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Hardie42
Posted on Monday, August 27, 2001 - 05:16 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Rempss:

try the following links, 1st ist the S1 Manual online, 2nd is the link for downloading the manual.

Christian
Norderstedt -Germany-

http://www.igd.fhg.de/~nbraun/Buell_Werkstatthandbuch/intro.pdf

http://www.igd.fhg.de/~nbraun/Buell_Werkstatthandbuch/Buell_Werkstatthandbuch.exe
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Skeptic
Posted on Monday, August 27, 2001 - 07:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

oops
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Skeptic
Posted on Monday, August 27, 2001 - 07:34 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Cyclonem2drew:

The EXACT same thing happened to me about a month ago. My left pantleg and shoe were soaked, my rear brake was soaked. I rode home and washed the bike off and couldn't find a leak!

I beleive (but I'm not positive) that it was a front rocker box gasket leak. I can see a place about 1.5" long on the left edge of the front rocker box where there appears to be some seepage.

I have an aftermarket oil breather filter installed, and my theory is that one of the breather hoses became crimped, causing the engine to pressurize and blow the oil out the weakest point.

If your bike is still under warranty (mine isn't), take it in and tell them to fix it.
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Hardie42
Posted on Monday, August 27, 2001 - 08:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Cyclonem2drew & Skeptic :

We had this kind of problem during our ride to the 24h of Oschersleben in Germany: the X1 of a friend showed a lot of oil on the rear tire. We found out that this was primary oil that came out of the gear box vent.
The reason for this was that my friend used a too small tubing from the head-vents to his "oilcan", so the pressure of the crankcase damaged the sealing to the primary and went out over the gearbox-ventilation.

Sorry, but my english is not the best, i hope you understand what i mean.

Christian

Norderstedt - Germany -
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Bull
Posted on Monday, August 27, 2001 - 10:17 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hardie42,
Awesome handbook, thanks for the link... do you know if anyone has a similar one for M2'99?? I know that there is a lot of similarities, but it would be nice to have a printed "matching handbook"...

Cheers and Thanks in advance/ Jojje
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Cyclonem2drew
Posted on Monday, August 27, 2001 - 01:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for the information, guys. I'm going to have to re-check my breather set up to make sure there are no blockages. In any event, the dealer is taking it in today and they hope to have it back to me this week...all under warranty.
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Pangalactic
Posted on Tuesday, August 28, 2001 - 02:09 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Please forgive the following retardo non-gearhead question, but I have heard the phrase "rocker box puked". My question is that, is this referring to a one time purge of oil, or a continuous leak at the head?
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Sportyeric
Posted on Tuesday, August 28, 2001 - 04:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hardie42. How was the problem solved? Did the seal between crankcase and primary have to be replaced or did fixing the breather hose cure it? I may be facing the same issue. Wouldn't crankcase seal leaks pressurizing the tranny cause engine oil to move to the tranny?
I've previously had a rocker gasket begin leaking badly with sustained high revs which seems to be a common problem. Vibration causes the rocker box to shift around and it just rips the paper gasket, according to one of the local shop mechanics. That will cause oil around the front sparkplug.
As I look at this I wonder if last years rocker leak might also be a lack of crankcase breathing rather than vibration??!!
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Hardie42
Posted on Tuesday, August 28, 2001 - 08:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Bull: Sorry, no book for more modern models, but in the link i posted there are the updates for the S1WL included. Its the book that was on the BUELL-Server free for download.

Sportyeric: The Problem was solved by german Buell-technicans during the 24h-race in Oschersleben. (thanks to Buell Germany) My friend will now use a bigger crankcase breather line. The problem occured when he was in higher revs and yes, engine Oil was blown into the primary case (although i don´t know how much oil it was).

Question: how can the rocker box shift from vibrations? If the rocker box is proper fitted it should not shift. - i never had any problems with that.
What kind of gaskets do you use? I use the silicon-treated ones for the rocker boxes.
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Reepicheep
Posted on Tuesday, August 28, 2001 - 09:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Pangalactic...

The Puking can refer to a couple of things. A Buell right of passage (as it was for many years on the sportster as well) is the replacement of the rocker box gaskets.

