would only be held on one side. It doesn't take that much time to tear it all down and in this case you'll be able to assure yourself that your cams fit well.

If the bushings are loose you'll have loud noises eminating from your bottom end. Not damaging, just what you hear from "old" Sportsters before Harley put so much effort into fitting them. The fix would be new bushings reamed to the correct size. If the fit is to tight, ream them to size or have someone with the right tools take care of it for you.

By the way, it's been mentioned to me before to not powder coat large aluminum pieces because of the expansion coeficient of aluminum. Good luck.... By the way, did your old cover ever leak?

bighairyralph
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Marks3tbillet
Posted on Thursday, November 01, 2001 - 06:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ralph:

I've seen many primary covers powder coated on Big Twins and never saw any bad results.

I don't think the cam cover will be a problem either.
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Seeeu911
Posted on Thursday, November 01, 2001 - 07:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Ralph.

I'll check the manual for spec's on what loose is.

The old primary cover did leak from the shifter shaft seal, the seal it would work its way loose every month or so pissing trans oil everywhere. I lost count of the times I've replaced it. That why I orignally replaced the cover. Powder coat was an afterthought. No leaks ever from the cam side.

Mark, thanks for the reassurance on the powder coating, I did think about the effect and did ask the powder coating shop about heat cycles and the expansion contracction effect on the covers and also how heat would affect the finish of the Powder Coat. The told me that they have many engine customers for race cars and bikes with no one ever reporting any negative side effect. We shall see.
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Jmartz
Posted on Thursday, November 01, 2001 - 08:06 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Seeeu911:

The new "high contact" gear teeth cams do not need fitting. You could get a set of .536 SEII's with the springs and Ti collars (ca. 350$'s). It should also be quieter.
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Seeeu911
Posted on Thursday, November 01, 2001 - 10:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Jose where can I find some more info ? Thanks !
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Ralph
Posted on Thursday, November 01, 2001 - 10:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Mark, just putting out what I've been told.

Donn, glad to hear the powder coater knows what they're doing. I wanted to have some done and was steered away from it. Be sure to post some pictures when you get it all back together. It's gonna look hot! in a black sort of way

bighairyralph
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Seeeu911
Posted on Thursday, November 01, 2001 - 11:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

posted some pictures. what do you think ?
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Jmartz
Posted on Thursday, November 01, 2001 - 11:09 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Seeeu911:

I am just repeating a post from AAron. Circa 1996 HD went to this new tooth design in transmissions. Recenly in 2000 they used it in the pinion gear/cam set. For 2001 all gears in the Sportster engine sport this new design. If you use the SEI or SEII camsets HD never bothered to color code those for size and only produced a single "one size fits most". That is the reason for the rattly valve train Buells have over Sportsters which are somewhat more quiet. If you choose Andrews they will fit a set to the cover.
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Bigblock
Posted on Friday, November 02, 2001 - 08:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Fit the cams in the cover before installing, and if you can spin them by hand, you're o.k.
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José_Quiñones
Posted on Friday, November 02, 2001 - 09:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok, I'm about to try something that I have not seen or heard anybody else doing:

Putting M2 cams in a fuel injected S3.

Why? MIDRANGE, baby!

I have been told by a highly reliable source that the F.I. should not have a problem with it, it should just be a straight cam swap.

Now the question is, can I put the new "high-contact ratio" cams in a '99 engine?

It seems to me that if I get the cams and the pinion gear, I should be ok.

Any other hints or things to look out for?
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