Follow the pushrod tubes up (those shiny chrome things going up the sides of each cylinder), they terminate inside the rocker box. The rocker box sits on top of the head, which contains the spark plug and the valves. The gasket on the bottom side of the rocker box often fails, sometimes gradually, sometimes all at once, and oil either trickles down your cylinder or sprays out everywhere, depending on how far you are from tools :)

Puking is a different deal. I won't make Blake correct me again by going into TOOO much detail (I am going to put Blake bait elsewhere here today and would rather him spend his time on that :) ), but the volume of air beneath the cylinders (the crankcase) changes significantly during each engine revolution. Also, unburned hydrocarbons will blow by into the crankcase. This pressure must be vented, as you don't want to have to seal your crankcase as tightly as you seal a cylinder head (somewhere between expensive and impossible).

The air coming in and out of the crankcase with each stroke is a kind of oily / unburned hydrocarbon mess. The EPA approved solution is to vent this right back into the engine, which is a non messy solution, but burning all that junk might put carbon deposits on the engine, and the fact that the vent outlet is at a place where there is a high airflow, I wonder if a venturi effect sucks even more stuff out of the vent then normal.

Many here have chosen to reroute the breather lines. Some go to a catchcan with a filter, some just run a filter to a non obvious place and let it drip. The greyish junk that drips out is often referred to as puke, and the catch cans are often called puke cans.
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Sportyeric
Posted on Tuesday, August 28, 2001 - 01:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Here's the story on my tranny oil leak. I went through a liter of oil every 100km (that's a quart every 60 mi.) out of my tranny and onto my back tire, for 600km (360mi) of twisty roads. Good for the concemtration! If the starter gasket or stator plug went, would oil come out at that rate unassisted? or does that volume of leak imply a crankshaft bearing leak. How would I tell besides doing the gasket and trying again? How hard is it to get the crankcase-to-primary seal out?
PS.This came about after a full weekend at full throttle, 4500 to 5500, trying to keep up to a ZRX and some 600s. Sorry, not much Buell content. See Storm Fronts for the reason why. Good fun, but damn!
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Agstrang
Posted on Monday, September 03, 2001 - 05:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hi guys,

Doing battle with front and rear rockerbox leaks on the M2. I've just recvd a set of Cometic gaskets, removed my tank, looks at the rear l/h allen screw on the M2 which sits right below the frame rail and thought, duh? Do I need to lower the engine or is there a special tool required???

I'm not going to mess with it until I hear something. THanks
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Chuck
Posted on Monday, September 03, 2001 - 05:59 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Agstrang --- yes, a "special" tool is required; only you'll have to make it yourself. That I know of, you can't buy a wrench that is "short" enough to fit.

Simply take a "normal" "L" shaped 3/16 allen wrench and use a "table" grinder to shorten the short end. If you don't have a table grinder, you can clamp the wrench in a vise; and use a hand held grinder. I tried to cut a wrench down with a hacksaw, but had no luck. The metal is just too hard. After you're done grinding, you'll probably have to "dress" the edges of the wrench with a sharp file. Anyway, Sears sells a set of 2 wrenches: one short, and one long. I modified both of these --- the short one makes it easier to install a Forcewinder intake system without removing your fuel tank --- but that's another subject

P.S. I have today off; so feel free to call if you have any questions (number in "rider assistance network").
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Bluzm2
Posted on Monday, September 03, 2001 - 09:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Agstrang,

Very nice looking ride! Who makes the faring?

Brad
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Jmartz
Posted on Monday, September 03, 2001 - 09:59 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Jeffb:

After accelerating to redline repeatedly after you while on our way to Viola the rear cylinder head gasket gave out. By the time I got back to Brookfield the bike smelled like cooked oil, it would not run at low speed and could barely be started. I'm glad I made it back, in the rain.
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Jmartz
Posted on Monday, September 03, 2001 - 10:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Saw the coolest catch can at Hal's HD in Milwaukee. It is sold by Chrome Specialties. Has a volume of about 25 cc'c and a tiny K & N filter no more than 3/4 of an inch in diameter. Polished aluminum or chromed. Part # 020550.
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Mikej
Posted on Monday, September 03, 2001 - 10:08 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Jose,
Are you still in town? I might have a spare paper rocker gasket if you want a hand swapping it into your bike today. Let me know. (262) 369-9472. I'm hopping into the shower but could be there in about an hour if you call and give me directions.
MikeJ
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Jmartz
Posted on Monday, September 03, 2001 - 10:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Mike but I'm back home in Atlanta. It was the head gasket that blew though, kind of a big job.

Jose
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Mikej
Posted on Monday, September 03, 2001 - 10:50 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ouch, at least you made it home. It would probably have taken me more than a hour to make it to Atlanta. :)
It was nice to meet you while you were here.

And be carefull, some people have been known to use a head gasket replacement as an excuse to do other work "since the head is already off". Porting/flow job, pistons, and all sorts of expensive fun stuff to do while the head is off.

Take care, and I hope your bike is back on the road soon.
MikeJ.
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Jmartz
Posted on Monday, September 03, 2001 - 11:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Took me 13.5 hours at the speed limit minus the work zones. Northeren states have slower speed limits than southern ones. I have those things you mention already done but, I will need a top end gasket set $70, bead blasting heads and cylinders, valve seals (I have machined guides for non stock ones) and I saw this cute SS head bolt set for $160. So figure circa $400 after I convert to catch can crankcase ventilation.

It never ends! We'll get together again next year. My sister in law lives in brookfield so we go every summer.

Jose
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Agstrang
Posted on Monday, September 03, 2001 - 01:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Chuck,

Thanks for the advice and the offer of support. I'm in Scotland, so will not be calling

Kinda 'duh' obvious when you think of it. I couldn't believe I was going to have to drop the engine. Och well, tonights job becons.
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Agstrang
Posted on Monday, September 03, 2001 - 01:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Bluzm2

It's an Airtech fairing - which I've now removed from the bike as heat build up was getting silly and there was an orchestra 'pinking' under the tank.

Once I've done the rocker covers - again - I've a 'new' top half fairing to fit of which I will post photo's. I think it's actually nicer than the airtech.

One wee mod I did in the short term was grab the front headlamp fairing from a Peugeot Speedfighter scooter and graft it onto the M2. Looked wonderful but was vague above 90mph and the headlamp sucked.
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Pangalactic
Posted on Wednesday, September 05, 2001 - 01:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Okay, I'm replacing my rocker gaskets- and I just removed the rocker arm bolts on my front cyl. On the starboard side, the rocker arms have a "retaining notch", according to the Service manual. When I removed the four bolts, the iones on the port side (the left side, if your sitting on it) bolts came out looking clean and smooth, but the starboard side- the side that has the "retaining notch"- leaves striations that run along about an inch of the shank- in a spiral along it, and an oval shaped striation nead the top of the shank.

Is this normal, or should I replace these bolts? One of them -the rear one-has a very neat and clean looking spiral, where the front one has a rough, almost damaged look to it. I will post pics in a sec, but is this a sign of larger problems?

My rear rocker box is the one that puked, but since I'm installing some Cometic steel gaskets, I figured I better do both; and the front cyl is where I saw this at- I havent got to the rear yet, as I only wanted to do one at a time, for obvious reasons.

Thanks

Pang
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Pangalactic
Posted on Wednesday, September 05, 2001 - 01:27 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

here's the pics I promised:

Bolt1

bolt2
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Pangalactic
Posted on Wednesday, September 05, 2001 - 01:32 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Is this normal wear from the rocker arm, or not?
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Jmartz
Posted on Wednesday, September 05, 2001 - 12:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Panga:

I have removed my rocker boxes several times and my bolts have never looked like that. Check the indentation in rocker shafts also.
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Pangalactic
Posted on Wednesday, September 05, 2001 - 05:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I founda very slight burr in one of the bolt holes, the one with the damaged shank, but the one with the clean spiral, I couldn't see anything wrong with it...??? I filed out the bur that was there, it looks fine now, and I think I'm goona replace the bolts, just to be on the safe side. My gaskets will be here friday, so I can put it back together then. Thanks

Pang
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Axtell
Posted on Wednesday, September 05, 2001 - 08:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

your rocker shaft turned while running and was stopped by the bolt--when you unscrewed the bolt it rubbed the hardened shaft and left that spiral mark---not to worry!!!
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Cyclonemick
Posted on Thursday, September 06, 2001 - 12:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm new to the bbs so hopefully someone out there can help me. I have a 00M2 and was considering putting X1 cams in for a winter project. I have heard I will loose my low end grunt or is the loss of the power (at the low end) on the X1's and etc.. due to fuell emisions.
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Hardie42
Posted on Thursday, September 06, 2001 - 04:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Cyclonemick: as far as i know the loss of low end power is due to the cams. But don´t worry, Buell sells the bikes in Germany only with the hot cams.
If you change cams, look for the right color code (the color indicates the size of the gears).
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